India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (368 page)

Ramgarh (Malla), Kumaon Hills, Nainital District 263 137.
05942/28-1156
or -1137. Reservations: Neemrana Hotels Pvt. Ltd., A-58 Nizamuddin E., New Delhi 110 013.
011/2461-6145,
-8962, or -5214. Fax 011/2462-1112.
www.neemranahotels.com
. 11 units (with showers). Rs 1,500–Rs 4,500 Old Bungalow; Rs 3,750–Rs 5,000 Writers’ Bungalow; Rs 2,400–Rs 3,500 Vista Bungalow; Rs 4,750–Rs 6,000 Rose Cottage; Rs 3,000–Rs 6,000 Ashok Vatika. Rates vary according to season. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V accepted at main office.
Amenities:
Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 2,500 from Pantnagar); doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 100/hr); river rafting; trekking; yoga.

Sitla Estate
This is a wonderful place to unwind, spot rare birds, and explore the Kumaon forests. Facilities are a bit rustic but the stunning views of Himalayan peaks from your window more than make up for it. Deluxe rooms are lovely, with bay windows that allow you to sip tea and enjoy the sunrise from your bed. Vikram Maira, the genial owner-host, can suggest the best trails to take through dense forests, but just walking around the 16 hectares (39 acres) of orchards and organic gardens is a cleansing experience. Since Vikram is the head chef, spontaneous local counselor, and organizer of treks, river rafting, and jeep safaris, make sure you plan your next day with him the night before. And yes, he does cook up lip-smacking meals—his mulberry crumble is legendary. With farm animals and ponies around, there’s plenty to keep kids occupied.

P.O. Mukteshwar, District Nainital 263 138.
05942/28-6330
or -6030.
www.sitlaestate.net
. 7 units (with showers). Rs 4,000 regular double; Rs 4,700 deluxe double; Rs 5,500 suite. Rates include all meals, tea, and coffee. Taxes extra. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Dining hall; railway transfers (Rs 900 to/from Kathgodam); adventure activities/rafting; doctor-on-call; picnic lunch. In room: Sawdust heater.

Binsar & Almora Surrounds

Best option near Almora is the wonderful Kalmatia Sangam (reviewed below), on the road to Kasardevi Temple. Nature lovers on a strict budget might want to look at the
Forest Resthouse.
Located high on the hill within Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, it’s characterized by long, musty rooms, high ceilings, old-fashioned furnishings, a lack of electricity, and reasonable room rates (Rs 1,400/night). The rest house is looked after by a
chowkidar
(caretaker), who may even prepare meals for you if you bring your own supplies. Book a room through the DFO,
Almora Forest Office
(
05947/25-1489;
http://almora.nic.in
). Also near Almora, within a forest, the
Deodars
(Papparsalle;
05962/23-3025;
[email protected]) is a family run lodging offering one of the best budget options, with just three guest rooms in an old stone cottage; solitude is guaranteed for just Rs 4,000 double, including all meals. Guest rooms have fireplaces, and one unit has a bathtub.

Our top pick for the region is however the unbeatable
360° at Leti
(reviewed below), which although still a good deal farther than Almora (5 hr. by road), is an absolute must—but it doesn’t come cheap.

Kalmatia Sangam
You won’t find fancy amenities in any of the resort’s nine cottage rooms, but each oozes charm and most feature lovely views. Eagle’s Nest is the largest of the rooms, with the best mountain views and overlooking the brightly lit valley at night. (Note the two “category 3” cottages are rather inconveniently located and come with no views.) Food is good and wholesome; alcohol is not available but you’re free to bring your own. Though you can wander around on your own, owners Geeta and Dieter Reeb also conduct fascinating guided walks—including a great village walk, which allows guests to observe the local architecture and interact with locals. Everything about Kalmatia is geared toward de-stressing, so if walking isn’t your thing, get yourself a glass of rhododendron squash and retire to the library, or book a treatment with the resident reflexologist. For the higher price (compared with other Kumaon properties), you are assured utmost privacy, personalized attention, and serenity.

Kalimat Estate, Post Bag 002, Almora 263 601.
/fax 05962/23-1572.
www.kalmatia-sangam.com
. Reservations: Kalmatia Sangam Travels Pvt. Ltd., c/o Triage Overseas, Mr. Basu or Mr. Khanduri, B-11, Gulmohar Park, New Delhi 110 049. 9 units. Rs 6,900 category 3 double; Rs 9,300 category 2 double; Rs 11,000 category 1 double. Rs 3,200 extra bed. These rates include breakfast; all-meal inclusive packages available. MC, V. Full advance payment required for reservation confirmation. Amenities: Restaurant; railway transfer (Rs 2,250); aromatherapy; Ayurvedic diet advice; bonfire; doctor-on-call; library; picnic lunches; reflexology; room service; guided walks; yoga. In room: Fan, wood-burning stove.