India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (363 page)

The Real Happy Clappies

All the elements of a good, heady get-together conspire to make Rishikesh’s evening
Ganga Aarti
a truly special, spiritually intoxicating experience. Arrive early at the ghat in front of Parmarth Niketan Ashram (leave your shoes at the counter first) and spend time watching the crowds flood in, while orange-robed boys from the ashram usher in VIPs. The whole service, at the edge of the river, is centered on a gigantic white statue of Shiva, who sits cross-legged and serene behind a central flame, around which the holy fire ceremony, or yagna, is performed. A concoction of herbs mixed with ghee (clarified butter) is offered to the fire, accompanied by the chanting of mantras (prayers), said to purify the area where aarti is being performed and to call up the holy vibrations. Try to get a seat as close as possible to the fire ceremony, preferably at a raised elevation so you can clearly watch the intricate rites as well as the crowds.

But things are only just getting started. At an appropriate moment, as the sun starts to set, the ashram’s high guru, His Highness Pujya Swami Chidanand Saraswatiji, descends the broad steps leading down to river’s edge; he arrives like some highly venerated celebrity (which he is), all flowing robes and long, shaggy hair on his head and face. He’ll join in the rites around the fire, and then, taking his place at the microphone, launch into some of the most stirring singing you’ll hear in India, performed with calm and grace. In a beautiful, sublime moment, shot through with an urgent spiritual charge, the crowd, whether sitting or standing, will spontaneously sway and clap in rhythm to the swami’s crystal voice and gentle aura, the movement occasionally building to a passionate frenzy. You are very likely to lose yourself in a moment of bliss, and feel your heart soar as you offer thanks to the life-giving waters of the Ganges. After he has sung, Swami Chidanand philosophizes in Hindi for a while, the kindness in his voice more telling than the words themselves. And then, in a blink, he’ll disappear up the steps and into the ashram, guarded by an entourage of supplicants. Be prepared to devote around 2 hours to the whole experience, and then pick up the CD, Songs for the Soul (Rs 325), featuring the very hymns that have just touched your heart.

Where to Stay & Dine

In a town full of ashrams and
sadhus,
you might very well expect Rishikesh luxury to involve a bed of sharpened nails. Fortunately, you can indulge in the unadulterated luxury of one of the country’s finest (indeed internationally renowned) spa resorts:
Ananda-in-the-Himalayas
(reviewed below), located just outside Rishikesh itself. But for the most unusual and truly lovely place to stay, don’t miss
The
Glasshouse on the Ganges
(reviewed below), which enjoys a remarkable location slap-bang on the edge of the great Ganga; if you book the right room, you can hear the waters roaring by from the comfort of your four-poster bed; in terms of value and location it gets our top recommendation but bear in mind it is about an hour from Rishikesh, and won’t suit those looking for a hotel with action. Also well situated on the river, about 19km (12 miles) from Rishikesh is
Himalayan Hideaway
(
011/2685-2602;
www.hhindia.com
), a lodge owned by the couple who run the Himalayan River Runners outfit (their riverside camp is 2km/1 1⁄4 miles away). Accommodations are in stone cottages set in a forest near the Ganges (an 8-min. walk); all have air-conditioning and decent bathrooms (shower only) done out in stone and tile. Select a river-view room (Rs 4,900 double), gorge on delicious meals, go rafting, or while away the hours watching the river; trips to Rishikesh for sightseeing and the evening Ganga Aarti are easily arranged. If you really want to be near the action (and the noise), the most acceptable choice is
Hotel The Great Ganga
(Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh 249 201;
0135/244-2243;
www.thegreatganga.com
; doubles from Rs 2,790), which is fine if you just need a clean place to sleep and don’t plan on hanging around during the day. Some of the rooms have little terraces that overlook the Ganges, but be aware that you’ll be picking up a lot of traffic noise. Accommodations have marble floors, kitschy fabrics, and very firm mattresses, and the small tiled bathrooms have aging tubs. Do not even consider the suites, which are in a shabby apartment block next door.

Ananda-in-the-Himalayas
At this destination spa, voted one of the best in the world, high-class pampering is the order of the day. The resort’s immaculate, palatial reception rooms are in the restored Viceregal Palace, while a short distance away is a characterless block, although with well-furnished and comfortable rooms, each with a balcony and a terrific view of the Rishikesh Valley. In between lie fabulously landscaped grounds and water features, several villas, each with a private pool, and the Wellness Center offering an overwhelming choice of relaxing, soothing, and restorative treatments provided by a lineup of excellent therapists from all over the world. From the moment you wake (to a steaming cup of honey, lemon, and ginger tea) until you retire to a bath (for which a candle is lit to heat fragrant essential oils) and bed (warmed by a hot-water bottle), you’ll feel extremely nurtured. There are also talks on spirituality, treks, yoga sessions, and escorted excursions to Rishikesh for the evening Ganga Aarti.

The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal 249 175.
01378/22-7500.
Fax 01378/22-7550 or 01378/22-7555.
www.anandaspa.com
. 78 units. $345 deluxe palace-view double; $405 deluxe valley-view double; $550–$860 suite; $980 1-bedroom villa with pool; $1,375 2-bedroom with pool. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 2,400; free w/spa packages, suites and villas); in-house doctor; 6-hole golf course; daily health and relaxation program; Internet (complimentary); jogging track; library; temperature controlled pool; room service; safaris; spa; squash court; trekking; white-water rafting. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player; hair dryer, minibar, pool (only in villas), Wi-Fi (complimentary).

The Glasshouse on the Ganges
Spectacularly situated on the banks of the Ganges, 23km (14 miles) north of Rishikesh, this former garden retreat of the Maharajahs of Tehri Garhwal is thrillingly close to the sacred river; there’s even a little “beach” where you can swim in the clean, refreshing waters. Accommodations are divided into two categories: the main block, fronted by a pillared veranda with relaxing planter’s chairs, or in cottages in the lush gardens of hammock-strung trees and tropical plants (sadly the grounds have grown slightly shabby over the years). The best room (book well in advance!) is Gangeshwari (on the top floor of one of the cottages)—with fantastic views from the terrace, and a sunken tub built right into the rock; there’s also a working fireplace. Alternatively, ask for Jamuna, where simple antique furnishings, a working fireplace, and soft white linen provide superb comfort. Of the cheaper (much smaller) rooms, ask for Gomti or the unit above it. Service standards are not the greatest. Also bear in mind that alcohol is not available.