India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (324 page)

Shimla,
the state capital, is easily accessed from Delhi by train, preferably via the Punjabi town of
Amritsar,
where the shimmering
Golden Temple
of the Sikhs takes the honors as India’s best cultural attraction. Shimla shouldn’t hold you longer than it takes to get ready to tackle one of the greatest road adventures in Asia—negotiating the ledges, landslides, and hairpin bends of the
Hindustan-Tibet Road
through the remote valleys of Kinnaur, Spiti, and Lahaul. Hidden from the world for most of the year by a cloak of thick, impenetrable snow, these easternmost districts emerge from their wintry slumber to reveal white-capped Himalayan mountains, lush green meadow-valleys dappled with flowers, and Tibetan Buddhist
gompas,
of which
Tabo,
a World Heritage Site, is one of the most spiritually significant destinations in India. Due to limited accessibility (some areas only opened to visitors quite recently and a few sections near the Chinese border require a special permit) and the impassability of the roads, the region—despite an upturn in tourist numbers in the last few years—remains the least visited and most exhilarating part of Himachal Pradesh. You should set aside at least 4 to 5 days to explore the area—stay longer if you want to visit more of its high altitude villages—before landing in
Manali,
a town somewhat enlivened (some say ruined) by its designated role as Himachal Pradesh’s “hippie hot spot” and favorite Indian honeymoon destination. You can either set off on a trek from this popular adventure center, or head west (via Mandi) to the tea-carpeted hills of the westernmost
Kangra Valley
and the hill station of
Dharamsala
—seat of the Tibetan government-in-exile and home to the Dalai Lama.

Another option, but only in summer, is to head north to the lunar landscapes of
Ladakh.
Although Jammu and Kashmir, India’s northernmost state, is a no-go area for many travelers, Ladakh, the western J&K province on the border of Tibet, is the exception. It sits astride the Ladakh and Zanskar mountains, surrounded by two of the world’s highest ranges—the Greater Himalayas and the mighty Karakoram—and nothing will prepare you for the breathtaking, stark beauty of the landscape. Jagged peaks, rocky uplands, and vast barren plateaus are the dominant features of this harsh, dry land swept by dust devils and dotted with Buddhist
gompas,
large whitewashed
chortens
(pawn-shaped commemorative cairns), and chest-high
mani
walls made from stacks of engraved stones. Aptly nicknamed “Little Tibet,” this is India at its remote best. Only visited for the few months of summer when the roads are passable, the communities outside of
Leh
(capital of Ladakh) and Padum (capital of Zanskar) remain literally frozen in time, with small Buddhist communities—such as those you’ll find in far-flung
Lamayuru
or the spectacular
Nubra Valley
—living as they have for centuries, miraculously unhassled by outside influences, and with much spiritual and natural beauty to behold. Spend at least 5 days here (adjusting to the high altitude takes time), then fly out to Delhi and rejoin the 21st century.

Himachal Pradesh

1 Staying Active

Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh are exceptional destinations for adventurous travelers. The area has a phenomenal array of trekking routes, and numerous tour operators offer anything from gentle strolls to walks lasting several days—including trips to serious rock faces for seasoned climbers. Besides the scenery, a visit here is an ideal opportunity to meet people more or less untouched by the modern world—outside of a handful of towns, much of the population in this region is rural and dependent on agriculture. It is also home to some of the world’s last nomadic people. Manali is a popular starting point for treks into the lush Kullu and Parvati valleys, while
Dharamsala
is a good base from which to explore the Dhauladhar mountain range, and the Kangra Valley below is best seen while soaring through the air dangling from a paraglider. In Ladakh, myriad trekking expeditions out of
Leh
visit the many fascinating Buddhist monasteries along the way to higher altitudes and spectacular valleys, and the
Indus
and
Zanskar rivers
are excellent for white-water rafting. Treks in the
Spiti Valley,
some of which continue on to Ladakh, are among the most rewarding and, because of the altitude in both regions, quite challenging.

Note that most of the companies listed below are happy to arrange a variety of adventure activities almost anywhere in the Himalayas, including Sikkim (discussed in chapter 15), Bhutan and Nepal.

One of the best all-round companies is
Mercury Himalayan Explorations
(
www.himalayanadventure.com
), which does everything from ski trips to Indus and Zanskar river rafting, and works in conjunction with Mercury Travels, a subsidiary of the excellent Oberoi hotel chain. Mercury pioneered many of the adventure routes that are now among the most popular in the Himalayas.

Aquaterra Adventures
(
011/2921-2641
or -2760;
www.treknraft.com
) is another well-established outfit and one of the best Indian adventure operators, specializing in trekking and rafting expeditions, and working with highly experienced and knowledgeable guides who come from the Himalayas and know the region extremely well.
Operating
since
1995, Aquaterra strives to cover routes that don’t see other groups. They also offer climbing trips, and will customize their tours and treks to suit your personal interests and abilities. You can also combine trekking and rafting trips or opt for a unique bicycle camping expedition.

Another highly recommended operator is
Project Himalaya
(
977/98-0214-9789
in Kathmandu;
www.project-himalaya.com
; [email protected]), a Kathmandu-based company run by the professional, dynamic trio of Jamie McGuinness, Joel Schone, and Kim Bannister. Joel and Kim lead the Ladakh treks, which run 20 to 24 days; the adventurous should definitely consider taking their exploratory trek to uncommon regions that you won’t find on a map. This is an outfit that does things differently, with small groups, highly personalized service, and a real concern for local support staff.

Banjara Camps & Retreats
(
www.banjaracamps.com
) operates a number of Trans-Himalayan jeep safaris, which generally start in Delhi and explore different parts of Himachal and Ladakh. Comfortable accommodations (some in beautifully situated deluxe campsites) and good meals accompany you along the way, and you can even customize your safari. Banjara
also gets our thumbs up for their excellent treks throughout this region; they offer a range of experiences, with differing degrees of difficulty and all your basic needs expertly taken care of. Banjara also offers a strenuous 15-day cycling tour in Himachal that covers 803km (498 miles), including the mighty Kunzum Pass (4,590m/15,055 ft.). Accommodations are in a mix of small hotels, guesthouses and camp sites.