India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (356 page)

EXPLORING LADAKH

While exploration of Ladakh’s Buddhist
gompas
are likely to consume a large part of your time here, bear in mind that the region has other wonders worth witnessing—not least, its matchless scenery. Unless you have a specific interest, don’t feel compelled to see every monastery, or you’ll likely reach saturation point before you’ve crossed them all off your list. And don’t give in to the urge to race between the Buddhist sites—half the pleasure in visiting lies in taking time to chat with the monks, or share a cup of butter tea with villagers. And, often, simply witnessing the landscape around you will make your heart soar. Note that entrance to most of the gompas requires the purchase of a ticket; most cost Rs 20, while more famous ones, like Alchi, are Rs 50.

The Road to Lamayuru

There are enough Buddhist
gompas
within easy reach of Leh to keep enthusiasts busy for several days. North along the road to Srinagar are
Phyang Gompa
(16km/10 miles from Leh), and 15th-century
Spituk Gompa
(8km/5 miles from Leh), which sits atop a lone rocky hill, crazily poised above Leh’s airport. If you’ve a craving to see more remote, extraordinary Buddhist settlements, and are prepared to spend some time on the road, though, it’s worth undertaking the scintillating journey to Lamayuru. En route are three more of Ladakh’s most alluring monastic sites, the most famous of which is Alchi
(along the left bank of the Indus around 70km/43 miles northwest of Leh, a short way off the Srinigar-Leh Rd.). On the way to Alchi, stop at
Basgo
, where a hillside citadel consists of several Buddhist temples attached to a ruined castle. A two-story-high golden statue of the future Buddha is housed in the Maitreya Temple, which has fantastic murals of fierce divinities that were the guardian deities of the royal family once resident here.

One of the oldest monasteries in the region,
Alchi
(8am–1pm and 2–6pm) dates from the 11th century, and is unique for the influence of Kashmiri art versus the pure Tibetan styles prevalent in most other monasteries. Situated in a quiet hamlet with a handful of souvenir and snack stalls and an increasing number of guesthouses and a camping ground, Alchi is centered around its inactive five-temple
gompa
complex, administered by the Yellow-Hat Gelugpa monks of Likir Monastery 30km (19 miles) across the river. You’ll need a flashlight to explore the temple interiors, which are covered with vibrant, colorful, detailed murals and wooden figures. A courtyard leads to the
dukhang,
or assembly hall, where the statue of Avalokiteshvara is believed to be of pure gold. In the temple
(Sumtsek),
you can spend forever studying the trumpet-blowing angelic figures and trying to make sense of the tantric poses assumed by a host of elegant nudes. Sadly, Alchi’s popularity, has started to detract somewhat from the experience here; the wonderful Vairocana Temple, for example, has become a sales outlet with cheap booklets and postcards for sale—somewhat off-putting when you’re trying to understand the epic tales told in panels painted on the walls.

Likir
, in fact, may not be as famous as Alchi, but to our minds makes a far more enjoyable visit (with far fewer tourists), and can be seen either on the way to Alchi, or on your return from Lamayuru. Said to occupy an area once inhabited by fairies (the name “Lu-khyil” means “circled by water spirits,”) Likir was founded by a meditation master, Lama Duwag Chosje, after the 5th King of Ladakh gave him the land in 1065. The monks here are especially friendly and laid-back—try to spend some time chatting with them as they unlock the various temples and prayer rooms for you. The monastery also includes a small
museum
(Rs 20); among the unusual items is a 400-year-old bulletproof iron jacket (or
thaap
) displayed alongside a 900-year-old shield
(fak-fali)
and equally ancient quiver
(sakdha),
suggesting an incredible history of conflict in the region that’s generally associated with peace.

If you decide to venture all the way into Zanskar (and, truly, you should), you will come across what is perhaps the most fantastical monastery of all. About 4 hours from Leh, en route to Kargil,
Lamayuru
is not only interesting as a hub of spirituality but enjoys such a unique and unusual cliff-side setting that it’s sometimes difficult to imagine that you haven’t left the planet entirely. A monk will admit you to the prayer rooms; in the Du-khang, be sure to look for the gap in the wall that reveals part of the cave where the tantric master Naropa meditated in the 10th century. Below the monastery, the dusty village spills down the steep mountain, defying the onslaught of modernity. You can pick your way through the raggedy clusters of time-battered medieval houses and look up to find yourself peering directly into the underside of the temple’s terraces. A peaceful, palpably remote settlement (now linked to the world by a brand-new tarmac road) where the arrival of a bus or truck is still greeted with some excitement, Lamayuru has a few small places to stay (the best of which is noted below), and we’d suggest you overnight here rather than rushing off to rejoin the crowds in Leh

Where to Stay

Capital of Ladakh during the 15th century, the village of Tingmosgang—80km (50 miles) west of Leh on the Likkir-Kheltsi trekking route—doesn’t see too much action these days, but does have one of Ladakh’s better village accommodation options.
Namra Hotel
(
01982/22-9033
or 94-1917-8324; [email protected]) has clean and comfortable rooms with warm beds, attached bathrooms and hot water, and there are great Himalayan views; the hotel also has a traditional Ladakhi kitchen. It’s off the well-trodden tourist path, but makes an excellent alternative base from which to explore Lamayuru, Alchi, Basgo, and Likkir—Tingmosgang Palace is a 15-minute walk from here, and you’re within easy reach of Leh, too.