India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (328 page)

Wagah is at the border between India and Pakistan, 32km (20 miles) from Amritsar. You need to arrive at the border at least 30 min. before the ceremony commences (around 6pm). No bags of any sort are permitted into the border area—leave them in your room or you’ll waste time trying to find a locker facility. Bring your passport to speed up your entry to the “special seating” area reserved for guests and foreigners. Round-trip taxi Rs 950–Rs 1,500; Rs 450 by auto-rickshaw.

WHERE TO STAY

Amritsar is undergoing a revolution. There’s news of all kinds of business hotels going up, and the Punjab’s first five-star hotel,
Ista Amritsar
(reviewed below), opened in early 2009. Of the fairly decent midrange hotels, your best option is the
Ritz Plaza Hotel
(45 The Mall;
0183/256-2836
through -2839;
www.ritzhotel.in
), which has comfortable rooms, a pool, and all the standard facilities for around Rs 4,400 double (including breakfast). But if you’d prefer a more personal environment, the two guesthouse options below offer not only value for money, but a more memorable experience.

Ista Amritsar
Marking a big step up for the dusty border town, Amritsar’s first five-star hotel offers no-nonsense luxury, and there are plenty of diversions here to keep you entertained between visits to the Temple. Although its location at the edge of town (it feels a bit like a dull suburb) leaves a lot to be desired, the hotel compensates with state of the art facilities—the best pool in town, an extensive spa (with a range of therapies, from Thai massage and aromatherapy to crystal healing and Ayurveda), an authentic Thai and Chinese restaurant, and a sexy little bar off the flash designer lobby. Rooms are sleek and contemporary, with solid, elegant furnishings. Even if it’s clearly aimed at an elite business clientele, it’s cushioning enough to have all-round appeal. Shuttles run you to the Golden Temple and staff can organize VIP seating privileges at the Wagah border ceremony. And as for the service, well, we haven’t heard
“Namaskar”
repeated so enthusiastically by so many different people in a long time.

Adj. Alpha One City Centre, MBM Farms, Main G.T. Rd., Amritsar 143 001.
0183/270-8888.
Fax 0183/270-9999.
www.istahotels.com
. 248 units. Rs 6,000–Rs 8,000 premium double, Rs 7,000–Rs 9,000 deluxe double, Rs 7,500–Rs 10,000 luxury double, Rs 11,000–Rs 18,000 deluxe suite, Rs 18,000–Rs 25,000 presidential suite. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; lounge-bar, delicatessen; airport transfers (Rs 1,070–Rs 1,666); large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi; room service; health club and spa; yoga. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Internet (Rs 1,000/day), minibar.

Mrs. Bhandari’s Guesthouse
Legendary Mrs. Bhandari passed away in 2007, but her famous guesthouse flourishes under her ever-hospitable daughter, Ratan. The late-Raj family estate packs in large gardens, a pool, and its own team of curious water buffalo; these provide milk as well as the essential ingredient (fresh dung) for homemade fire “briquettes.” Accommodations vary in size and location, arranged in and around the ivy-covered family home. Most rooms resemble “chummeries,” the bachelor quarters assigned to Raj officials of junior rank with an attached room for their Indian servant. Modest though they are, interiors have nostalgic charm, with high ceilings, Art Deco tiles, and eclectic period furnishings and decor that underscore the homey touch. Bathrooms feature drench showers or old-fashioned tubs with original piping. The kitchen genie prepares home-cooked dishes from a small menu, and staff will help you plan an itinerary, organizing any transport and temple visits you require. It’s not faultless, but service and management are hands-on and well meaning.

No. 10, Cantonment, Amritsar 143 001.
0183/222-8509.
Fax 0183/222-2390.
http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com
. [email protected]. 16 units. Rs 1,600 double, Rs 1,900 double with A/C and heater; Rs 300 extra bed. Camping Rs 170 per person with own equipment. MC, V (3% surcharge).
Amenities:
Restaurant; beer fridge, TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 550–Rs 850); camping facilities; children’s play area; Internet (broadband; Rs 40/hr.); large outdoor pool (open Mar–Nov); limited room service. In room: A/C, heater, fireplace (extra charge).

Ranjit’s Svaasa
After the hustle and bustle of Amritsar’s traffic-choked streets, returning to this pretty, professionally run boutique hotel is sheer bliss. The owners have transformed a 250-year-old colonial redbrick mansion into a haven of small town refinement, carving out a tiny, sensuous spa and developing a selection of appealing suites, each with heaps of character—antiques, artworks, and thoughtful touches (like organic towels and jute slippers)—that make the place stand out as the most intimate and special place to stay in Amritsar. Rooms are furnished with colonial-era furniture (including four-poster beds) and open onto a cool balcony overlooking a landscaped garden. Pleasant accommodations aside, the focus here is on serving delicious, healthy, organic food and pampering you at the spa: we wouldn’t dare leave without having at least one of the authentic Ayurvedic treatments; before visiting the Golden Temple, detoxify your system with a lime and ginger aromatherapy session. There’s no longer a pool (Amritsar is bitterly cold in winter anyway), but with its comfortable lounges and nooks, you need not even notice.

47A The Mall, Amritsar 143 001.
0183/256-6618
or 0183/329-8840. Fax 0183/500-3728.
www.svaasa.com
. [email protected]. 17 units, most with shower only. Rs 6,000 Rai Bahadur double; Rs 8,000 Svaasa Suite double, Rs 10,000 Ratnavali Suite double; Rs 16,000–Rs 18,000 Presidential Suite (2–4 guests); Rs 1,500 extra bed. Rates exclude 4% tax. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant, TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 850); Ayurvedic spa; small library; organic health shop; room service; Wi-Fi (in lounge and lobby; free); yoga and meditation. In room: A/C, TV (in some), DVD (in Presidential suite), fridge (in some), hair dryer.