India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (365 page)

Then set off for Binsar for the best view in motorable Kumaon. Here, in another of the region’s most untouched areas, you can watch the sunrise over Nepal and the sun set on Garhwal. Time allowing, visit the
Jageshwar Temple
complex, and explore
Binsar Sanctuary
(Rs 100 per head, Rs 50 per car) for glimpses of Himalayan wildlife. Overnight at
Kalmatia Sangam,
in Almora (66km/41 miles from Nainital). Although there is little evidence that Almora, with its ramshackle display of concrete and tin, has a 500-year-old history, the town (34km/21 miles southwest of Binsar) does nevertheless attract westerners with its history of spiritual gurus and induction into the hippie circuit. The new or main town is avoidable but do walk through the old town where you will find interesting remnants of local architecture on both sides of a cobbled road; also look out for typical local products like copperware (
Anokhi Lal Hari Kishan,
Karkhana Bazaar;
94-1131-7500
) and stinging nettle (see “Stinging Scarves” box). Alternatively, you could simply sign up for the wonderful 2- to 3-day village walks organized by Shakti (see where to stay below), ending at their gorgeous resort in Leti, after which Corbett would be the ideal end point.

If it is a choice between Nainital and Ranikhet (don’t have to cross Nainital to get to Ranikhet) then head straight for Ranikhet—surrounded by slopes draped with forests of thick pine and deodar and impeccable views of Nanda Devi. It exudes the ambience of a haunted English Gothic township, forever waiting for a cloak of thick mist and the echoes of a long-lost era to descend.

Whether you arrive from Nainital (60km/37 miles away) or Binsar, you’ll first encounter the typically Indian
Sadar Bazaar,
an unappealing town center that is entirely avoidable. Take the turnoff for the
Mall,
and head into the peaceful Cantonment area. Ranikhet is occupied by the army’s Kumaon Regiment, which maintains a strict code that seems to have had a positive impact on the Sleepy Hollow serenity evident here. You’ll encounter an abundance of flagstone colonial buildings topped by tin roofs, many used by the military and in fairly attractive condition, surrounded by hedges and greenery.
Lower Mall Road,
as you head farther south, is good for walks, with only ancient trees for company. Continue on, past 14th-century
Jhula Devi Temple,
and 10km (6 1⁄4 miles) south you’ll come upon the state-run
Chaubatia Orchards,
a great place (though best avoided May–June) for a picnic (ask your hotel to pack one).

From here it’s an easy drive to Corbett.

Stinging Scarves

Hemp bags and shawls—once all the rage—are now passé; the new “in,” manufactured by local Kumaonis, are stoles made from the stinging nettle. The plant is converted into fiber, and the resulting hand-woven stoles are stylish, soft, and ultra-luxurious; and no, they don’t itch. Initiated by a women’s cooperative, you can take a fascinating tour of the
Panchachuli
factory (Pataldevi Industrial Area;
05962/23-6817;
www.panchachuli.com
) which also has a shop attached. Or, if time is of essence, then head for the outlet in Almora market (Mall road;
05962/23-0968;
from Rs 2,000).

Flower Power

En route from Naukuchiatal to Bhowali, make sure you stop at
Fruitage,
which sells apple chutney, apricot halves, and a refreshing rhododendron squash. Some species of rhododendron are believed to have medicinal qualities that cool you down (ideal on a hot day). In addition, the plant’s extracts (or honey produced from its nectar) are thought to alleviate cardiac problems, high blood pressure, and asthma. Connoisseurs of honey should also stop at the sleepy state-run
apiary
in Jeolikot, 17km (11 miles) from Nainital, famous for its pure wildflower honey. Sample unique, naturally occurring honey varieties like mustard, litchi, and eucalyptus.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

The Kumaon Hills are dotted with laid-back, atmospheric accommodations that offer guests either a laid-back but relatively luxurious guest house experience such as Fisherman’s Lodge or the more intimate experience of a homestay: an opportunity to mingle with Indian families who live in the hills—a wonderful reprieve from overcrowded tourist hubs, and a chance to really help the local communities as well. Note, though, that because these are not hotels, hot water in the bathrooms often comes via a geyser, which must be switched on when required (or in buckets carried into your bathroom). Room service is limited, and food cannot be rustled up in minutes, on demand. Other than the options listed below, take a look at Himalayan Lodges (
98-1170-4651;
www.himalayanlodges.com
); the company has a good selection of comfortable homestay type properties throughout the region aimed at the more budget conscious traveler.

Nainital To Mukteshwar

Out of season, a good place to stay in Nainital is the
Palace Belvedere
(
05942/23-7434;
www.welcomheritagehotels.com
). Built in 1897, this former summer palace offers a casual historic ambience with personal, attentive service. Book a lake-facing room (from Rs 6,400 double), which has an enclosed porch-cum-study (no. 19 is particularly large) from where the view of the sun rising over Nainital Lake is simply exquisite; bathrooms also have views of the lake. Other than this, consider
The Naini Retreat
(
05942/23-5105
or -5108;
www.leisurehotels.in
). The gabled bluestone summer retreat of the Maharajah of Pilibhit, situated above Naini Lake, retains much of its charm. Standard (“deluxe”) rooms are neat but a tad cramped (book nos. 304–311; doubles from $150), so it’s best to reserve one of three “garden” units ($210), which share a common balcony, or opt for a lake-facing room ($230). Avoid staying there in the peak season when ghastly outdoor live music all but kills any illusion of being in a retreat. If you are on a budget a comfortable and interesting option is
Balrampur House
(
05942/23-6236
or -9902;
www.balrampurhotels.com
; doubles from Rs 3,166), once the summer home of the Maharaja of Balrampur and now a heritage hotel run by his descendant Jayendra Pratap Singh.