India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (313 page)

Devi Bhawan
This low-slung sandstone residence is a great surprise—a bungalow with free-standing cottages set within a lush, tranquil garden with pool, personal service, and offering unbelievable value. Ask for an air-conditioned semideluxe (bungalow) room (particularly no. 10), or spend a little extra on deluxe unit no. 11, or try booking one of the new rooms (nos. 17–21) in the new pool facing block. All the rooms are clean and neat with simple, casually stylish furnishings—there’s not a hint of plastic anywhere. Completely overhauled in 2007, with the added advantage of air-conditioning, the restaurant spills out onto a neat little lawn surrounded by greenery; you can (and should) dine here. All in all, a very comfortable, relaxing, good-value option, and once seduced by the pool, you may just find yourself extending your stay in Jodhpur.

1 Defence Lab. Rd., Ratanada Circle, Jodhpur 342 011.
0291/251-1067
or 98-2803-5359. Fax 0291/251-2215.
www.devibhawan.com
. [email protected]. 18 units. Rs 1,200 standard/garden double; Rs 1,500 semi-deluxe/bungalow double; Rs 1,800 deluxe double. 10% luxury tax on rooms over Rs 1,200. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar/lounge; doctor-on-call; Internet access (Rs 60/hr.); pool; Wi-Fi free. In room: A/C (most rooms), fan, TV.

Pal Haveli
This heritage haveli is
the
place to stay if you want to be in the real heart of the bustling (and admittedly noisy) town (especially if you want to get those early morning shots of the empty medieval market place); it also has wonderful views of the Fort towering directly in front of it. Once you enter—via a steeply sloped ramp and through massive traditional doors—you can shut out the world. Rooms are a mixed bag so have a look: All are spacious and decorated to enhance the ambience of an earlier era; beds are comfortable, and bathrooms are exquisitely clean. You have a choice of either lake-facing, fort-facing, or heritage room; those arranged around the fountain courtyard tend to be quieter, with a more sophisticated look but rooms 101, 102 (gran’s rooms), 103, 107, and 121 are wonderfully renovated. Meals at the alfresco rooftop restaurant,
Indique,
are accompanied by views of the fort, palace, and lake.

Gulab Sagar, Jodhpur 342 001.
0291/329-3328,
0291/263-8344, or 09350408034.
www.palhaveli.com
. [email protected]. 21 units. Rs 3,000 standard double; Rs 4,000 heritage double; Rs 6,000 suite; Rs 8,000 Historical Suite; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; airport transfers from Rs 400; bar; billiards room; complimentary station pickup; doctor-on-call; room service; village safaris; Internet and Wi-Fi free. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.

Ratan Vilas
Built in 1920 by current owner Brij Raj Singh’s grandfather, this haveli has been painstakingly restored, preserving its traditional character while adding modern comforts—which makes it an excellent option in this price category. Air-conditioned rooms are simple, naturally lit and tastefully styled with antique furniture (which Brij Raj collects) and traditional hand-block-printed curtains and bed sheets (book deluxe room no. 101, 102, or 104, or bag one of the slightly larger units in the new wing). It’s a homey place with old family photographs and souvenirs adorning the walls—no five-star amenities, of course, but the food has home-cooked freshness, service is prompt and personalized, and you can even ask to step into the kitchen for a demonstration of traditional Rajasthani cooking. Sun-worshipers can take advantage of the sun-deck chairs on the terrace and veranda,

Loco Shed Rd., Ratanada, Jodhpur 342 001.
/fax
0291/261-4418.
www.ratanvilas.com
. [email protected]. 21 units. Rs 900 non-A/C double; Rs 1,200 A/C double; Rs 2,000 deluxe double; Rs 2,650 superior double; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining hall; bar; complimentary pickup; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 100/hr.); village jeep safari. In room: A/C, TV.

Umaid Bhawan Palace
Far and away the grandest lodging in Jodhpur, this is also one of the proudest pieces of architecture in the state (see “What to See & Do,” above). Its formidable sense of grandeur is augmented by the galley of turbaned staff who will make you feel like royalty. It has every amenity; even an in-house cinema, which you can reserve (ask the concierge to recommend a big-budget Bollywood DVD). The quality of rooms varies according to what you’re able to spend; this is a good place to indulge if you can afford one of the historical suites—these grand spaces are packed with gorgeous period furniture, lovely artworks, and every possible amenity. Alternatively, ask for a room with a private terrace. Wherever you stay you can wander the vast lawn where Liz Hurley staged her much-publicized wedding to her Indian beau, Arun Nayar, then head for the outdoor pool—a tranquil spot to unwind at the end of the day and, with cocktail in hand, watch the fort light up as the sun descends.