India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (404 page)

For Residents of
the
United States
To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the
National Passport Information Center
toll-free number (
877/487-2778
) for automated information.

POLICE
Emergency and police contact numbers are listed in “Fast Facts” sections for major cities.

SMOKING
Whatever curbs the government has tried to place on cigarette usage, there are still relatively slim signs of society giving in to concerns about the hazards of smoking. Things are improving, though, and whereas just a few years ago it seemed as though just about every male in India smoked something, there’s a marked drive towards health and social consciousness—this is probably more evident among the upper echelons of society and in cities where people are more regularly exposed to forward-thinking advertising campaigns. On the other hand, the cities are also where high-cool is sometimes defined by cigar toking, so it’s ultimately up to the lawmakers to change attitudes. Where they have made changes, they’ve been pretty thorough: Shimla (in Himachal Pradesh) theoretically forbids smoking in any public place, including on the streets; Chandigarh (the Union Territory from where the Punjab government operates) has been working towards similarly far-reaching legislation; and in Trivandrum (Kerala’s capital), smoking in restaurants and public places is banned (and the rule is being enforced). Smoking is also forbidden on all trains, so if someone is smoking on your train, you are well within your rights to ask them to stop. Most luxury hotels have introduced nonsmoking rooms; if you don’t smoke, request one when you book your reservation.

TAXES
The tax on hotel accommodations varies from state to state, and sometimes by city; it may be anywhere between 5% and 12.5%, and may differ within the same hotel according to the level of luxury and comfort you’re experiencing. On the other hand, in regions like Ladakh, there is no taxation. Additional taxes on restaurant food and alcohol also vary from state to state. Imported liquors attract a similarly disagreeable sin tax, making local brands far more attractive than their quality might suggest. In Tamil Nadu, for example, a whopping 73.5% tax is levied on imported liquor. Restaurant bills often include additional charges (such as a service tax) that usually account for between 10% and 15% of the total cost of your meal.

TELEPHONES
Phone numbers in India change at the drop of a hat, and businesses are slow in updating contact information, including websites.

To call India:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 (from the U.S. and Canada); 00 (from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand); or 0011 (from Australia).

2. Dial the country code: 91.

3. Dial the city code (these are provided in the relevant chapters), omitting the first zero.

4. Dial the telephone number.

Note:
To call a cellphone number in India, follow up to step 2 above and then dial the 10-digit cellphone number, which should begin with “9.”

Making calls within India:
Hotel telephone costs are exorbitant, even when you make a domestic long-distance call. All over India, you’ll see yellow ISD/STD signs indicating a privately operated “International Subscriber Dialing” and “Standard Trunk Dialing” facility; these are very reasonably priced. To call a mobile phone number that is not in the city in which you are based, dial “0” before the 10-digit number. Note that the Indian toll-free numbers (1/800) cannot be dialed from cellphones and land lines that don’t belong to the MTNL or BSNL networks.

Making calls from cellphones:
When making calls from cellphones, you’ll need to punch in the full area code of the city and telephone number irrespective of where you are calling from (even for local calls). To call a cellphone number within a city, just dial the 10-digit cellphone number; to call a cellphone outside your city, add a “0” before the number.

To make international calls:
Dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you want to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., dial
00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance:
Dial
197
if you’re looking for a local number within India, and dial
183
for long-distance numbers within India. Don’t hold your breath for accurate or up-to-date assistance, and speak slowly and clearly.

For operator assistance:
If the phone you’re using is not an International Subscriber Dialing (ISD) facility, you’ll need operator assistance and must dial
186.
Using an ISD facility without the need for an operator will save you a great deal of time.
Toll-free numbers:
To call a 1-800 number in the U.S. from India, first contact the international operator through the Direct Access service. For a call to the U.S., call
000-117 (AT&T Direct Access), which gives you an AT&T operator, through whom you can make your toll-free or collect call. Note, however, that these Direct Access calls cannot be made from everywhere; to ensure you won’t be charged for the call, check with your hotel before dialing.

TIME
Despite India’s vastness, the entire country operates according to the same time zone, 51⁄2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. That’s 91⁄2 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time (New York) or 101⁄2 when daylight saving time comes into effect in the U.S.
Note:
You may find your sense of time threatened while you’re in India; the rule of thumb is
don’t panic.
Remember that there’s no point in getting worked up about delayed trains and such. In fact, when you arrive on time or ahead of schedule, be thankful. Use “wasted time” to chat with locals.

TIPPING
Tipping in India is an industry unto itself, and it’s a relief to find yourself in an environment like the Oberoi, where individual tipping is not encouraged, for this very reason. Bear in mind that many of the people who serve you are possibly living on the bread line, and your monetary contribution will be greatly appreciated; handing over a Rs 10 or Rs 20 note will hardly dent your pocket. Obviously it’s not worthwhile to tip someone who hasn’t eased your journey, but do reward those drivers, guides, and hotel staff who go out of their way to make your stay an enjoyable one. A driver or guide who’s been with you an entire day will be most grateful for an extra Rs 200 to Rs 300.

Tipping is but one strain of India’s all-pervasive
baksheesh
system, which is apparently an accepted means of distributing wealth to the lower echelons of society. As a foreigner, you will be regarded as wealthy, and your endless charity is almost expected by those who are less fortunate. It’s therefore an excellent idea to always keep a stash of Rs 10 notes in an easy-to-access pocket, so that you can hand cash to the person who has just carried your bags or given you an unsolicited tour or looked after your shoes (the list is endless), and is now hanging around hopefully. Occasionally, someone will bluntly demand
baksheesh,
which is the same term that may be used by beggars, religious mendicants, and barefoot children looking for a handout. You are not obliged to pay anything, of course, but your conscience and irritation level will probably sway you either way.
Tip:
In Hindu temples, priests will happily encourage you to hand over huge sums of cash, often insisting that the money is for the poor. Be wary of such scams, and bear in mind that many temple officials have grown wealthy on charity intended for the poor.