India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (380 page)

Bidhan Sarani, N. Kolkata.

Meeting Bengalis

The
Indian Coffee House
(15 Bankin Chatterjee St., first floor;
033/2241-4869;
Mon–Sat 9am–9pm, Sun 9am–12:30pm and 5–9pm), where the Young Bengal Movement started,
is the quintessential College Street haunt. This is where M. N. Roy, founder of the Communist Party of India (as well as the Mexican Communist Party), Satyajit Ray, Nobel Laureate Dr. Amartya Sen, and a host of other famous personalities discussed the future of India over platefuls of fish fingers and coffee. A lone photograph of Rabindranath Tagore looks across a vast former 1930s dance hall with sagging ceiling fans and scattered tables around which men, young and old, demonstratively argue the issues of the day. Surly waiters plod around rather aimlessly, so be patient while waiting for your greasy pakora and a strong Coorg. Meals are not the reason to come, but it’s a good place to strike up a conversation over a cup of coffee. For an even more animated and authentic interaction with locals, head for the
Calcutta races
(
www.rctconline.com
); ask any waiter or at your hotel about the next event. All walks of life are to be seen here, many in their finest glad rags. As everyone celebrates the chance to escape their dharma, the atmosphere is electric.

Marble Palace
Up a back street, in what was once known as Black Town, stands a vast mansion—a wonder to behold—sporting a plush Romanesque veneer that incorporates at least 90 different varieties of marble. Built in 1835 by the wealthy
zamindar
(landowner) Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur, this palatial family home has seen better days, and is now the center of a bitter feud between relatives, some of whom have been accused of sneaking off with the more valuable displays. But several works attributed to Titian and Renoir remain, while Venetian chandeliers, Ming vases, Egyptian statuary, as well as paintings, sculptures, furniture, and antique vases accumulated from 90 countries crowd the enormous, dimly lit rooms that open off deep verandas around an inner courtyard. Get there soon, since the feuding of the Mullicks makes it uncertain which prized item might next disappear. Admission is free, but you need a pass from the India Tourism Kolkata Office; if you arrive without one, the guard will let you in for a small fee (although this simply adds to the culture of corruption in India). A guide (at times, a young boy trying to make pocket money) is sent with you but it’s pretty much a sham—insist on someone knowledgeable. In the same compound, you’ll find a small garden and an animal enclosure.

46 Muktaram Basu St., off Chittaranjan Ave.
033/2269-3310.
Free admission but you need a pass from the India Tourism Kolkata Office. Tues–Wed and Fri–Sun 10am–4pm.

Paresnath Temple
Jain temples are generally the most beautifully adorned in India, and Paresnath, dedicated to Sithalnath—one of the 24 perfect souls
(tirthankaras)
of the Jain religion—is no exception. Built in 1867 by a jeweler whose love of intricate designs, mirrors, and colored glass is evident everywhere, it boasts lavishly adorned patterned marble, beautiful European chandeliers, and stained-glass windows. A quiet garden is dotted with silver statues, and the temple houses an eternal flame that’s apparently never gone out.

Badridas Temple St. Free admission. Daily 6am–noon and 3–7pm.

Durga Puja—Not Just Another Festival

Indians celebrate all year long throughout the country, but the grande dame of festivals is the
Durga Puja
(signifying the return of the goddess to her parents’ home), the most sacred festival for the Bengalis. Though it is celebrated with much pomp all over northeastern India, Kolkata does it best, and if you’re traveling here in September or October you simply have to include Kolkata in your itinerary. Literally every family is involved, not just in their own celebrations, but also as participants of the collective neighborhood presentation of Goddess Durga. Pandals, a kind of marquee used to shelter the idol, abound in the city, and have over the last decade become a commercial enterprise, with lucrative cash prizes for the most impressive—this has led to some highly innovative designs, where the raw materials include everything from bamboo and cloth to futuristic high-tech gizmos. The mode of transport for Durga is declared by the pundits just before the festival commences, and for many orthodox Bengalis, it is a sign of what awaits them in the coming year—for instance, an elephant could mean prosperity, while a boat may signify natural disasters. The festivities last for 4 days, with dances and frenzied drumming, lots of food, and endless bouts of shopping—it is mayhem on a grand scale and well worth experiencing. On the last day, idols (ranging from 1 inch to grandiose figures of over 9m/30 ft.) are immersed in the Hoogly, which carries many a prayer into deeper realms.

Santiniketan: Where the World Makes a Home in a Single Nest

Known as the intellectual capital of India, Bengal has given birth to plenty of big personalities, but the one every Indian is most familiar with is the Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. His collected works are easily available in any bookshop or library but the literary domain was not the only one he contributed to. Visit his creation
Viswa Bharati University
(which means communion of the world with India) at Santiniketan, 160km (99 miles) from Kolkata, where you will find a unique setting for imparting education, with classes held in the open; much the same way as the ancient Indian school system (gurukul). Education takes on a different meaning here and with prior appointment, you can spend time amid students and teachers to learn more. If you decide to stay overnight, you could opt for one of the four guesthouses on campus (contact PRO) or try the simple but charming
Hotel Chhuti
Holiday resort
(
033/3293-4545;
www.chhutiresort.com
) or
Hotel Camellia
(
03463/54-778;
www.camelliagroup.org
). (
Note:
Nearby, the exquisite terra-cotta temples of
Kalna
are an added incentive to make the trip.) Santiniketan, Birbhum, West Bengal 731 235.
03463/26-2751,
or PRO 03463/26-2626;
www.visva-bharati.ac.in
. Closed on Wednesday.