India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (254 page)

Yamuna Kinara Rd. Admission Rs 300. Rs 50 discount with Taj ticket. Keep ticket until visit is over. Daily sunrise–sunset.
Note:
Avoid Fri, when the Taj is closed and entry is half-price for Indian visitors, making the place crowded.

Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri
Built from scratch in 1571 by Akbar in honor of the Sufi saint Salim Chisti, who had predicted the birth of a son (see “The Dargah Sharif & Other Ajmer Gems” in chapter 11), this grand ghost city is carved entirely from red sandstone. It was only inhabited for 14 years, after which—some say because of water shortages—it was totally abandoned. It’s a bizarre experience to wander through these magnificent, architecturally fascinating sandstone arches, courtyards, and buildings. (Try to get here right when it opens, the only time it’s peaceful.) The buildings combine a fine sense of proportion—indicative of Akbar’s Persian ancestry—with strong Hindu and Jain design elements, indicative again of his embracing attitude to the conquered and their faiths. Upon entering, you will see
Diwan-i-Khas,
thought to be a debating chamber, on the right. Facing it is
Ankh Michali,
thought to be the treasury, which has mythical Hindu creatures carved on its stone struts. To the left is large
Parcheesi Court,
where Parcheesi (from which games such as backgammon and ludo were subsequently derived) was played with live pieces: the ladies of the harem. It is said that Akbar learned much about the personalities of his court and enemies by watching how they played, won, and lost. Surrounding the court are, from the left,
Diwan-i-Am,
a large pavilion where public hearings were held; the
Turkish Sultana’s House,
an ornate sandstone pavilion; and
Abdar Khana,
where drinking water and fruit were apparently stored. Walk between the two latter buildings to enter
Akbar’s private quarters.
Facing
Anoop Talao
—the four-quartered pool—are the rooms in which he slept (note the ventilating shaft near his built-in bed) and his personal library with shelves carved into the walls. Also overlooking Parcheesi Court is
Panch Mahal,
the tallest pavilion, where Akbar’s wives could watch the games and enjoy the breeze without being seen. Behind Panch Mahal are the female quarters, including
Maryam’s House
and the
Haram Sara Complex.
The harem leads to
Jodha Bai’s Palace,
a large courtyard surrounded by pavilions—note the green glazed roof tiles. To the east is
Birbal’s House,
a two-story pavilion noted for its carvings; beyond lie the
servants’ cells.
From here you exit to visit
Jama Masjid,
a mosque even more spectacular than the larger one Akbar’s grandson built in Delhi. Set like a glittering pearl amid the towering red-sandstone bastions, punctuated by a grand gateway, is the white marble
dargah
(tomb) of Salim Chisti, which has some of the most beautiful carved screens in India. It attracts pilgrims from all over India, particularly (given the good fortune he brought Akbar) the childless, who make wishes while tying cotton threads onto the screens that surround the tomb.

Again, the services of a good guide are indispensable to a visit here (don’t bother hiring one of the “official” guides at the entrance, however). Also note that if you are moving on to Rajasthan and plan to visit Bharatpur (for its bird sanctuary), Fatehpur Sikri can be visited en route.

37km (23 miles) west of Agra on the road to Bharatpur. No phone. Admission Rs 260 Daily sunrise–sunset.

Itmad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb
Described as a mini-Taj, this is the tomb of Mirza Ghiyath Beg, who served under Akbar and fathered Nur Jahan, the powerful wife of Jahangir who helped promote her father to his position as Lord of the Treasury and enshrined him here in this “bejeweled marble box”—proof of her powerful hold on the purse strings. Also built of translucent white marble, it was the most innovative building of 17th-century India, and marked the transition from the heavy red sandstone so favored by previous Mughal emperors. It no doubt inspired Shah Jahan with its beautiful symmetry and detailing; the
pietra duras
are as delicate as embroidery, and the dense gilding and paintwork feature typical Persian motifs, such as the wine-vase and the dish and cup, much favored by Jahangir at the time. The scale may be far less grand than that of the Taj, but the polychrome geometric ornamentation is more obviously decorative, and given the beauty of the proportions and the intricacy of its inlays and mosaics, it’s amazing how little traffic this tomb sees relative to the Taj. It definitely warrants a short visit, if only to get a sense of how almost generic opulence was to the Mughal court.

Eastern Bank of Yamuna (30 min. from Taj). Admission Rs 110. Rs 10 discount with Taj ticket. Daily sunrise–sunset.

Sikandra (Akbar’s Tomb)
Someone once described the rise and fall of the Mughal empire as rulers who started “as titans and finished as jewelers.” To this end, Akbar’s tomb is a less-elegant version of the bejeweled tombs of his great-granddaughter (or his daughter-in-law’s father), yet more ornate than that of his father Humayun (see “Delhi: The Top Attractions”). The perfect symmetry is typical of Persian architecture, and the scale is huge; the gateway alone, featuring more than 20 panels inlaid with intricate geometric patterning, will stop you in your tracks. Geometric patterning in fact dominates, with relatively few floral designs, as befits the last “titan” ruler. It’s not surprising to hear that the tomb is believed to have been designed by Akbar; the detailing reflects the altogether more restrained lifestyle and masculine personality of this great ruler.

8km (5 miles) from Agra on NH 2.
0562/264-1230.
Admission Rs 110. Rs 10 discount with Taj ticket. Rs 25 video. Daily sunrise–sunset.

WHERE TO STAY

Given that it is one of the most-visited tourist destinations in the world, Agra’s accommodations can be disappointing, no doubt a case of resting on the Taj’s laurels. The big exception is
Amarvilās,
which—even if it means scrimping elsewhere—is worth every cent, not least for its proximity to the Taj and the matchless views.

Within the moderate price category, all located south and southwest (known as the Cantonment) of the Taj, there is incredible price parity; of these only the
Trident
offers good value. The best budget option, conveniently located within Tajganj (where the Taj is located), is the
Hotel Sheela,
reviewed below. (
Note:
Again we urge you to stay at one of the better properties; a bad hotel experience can really spoil the whole romanticism attached to the Taj. Check online for daily price variations, particularly for the Gateway and Trident hotels: You can sometimes get an ultralow bargain rate.).

Very Expensive

Amarvilās
It’s one of the most talked-about hotels in the world and your experience visiting the Taj Mahal and Agra will be enhanced by a thoroughly worthwhile splurge at this extraordinary property. The lobby, bar, and lounge all offer the same surreal views of the Taj, but even those public spaces that don’t offer a monument view are lovely, with large reflecting pools, colonnaded courts, terraced lawns, and pillowed pavilions. By day some of the exteriors look a little bland and in need of the detailing featured in the interior, but at night it’s a pure
Arabian Nights
fantasy, when burning braziers provide a wonderful contrast to the fountains and trickling streams. The rooms are compact but extremely luxurious, showcasing the best-quality Indian craftsmanship available but with every modern amenity. The only significant choice you need make is whether or not to pay extra for a balcony (recommended!). While the hotel scores high points for its understated opulence, it’s the silky smooth service that accompanies your encounter with the Taj that really makes a difference; be sure to make use of the courtesy golf cart rides to just within striking distance of the monument’s East Gate.