India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (369 page)

360° at Leti
A heady mix of local culture, pure Himalayan air and plenty of exercise, not to mention added incentives like eco-conscious and sustainable tourism (which got them the Highly Commended tag by Virgin Holidays Responsible Tourism Awards), make the Shakti Tours offering in Kumaon one of a kind. Walks start from Almora, with three villages on offer. Accompanied by an English-speaking escort, guide and porter (inducted from local villages), you wind your way through hamlets, terraced fields and forests, leading eventually to a spruced-up village house, comfortable but not robbed of its traditional feel. The walks are a prelude to a 3-hour trudge (those with vertigo will need support and preferably horse blinkers!) which leads to 360°—where what greets you is quiet, tasteful simplicity, understated luxury, and views, views, views! Four stone cottages built with Burmese teak and double-paned glass overlook strategic points of the deep plunging valleys and the distant glaciers. Rooms come with wood-burning stoves, Pashmina shawls made by local women, “snoozer” mattresses, superbly located desks, which will compel you to write your first novel, and porches with a pit for a fire, ideal for evening drinks or even dinner under the stars. But for all good things, there is a heavy price to pay, which ensures the exclusivity that this little mountain-top paradise offers.

Shakti Uttaranchal Tours Pvt Ltd, Near Kalimath Estate, Kasardevi, Almora 263601.
124/456-3899.
www.shaktihimalaya.com
. Reservations (no walk-ins allowed): Shakti Uttaranchal Tours Pvt Ltd, 903-904, Vatika City Point, Sector 25, MG Road, Gurgaon 122002;
[email protected]
. Village Walks: $1,034 per person for 3 nights. 360° Leti (4 units): $1,755 per person for a minimum 3-night stay. Discounts available for children under 16 and groups of 4-6. Rates for both include private guides, porterage, meals/drinks, room, hiking, laundry, tips. For Village Walks, transfers to/from railway station included. For 360° Leti, transfers from Almora region included. Amenities: Dining, bar, bonfire; library; picnic lunches; guided walks; yoga and meditation by prior arrangement. In room: Wood-burning stove.

Ranikhet

This area hasn’t really taken off like the rest of Kumaon in terms of accommodation standards—for luxury you’ll need to head to Nainital or Rishikesh, but lodgings are by and large adequate in a simple sort of way. An attractive alternative to the hotel reviewed below is
Chevron Rosemount
(
05966/22-1391;
www.chevronhotels.com
), a century-old, two-story colonial bungalow in a forest clearing that’s showing its age but in a charmingly dilapidated way. In particular, reserve room no. 202, the Nirvana Suite
(Rs 5,000): Unwind on the armchairs, chaise longue, or large comfortable bed; the large bathroom has plenty of natural light. There’s tremendous scope for birders in the ravines surrounding the property, and on a clear day you can see the lovely Trisuli range. Another option worth considering is
Holm Farm,
the first bungalow in Ranikhet, with suites from Rs 4,000, and even cheaper Swiss huts. This is ideal for those looking for relaxed, old-world atmosphere—though when the place is full, you’ll find tents pitched outside for guests (
05966/22-0891
or 97-5939-5520;
www.holmfarmranikhet.com
); there are also indoor and outdoor activities for children.

West View Hotel
This stone brick colonial mansion—an atmospheric relic of the Raj set in a lovely garden is the most comfortable option in Ranikhet, offering spacious accommodations with carpeted bedrooms, old dark wooden furniture, upholstered armchairs, hard mattresses on big beds, and massive bathrooms with drench showers and natural light. Deluxe guest rooms have working stone fireplaces, half-canopied two-poster beds, and floral blinds and bed frills. Ask for the best room in the house, no. 21, not least for the view. Suites feature four-poster beds and separate lounges—great if you’re traveling with kids but deluxe category is spacious enough. The public lounge is quaint and old-fashioned; the homey dining room with log fire has wallpapered walls decorated with blue-patterned porcelain plates. Note that hot water is only available mornings and evenings. The outdoor cafe is a pleasant spot at which to relax after traipsing around the hills nearby.

Mall Rd., Ranikhet 263 645.
05966/22-0261
or -1075. Fax 05966/22-0396.
www.westviewhotel.com
. [email protected]. Reservations: 115, Pushpanjali, New Delhi 110 092.
011/2237-3389.
Fax 011/2237-2996. 18 units (with showers). Rs 3,111 deluxe double; Rs 4,500 luxury suite; Rs 5,111 family suite. Children 5–12 pay 25%. Rates include breakfast and dinner. Taxes extra. Check for off-season discounts. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant, coffee shop; railway transfer (Rs 1,200); badminton; doctor-on-call; rock climbing; room service table tennis. In room: TV.

3 Corbett National Park