India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (390 page)

Near C.R.P. Sq., NH 5.
0674/256-1635
or -3649. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; closed 2nd Sat of each month.

Orissa State Museum
This collection convincingly explains the religious context of Hindu sculptures, but you may be more fascinated by the erotic friezes that date back as far as the 7th century
A.D
. Upstairs, the
Manuscript Gallery
includes early examples of the type of work you’ll encounter in some Orissan crafts villages. Along with a collection of musical instruments, a number of dioramas depict different Orissan tribes. Next door is a collection of
patachitra
(cloth)
paintings dealing primarily with the Jagannath cult and tales from the
Ramayana.

Lewis Rd., near Kalpana Sq.
0674/243-1597.
Rs 50. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

Rajarani Temple
Surrounded by open space and paddy fields, this 11th-century temple—maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India—glimmers in the light of day, built as it was using a superior-quality burgundy-gold sandstone. Unusual for Orissan temples, the tower
(shikhara)
features miniature versions of itself. Sculptural representations of lotus flowers with the guardians of the eight cardinal directions are a standout feature of the temple walls, which also feature delightful female figures engaged in mundane (but beautiful) daily activities.

Tankapani Rd. Rs 220. Daily 6am–6pm.

Udaygiri and Khandagiri caves
Barely 7km (4 1⁄3 miles) from the chaos of Bhubaneswar, the twin caves of Udaygiri and Khandagiri were once home to aspiring Jain monks. They were built in the 1st century
B.C.
by King Kharevala, and each complex numbers roughly 15 to 18 caves. Of the two, Udaygiri is more interesting, with caves filled with ornate carvings—look for caves 1, 3, 5, 9, 10, and 14; Khandagiri’s cave no. 3 is also rich in carvings. If you go in the evening, the atmosphere gets a little more interesting, with monkeys gamboling from one cave to another and the odd lone
sadhu
playing his flute. The caves bathed in golden light around sunset look very beautiful and serene despite the tourist influx. (For those academically interested in other cave sites, the
Lalitgiri, Udaigiri,
and
Ratnagiri
trio are located 100km (62 miles) from Bhubanswar and contain Buddhist excavations, sculptures and stupas. Note that these are entirely lacking in nearby infrastructure.)

Small entry fee. Daily 8am–6pm.

Where to Stay

Mayfair Lagoon
Not as luxe or delightfully serene as the Trident, the Mayfair is nevertheless hugely popular with the international corporate world and Indian tourists. Cottages and villas with plush interiors and views of the lagoon are set amid gardens, and facilities like the only spa in the city as well as the pub
10 Downing Street
does pull in the crowd. While you would be better off staying clear of Lemon Grass, their Thai/Chinese offering, you could opt for typical Oriya cuisine at
Kanika
or dine in the open-air
Nakli Dhaba:
an imitation of a typical roadside eatery in India that serves the night highway traffic, there’s even a faux gas pump and truck.

8-B Jaydev Vihar, Bhubaneswar 751 013.
0674/236-0101.
Fax 0674/236-0236.
www.mayfairhotels.com
. 102 units. Rs 8,000 executive cottage/club room; Rs 14,000 deluxe cottage/club suite; Rs 28,000 villa; Rs 1,500 extra bed. Check website for online specials. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
4 restaurants; 2 bars; airport transfer (Rs 800); babysitting; butler service; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player; hair dryer, Jacuzzi and a lake-view deck (only villas), minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 331/hr., Rs 899/day).

Trident Hilton
Situated some distance out of the city center, this classy low-rise hotel is surrounded by 5.6 hectares (14 acres) of exquisite lawns, mango groves, and rock gardens. Drawing businesspeople, travelers, and even the English cricket team, this is Bhubaneswar’s most fabulous, and expensive, hotel. Stepping inside the lobby is like entering a temple, sans the usual chaos brought by thronging worshipers. The space has been carefully designed with stone columns, beautiful brickwork, and trellised railings enhanced by concealed lighting and spectacular brass-bell lighting features. Mythical lions perch above, looking down on guests as they arrive, and in the evenings, live Indian music is featured. Guest rooms are smart, stylish, and well laid out. Bird-watchers should ask for a room facing the rose garden. The kitchen will prepare a picnic basket for you should you be heading out on a long day of temple-exploring.

C.B.-1, Nayapalli, Bhubaneswar 751 013.
0674/230-1010.
Fax 0674/230-1302.
www.tridenthotels.com
. 62 units. Rs 11,000 deluxe room; Rs 14,000 junior suite; Rs 18,000 executive suite; Rs 22,500 presidential suite. Check website for online specials. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; airport transfer (Rs 729); babysitting; badminton court; doctor-on-call; jogging track; pool; room service; 2 floodlit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player (in suites), hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 700/day).