India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (397 page)

4 Sikkim

Sikkim’s original inhabitants are the Lepchas, also called Rongtub (literally “the dearest people of Mother Earth”), who call their land
Ney Mayal Lyang,
or “heaven.” And how! Crammed in between Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan, and West Bengal, this tiny, mountainous state is as pristine a pocket of India as you are likely to encounter, with some 4,000 varieties of wildflowers (including 600 varieties of orchids), snow-fed lakes, high-altitude mountain forests, and hidden Buddhist monasteries. Some travelers come simply to enjoy the refreshing views and clean air, but most are here to tackle the fantastic treks through western Sikkim, exploring remote valleys and villages of yak-herding Tibetans. Ideally, you should spend a day or two in the state capital,
Gangtok,
to organize permits and transport/trekking arrangements, then head to
Pelling
before undertaking a demanding high-altitude trek for several days. Or you can skip Gangtok and either hire a jeep that goes directly from Siliguri (near the railway station at New Jalpaiguri) to Pelling, or travel from Bagdogra, the nearest airport; both are about 6 hours away by road. If you want to avoid serious trekking and enjoy easier hikes, you can opt for
Tendong Hill
or
Menam Hill,
which can be accessed via Namchi and Rawangla in South Sikkim. There is relatively very little to offer in terms of accommodation in these areas, but the scenery of endless terraced paddy fields with dense forests higher up is worth the visit—this is also home to the famous Temi Tea Garden. Remoter still and even more gorgeous is
North Sikkim,
with some spectacular drives—the Chungthang-to-Lachung stretch is riddled with waterfalls, while Lachung to Yumthang ascends 1,000m (3,280 ft.) in just 25km (16 miles), cruising through the Singba Rhododendron Reserve, which in spring is a riot of colors. If you’ve come this far, make sure you dip your weary bones in the hot sulfur springs at Yumthang. (
Note:
North Sikkim is accessible only via a tour agency—the government does not want to overburden the natural resources with an uncontrolled tourist influx.)

ESSENTIALS

PERMITS
In addition to the standard visa, foreign visitors must be in possession of an
Inner Line Permit
(see “Acquiring your Sikkim Permit in Darjeeling,” earlier in this chapter). This, together with your passport, must be carried at all times. If you wish to travel north of Gangtok or Pelling, you will require an additional endorsement or
Protected Area Permit
from Sikkim Tourism in Gangtok.

VISITOR INFORMATION
Sikkim Tourism
(Mahatma Gandhi Marg;
03592/22-1634;
www.sikkimindia.com
) is open Monday to Saturday, May through August, 10am to 4pm; March through April and September through October daily 9am to 7pm. The center has a computerized touch-screen kiosk that will provide more-or-less up-to-date tourist information (when it’s working). This is where you can book highly recommended scenic helicopter rides. The office downstairs is where you must have your Sikkim permit endorsed if you intend to visit certain restricted areas in the state. There’s also an
Information Counter
(
0353/269-8030
daily 10am–2:30pm) at Bagdogra Airport.

GETTING THERE
Bagdogra
in neighboring West Bengal is the closest airport, and is served by flights from major cities like Kolkata, Mumbai and Delhi (refer to “Getting There” in the section on Darjeeling). From Bagdogra, Sikkim Helicopter Service runs daily 30-minute flights to Gangtok for around Rs 1,700, well worth it just for the views. Alternatively, taxis (4 hr.; Rs 2,500) and buses are available. Shared jeep services are also available from Darjeeling, Siliguri, and Kalimpong, all in West Bengal. These are highly affordable; book more than one seat for yourself, preferably the two front seats for the best views. If you’re coming from Kathmandu, fly to
Bhadrapur
in east Nepal, and head to Gangtok via Kakarbhitta (on the Nepalese-Indian border) and Siliguri in West Bengal.

GETTING AROUND SIKKIM
Unless you pick up a helicopter from Bagdogra Airport, you will travel in Sikkim by road. Use either a private or shared jeep. Although roads are open throughout the year, bear in mind that all of Sikkim is mountainous and routes inevitably take far longer than they appear on maps. The shared taxi and jeep services from Gangtok to Pelling (Rs 175) that depart twice a day at 7am and 12:30pm are served by
Nam Nam taxi stand;
book your seat in advance. Again, book both front seats, for the views, and also because drivers tend to pack way more people into the car than you’d have imagined possible. Sikkim’s roads invariably traverse steep mountains and deep valleys, so travel can be exhausting (the journey to Pelling, via Ravangla, takes 5 hr.), but the scenery is spectacular. Alternatively, you could break journey at the delightful Yangsum Farm (reviewed later) at Rinchenpong (11⁄2 hr. from Pelling). Within
Gangtok,
you’re best off doing most of your wandering on foot; because of one-way roads, taxis are frequently required to skirt much of the city. To get to the Tibetology Institute and to Rumtek Monastery, you’ll have to use a taxi.

GUIDED TOURS & TRAVEL AGENTS
For all kinds of adventure tourist activities as well as tour arrangements, contact Jimmy Singh of
Gurudongma Tours and Treks
(
90-0269-2611
or 94-3406-2100;
www.gurudongma.com
).
Blue Sky Tours & Travel
(Tourism Building, Mahatma Gandhi Marg;
03592/20-5113;
www.blue-sky-tours.com
) specializes in jeep tours of northern Sikkim. They can also help you with local sightseeing, and offer a 2-day Monastery Tour that takes in several Buddhist monasteries in the state. Like all tour operators in Gangtok, their rates depend on the number of riders.

For trekking arrangements, try
Sikkim Tours & Travels
(Church Rd.;
03592/20-2188;
www.sikkimtours.com
).
Tashila Tours & Travels
(
03592/20-2978;
www.tashila.com
) undertakes a range of services, including trekking, rafting, and specialist tours.
Siniolchu Tours and Travels
(
03592/20-5569
or 94-3402-4572; [email protected]; Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 2–8pm) is reliable. Headquartered in Gangtok, it undertakes a wide range of spectacular treks and tours in various regions of Sikkim and beyond. Most treks cost in the vicinity of $80 per person per day, and include tents, food, porters, yaks, and guides.