India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (395 page)

Darjeeling has a sizable Tibetan presence and a number of Buddhist monasteries you can visit. Set against the backdrop of Kanchenjunga, colorful
Bhutia Busty Gompa,
near Chowrasta, is famous for the contents of its upstairs Buddhist library—one of the texts kept there is the original
Tibetan Book of the Dead.
On Tenzing Norgay Road, you may be able to buy Tibetan and Sikkimese handicrafts
at
Aloobari Monastery.

An hour’s walk from town is
Padmaja Naidu Zoological Park,
where you can give the animals a miss and head straight for the secluded
Snow Leopard and Red Panda Breeding Programme,
the only successful breeding program of these endangered species in the world. Sit patiently and watch snow leopards in their cages or a red panda in the trees, or chat with Kiran Motane, the program’s dedicated zoologist.

A Glorious Sunrise

Watching the sun rise from
Tiger Hill,
near the sleepy town of Ghoom, is one of the best things to do in the area (11km/7 miles from Darjeeling; private taxi costs Rs 800 round-trip): The sight of the first rays of dawn carving a dramatic, golden silhouette around the not-too-distant eastern Himalayan peaks is brilliant. Occasionally, Mount Everest is also visible, just 225km (140 miles) away. Come armed with spare film and warm clothing—at an altitude of 2,550m (8,160 ft.), predawn Tiger Hill is bone-jarringly cold, and if you want to join the crowds who flock here each morning, you have to be up before dawn. The entry fee is Rs 5, but you can pay a little extra for VIP treatment inside a special observation tower (Rs 40), where heating is accompanied by soothing Darjeeling tea. On the way back, visit
Ghoom (Liga Choling) Gompa;
possibly the best-known Buddhist monastery around Darjeeling, it was founded in the late 1800s and enshrines a 5m-high (16-ft.) clay statue of the Maitreya Buddha. In the early morning light, the colorfully painted figures over the facade and rooftops—intended to scare away evil spirits—are radiant. Along the exterior walls are prayer wheels that are spun in order to send countless prayers to the heavens, while inside, butter lamps are lit in offering to the deity.

WHERE TO STAY

Darjeeling is a great place to experience real colonial coziness, with several charming heritage hotels. In this category our preference is for
Mayfair Hill,
but
Windamere Hotel
(
0354/225-4041
or -4042;
www.windamerehotel.com
; doubles from Rs 8,550),
originally a Victorian boardinghouse for English tea-planters on Observatory Hill, has atmospheric public spaces (though the list of do’s and don’ts put a slight damper on the holiday). Its huge heritage rooms come with immense charm, but the hotel is showing signs of wear and tear (as you’d expect from a place built in 1889), as does the service. Another heritage property (and better bet) is
The Elgin Hotel
(
0354/225-7226
or -7227;
www.elginhotels.com
; doubles from Rs 5,800; includes all meals). With the air of a country manor, the hotel is frequented by an upmarket foreign crowd looking to relive the splendor of the British Raj. Like that of Windamere, its public spaces are filled with old-world charm—old-fashioned sofas, deep armchairs, fireplaces, and beautiful rugs—but some of the rooms aren’t quite as grand (some odd color combinations, too), and the bathrooms are small. The best views are from room nos. 21 to 23, 31 to 33, and 51 to 53.

If daily walks are what you’re looking for, then
Kurseong
(an hour below Darjeeling) offers some nice hikes. The town is ramshackle but fortunately the best place to stay is tucked away from it. Choc-a-bloc with quirky antiques, wooden floors, frayed rugs, inexplicable teddy bears, a few dusty corners and a lot of atmosphere what with a Volkswagen perched on the awning,
Cochrane Place
(
99-3203-5660;
www.imperialchai.com
) is great to stay at but not for more than 2 days because the food is below average and given that the restaurant is the best the town has, you should be on your way pretty soon—walk a lot, stick to the momos and enjoy our favorite Batasia suite which comes with an attic or take a pick from the deluxe rooms (Rs 4,380–Rs 5,870; all meals included). Finally, if you want to be assured of absolute peace and quiet, head for the nearby hill station of Kalimpong.

Dekeling Hotel
Some of the cedar-paneled guest rooms at this charming hotel (best choice for tight budgets) have the best views in town. Spotlessly clean and simple, this is the place to go for Tibetan hospitality (run by the wonderfully warm Norbu and Sangay Dekeva) rather than Raj-style sophistication. An old iron chimney heater keeps the lounge/library (stone tile floors, Tibetan sofas,
thangkas,
Tibetan paintings) cozy and warm; it’s a wonderful place to kick back with a book, watched by the family dog, Doma. Guest rooms are basic, and although the bathrooms are a little small (with shower only), they’re immaculately clean. On cold nights, a hot-water bottle is usually tucked into your bed. On the attic floor, room no. 3 has a 180-degree view that takes in Darjeeling town and Mount Kachenchunga in all its snowcapped magnificence. For security reasons, the hotel, located high above Dekevas Restaurant, is locked up at 11pm; inform the management by 9pm if you expect to be late.

51 Gandhi Rd., Darjeeling 734 101.
0354/225-3298
or -4159. Fax 0354/225-3298.
www.dekeling.com
. 22 units. Rs 1,000 back-facing double; Rs 1,250 standard and attic double; Rs 1,600 deluxe double. Rs 250 extra bed. Discounts of up to 50% off season (July 1–Sept 14 and Jan 15–Mar 14). AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; library; room service; Wi-Fi (Rs 60/hr.). In room: TV, electric heater on request, hot water.

Dekeling Resort
This little guesthouse (resort is an ill-chosen descriptor) is the best value-for-money deal in town. A stiff, athletic climb leads you to “Hawke’s Nest,” the colonial bungalow with a commanding location high above the town, now redubbed Dekeling Resort. Prayer flags flutter around this 120-year-old green-roofed, bay-windowed, two-leveled, all-suite cottage offering simple comfort, effortless charm, and complete privacy. There’s a small, one-table dining room where breakfasts and home-cooked meals are served; or you can be served in bed, which the obliging staff of two will arrange. Ask for a double bed in an upstairs room; accommodations there are huge and charming, with wood floors, carved antique dressers, Tibetan rugs, pale floral fabrics, and lovely fireplaces. Bathrooms have large drench showers and plenty of natural light. This is a true haven if you don’t mind the 20-minute walk to The Mall.