India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (316 page)

After the palace, the other great reason to visit the fort is to check out the panoramas of the city below and the distant desert vistas (although a number of exquisite bird’s-eye views are afforded throughout the palace tour) from various perspectives. There are a number of interesting vantage points (a few are specifically marked), but do be aware that buskers may try to take advantage of you by starting up a tune and then insisting on a donation. Search for the many strategic cannon points which are peppered around the periphery or head straight for the pretty
Jain temples,
which lie west (just ask for directions) The best among these (Rishabnath and Sambhavnath) are open only to non-Jains after 11am. Entry is Rs 30 and you’ll pay Rs 50 to take a camera in, double that for video. No leather is allowed within the temple, and menstruating women are restricted from entering. Constructed between the 14th and 16th centuries, these temples are typical of Jain craftsmanship, with every wall and pillar as well as the ceiling covered with the most intricate relief carvings, and large statues representing the Jain
tirthankaras,
or “Enlightened Ones”—note that you cannot enter the caged sanctuaries in which these sculptures sit, or touch or photograph them. A small library has a collection of rare manuscripts, books, and miniature paintings. Take a breather at
Toap Khana
(Place of Cannon)
for the views, then head north, turning right at some stage to find
Laxminath Temple
(again, just ask). Although the Jain temples are worth a visit to see the intricacy of the carvings, it is the Hindu temple that pulsates with energy, particularly if you get here when worshipers chant their
bhajans,
devotional songs (about 10:30am and at several other times during the day; check with your hotel). From here it’s a short walk back to the main courtyard.

(Note that cars are not allowed to drive up or down the fort, so you’ll need to use an auto-rickshaw or simply take the pleasant walk up its winding cobblestone streets.)

The Jaisalmer Havelis

Haveli
refers to a traditional, ornate Rajasthani “mansion,” with one or more internal courtyards. Steps lead up to an ornate door through which you enter a central courtyard, around which the family apartments are arranged. The facades of the Jaisalmer havelis, built as elsewhere by the town’s wealthy merchants, are unsurpassed for the delicacy of their relief carvings, filigreed windows, and lacelike screens and
jarokhas
(small projecting balconies). A testament to the softness of the sandstone but even more to the skill of the
silavats,
Jaisalmer’s community of stonemasons, these beautiful facades, some of which date back more than 300 years, have been perfectly preserved, thanks largely to the hot, dry climate. You will find them dotted all over town, but the most impressive are Patwon ki Haveli, Salim Singh ki Haveli, and Nathmalji ki Haveli.
Patwon ki Haveli
(Rs 50) actually comprises five ornate houses built by the wealthy Patwon for his five sons between 1800 and 1860. The houses are connected from within (though some are privately owned and not open to the public) and have flat-topped roofs. Inside one of the houses is the
Basant Art Emporium,
where you can pick up truly exquisite handicrafts—but certainly not at bargain prices—collected by the owner from the desert tribes. Patwon ki Haveli is open daily between 10am and 5pm (8:30am–7pm in summer); admission is Rs 50 (cameras extra). South of this, near the fort entrance, is
Salim Singh ki Haveli,
built by a particularly mean-spirited and greedy prime minister who extorted the hell out of the Rajput’s kings’ subjects, and even squeezed the royal family by providing huge loans and then charging exorbitant interest rates. It was apparently once two stories higher, but legend has it that the Rajput king blew away the top floors in a fit of pique, and Salim Singh was later stabbed to death. It’s not necessary that you enter, and it’s not always open (though times advertised are 8am–6pm, up to 7pm in summer). You can’t enter
Nathmalji ki Haveli,
but it’s still worth swinging by to play “spot the difference” with the beautiful facade. The right and left wings look identical at first glance, but they were separately carved by two brothers—the numerous tiny differences can take hours to discover (this is where a guide comes in handy!). It’s on the road to Malka Pol (just ask for directions). Note that many of the havelis now house overpriced handicraft shops; you will have to bargain hard to get the prices down.

Buying a Sense of Place

The beautiful carvings and latticework on the havelis are a source of pride and a show of wealth for the local owners and neighborhoods, as well as being tourist attractions in their own right. Some, however, find their way into modern hotels as stand-alone pieces in spare, cathedral-like lobbies hoping to import some heritage into their ill-designed structures. This is technically illegal but does occur and is likely to increase given the rise in local construction, demand for rooms and unique, authentic design attractions which cannot be easily or cost-efficiently replicated. If you spot some of these “relocations,” have a polite word with the GM of the relevant hotel and ask about its provenance.

Camel Safari

Spending some time in the desert on camelback is touted as one of Jaisalmer’s must-do activities and almost every hotel and innumerable agents offer camel trips in various locations. Don’t book one just outside of town, where there are no dunes but a semi-desert rocky terrain surrounded by wind farm turbines and mobile network base stations. Hardcore travelers may opt to spend a night or even two “camping” out in the desert (some outfitters have semipermanent camps, with en-suite tents), trekking to sites of interest during the day and enjoy meals around bonfires under the stars (pack warm sleepwear for this) but most people choose to spend only a few hours in the desert, usually watching the sun set from
Sam Dunes,
about an hour from town by car. Keep in mind that the popularity of these short trips means you will more than likely be surrounded by noisy travelers in areas that are looking increasingly degraded—with discarded bottles and cigarette packages, and kids cajoling you to buy warm colas and make “donations.” The whole experience can be unbearable if you value solitude and want a unique experience that doesn’t feel like an overhyped tourist trap. If the idea of a communally enjoyed sunset doesn’t ruin the romance for you, you can take a camel ride at sunset from Khuhri, which lies almost 2 hours away by car. The latter is obviously less popular, so it’s not as busy, but it is no longer the unspoiled experience it was 15 years ago.

Should you wish to saddle up with the masses, the most reliable camel safari agent is
Royal Desert Safaris
(Nachana Haveli;
02992/252-538;
[email protected]). Expect an all-inclusive late-afternoon camel ride, with dinner and jeep transfers, to cost Rs 1,050 per head. The camel ride without food and transfers is Rs 250; also offered are overnight packages for camping out in the desert in Swiss cottages (Rs 4,500 double, including rides, entertainment, and meals). Alternatively you can drive out yourself and negotiate directly with one of the camel drivers who line the road with camels—the state of the saddle is a good indication of which one to choose. In any case, your backside is likely to start aching after a while—the best part of the ride might be getting out of the saddle and strolling over a dune or two; or, if you’re feeling adventurous, ask your camel-
wallah
to climb up behind you and take you for a canter.

If you’d rather escape the tedium of done-to-death camel safaris, contact
Shakti Singh
of Nachana Haveli
(see “Where to Stay,” below); he’ll arrange a unique, tailor-made, and totally private
desert experience
that will combine a camel safari with visits to remote villages, perhaps a meal on the dunes, and a delightfully intimate knowledge of the environment. Shakti, the unassuming son of a maharaja, lived in the desert for 2 years getting to grips with a way of life most sophisticated urbanites could hardly conceive. He’s knowledgeable about the flora and fauna that you come across as you traverse the dunes; although young and modest, he knows the region better than the multitude of “professionals” offering camel safaris.

WHERE TO STAY

Jaisalmer offers three general choices: Stay inside the fort, stay in the town that sprawls at its base, or head out into the desert and stay at one of the “resorts” or tented camps a few minutes’ drive from the town itself, built where there is space for such luxuries as swimming pools and gardens. The best of the latter are Rang Mahal (closest to town), Jaisalmer Gateway Hotel, and Fort Rajwada (all reviewed below). Choices in the town are a mixed bag, but if you’re looking for historic ambience, good food and great atmosphere, nothing beats
Nachana Haveli.
As for staying inside the fort,
there is now such a strong argument against it that we cannot in good faith recommend it. The increase in water usage (mostly due to tourist traffic), which relies on medieval drainage systems, has started to literally pulp the ancient sandstone fort, and clearly the best way to preserve it is to avoid staying in the fort itself (please see box below). And our top overall pick? The new Serai, located deep in the desert, where you can feel the sand between your toes. (An excellent value desert alternative is Moolraj Sagr which has 18 water-cooled tented suites, set in lush gardens with its own
baoli;
03014/207070;
www.jodhanaheritage.com
; Rs 12,500 double, plus 10% taxes, including all meals.)