Julia's Kitchen Wisdom (23 page)

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Breads, Crêpes, and Tarts

“Of course you can buy a ready-made pie shell, but it’s a shame not to have the know-how yourself.”

BREADS

Yeast bread is a vast subject, comprising not only white bread and French bread but croissants, brioches, pumpernickel, whole wheat and rye, sourdoughs, and so forth. In this little book, therefore, I am concentrating only on some of the basics that apply to all of them.

Basic Dough for White Bread, French Breads, Pizzas, and Hard Rolls
Enough for one 2-quart loaf pan, 2 long fat French loaves, three 18-inch baguettes, two 9-inch round loaves, two 16-inch pizzas, or 12 rolls

1 package (a scant Tbs) active dry yeast

⅓ cup tepid water (not over 110°F)

Pinch of sugar

1 cup cold water, plus more if needed

3½ cups (1 pound) unbleached white all-purpose or bread flour, plus a little more if needed

1 Tbs rye or whole-wheat flour

2¼ tsp salt

Proof yeast in tepid water with the sugar for 5 minutes (see box below), then stir in the cold water. Measure the flours and salt into the food processor fitted with a steel blade. With the machine running, rather slowly process in the yeast and water, adding driblets more cold water if needed, until the dough balls up on top of the blade. Let it revolve 8 to 10 times, then stop the machine and feel the dough. It should be reasonably soft and pliable. If damp and wet, process in a tablespoon or so more flour; if dry, add a dribble more cold water. Let rest for 5 minutes.

TO PROOF YEAST.
It’s always wise to make sure your yeast is really active. Stir a tablespoon of active dry yeast in a cup with 3 tablespoons of tepid water and a pinch of sugar. In 5 minutes it should begin to bubble. It’s alive!

Process the dough another 15 seconds or so, then remove it to a floured
board and let it rest 2 minutes. Knead it vigorously by hand a good 50 times, as described in the box below.

FINAL KNEADING OF DOUGH BY HAND.
If you overknead in the processor, the dough can heat up; in addition, the gluten strands can break down, preventing a full rise. To finish the dough, fold it over on itself, then, with the heels of your hands, push it out in front of you, roughly, rapidly, and vigorously. Repeat about 50 times, until it is smooth and elastic and when you stretch the dough it holds together. It should not stick to your hands unless you pinch and hold a piece.

Preliminary Rise.
Turn the dough into a 4-quart fairly straight-sided ungreased bowl. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a towel, and set in a draft-free place—75°F is ideal. Dough will rise to 1½ times its original volume, usually in about 1 hour.

RESTING THE DOUGH.
Flour contains both starch and gluten. The gluten holds the particles together and also allows the dough to hold its rise. However, gluten develops increasing resistance as the dough is worked, and it then becomes more and more difficult to manipulate. Whenever your dough won’t roll easily, simply stop where you are and let it rest 10 minutes or so. The gluten will relax, and you can continue.

Second Rise.
Turn dough out onto a lightly floured board. Push and pat it into a 14-inch rectangle and fold it into 3, like a business letter. Repeat a second time, then return it to the ungreased bowl, cover, and let rise again. It will rise to 2½ to 3 times its original volume, usually in 1 to 1½ hours. When almost tripled, the dough is ready to form and bake.

TEMPERATURES FOR RISING.
Ideal temperatures are 70° to 75°F. Warmer, the rise is too fast and you miss out on flavor development. Colder is fine, even down to a refrigerator chill—you get flavor development—but it simply takes the dough longer to rise: the colder the environment, the longer it takes.

To Form and Bake 2 Long French Loaves

The very special movements here are designed to force the dough to develop a gluten cloak that holds as it bakes free-form into its characteristic loaf. Keep your work surface lightly floured at all times, so the gradually forming cloak will not tear. Set a smooth, lightly floured cotton or linen towel on a large rimless (or upside-down) baking sheet, to hold the formed loaves.

Cut the dough in half, then fold each piece in half. Cover one; push and pat the other into an 8-by-10-inch roughly rectangular shape.

Fold in half lengthwise. Press and pound firmly with your fist to seal the edges and flatten the dough to about its original shape.

Roll the dough so the seam is centered on top, and firmly press a rough trench into the seam with the side of your hand.

Using the seam as a guide, fold the dough in half lengthwise, and again press long edges together firmly to seal.

Starting at its center, begin rolling this length of dough under your open palms, gradually moving your hands apart and stretching the dough as you roll. Elongate the dough to about 18 inches (no longer than the length of your baking surface!) and place it seam side up on the long half of the lightly floured towel. I now like to pinch the sealed long edges securely together, just to be sure. Cover loosely with another floured towel while you form the second loaf the same way. Make a pleat in the towel alongside the first loaf, to separate the two loaves, and lay the second in place.

Final Rise Before Baking.
Usually 1 to 1½ hours. Cover both loaves with the floured towel and let rise until more than doubled in volume. Meanwhile, make everything ready for baking, so that you may proceed almost at once.

EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR BAKING FRENCH BREAD.
French bread not only rises free-form, but it bakes free-form—not in a pan. It is difficult, even frustrating to attempt it without the proper equipment. Here is what you will need.

A Hot Baking Surface.
French bread does not cook properly when baked on a metal sheet. It must be slid upon a baking stone or a pizza stone, or line your oven rack with ceramic quarry tiles—available in some cookware shops or in building-supply stores.

Unmolding and Sliding Boards.
The risen loaf is unmolded from its floured towel and slid onto the hot baking surface. I use ⅜-inch plywood bought at the home-improvement store, an 8-by-20-inch board for unmolding and for sliding a single loaf, and a 20-inch board 2 inches narrower than the width of my oven for sliding several long loaves or rolls.

Cornmeal.
A light dusting of coarse cornmeal on the sliding board keeps the dough from sticking.

Steam.
To prolong the rise and set the crust, you need steam the first few seconds of baking. In an electric oven, toss ½ cup water into the bottom, just before closing the door. In a gas oven, set a hot cast-iron frying pan on the lowest level as you preheat, and toss the water into that when the time comes.

To Bake 2 Loaves of French Bread.
Slide the oven rack onto the middle or lower-middle level, set the baking stone or tiles upon it, and preheat the oven to 450°F. Sprinkle the sliding board lightly with cornmeal, and have your unmolding board and instant-read thermometer at hand.

Remove the covering towel and place the unmolding board against the inside side of one loaf, lift the towel on the other side, and flip the loaf, its smooth side up, onto the board, then nudge the loaf onto one side of the sliding board. Repeat with the second loaf. Push the loaves so that the ends of each are at one end of the board.

With a razor blade held almost flat, make 3 slightly angled slashes in the top of each loaf. Open the oven door. Poise the sliding board so that the ends of the loaves are about 1 inch from the back of the oven, then quickly snatch the board out from under the loaves, depositing them on the hot surface. Immediately pour ½ cup water onto
oven floor or hot pan
. Close the door. Bake 20 minutes; reduce temperature to 400°F and bake 10 minutes more, until done (see box below). Remove and cool on a rack.

WHEN IS THE BREAD DONE?
The loaves should feel light, they should make a pleasant thump when tapped, but they are not done until an instant-read thermometer, left in for several seconds, reads 200°F.

VARIATIONS

• BAGUETTES.
  After the second rise, divide the dough into 3 equal pieces. Shape, roll, and stretch each into a thin (2-inch diameter) rope; let rise until more than doubled. Bake as for fat loaves, but check for doneness 5 minutes after reducing heat to 400°F.
  

• ROUND COUNTRY LOAF (OR LOAVES).
  After the second rise, turn the dough out onto a floured surface; deflate as described in the master recipe. Use all the dough for 1 large loaf, or divide in half for 2 smaller loaves.
  

  Pat the dough into a disk. Lift one side and bring it almost over the other; rotate a quarter turn, and repeat 6 to 8 times, to make a thick cushion. Turn the dough over and rotate it between your palms, tucking the sides under as you go, to make a smooth, round loaf.
  

  Turn the dough over, smooth side underneath. Pinch the edges together, set on a floured towel, and cover with another towel. (Repeat with the remaining dough, if you are making 2.)
  

  Let rise until more than doubled. Prepare and preheat oven to 450°F as in the master recipe. Transfer the loaves smooth side up to the cornmeal-dusted sliding board. Slash the top with your razor in a decorative pattern, such as a crosshatch or a tree with branches. Slide into the oven, create steam, and bake as in the master recipe. Large loaves may need an additional 10 to 15 minutes at 375°F to finish baking.
  

• BAKING IN A LOAF PAN.
  Butter a 2-quart loaf pan. Pat the dough into a rectangle slightly smaller than the pan. Fold in half lengthwise twice, as for long loaves, to form an even rectangle. Place seam down in pan, press flat into corners. Let rise until dough has doubled in volume.
  

  Meanwhile, slide rack onto lower-third level, and preheat the oven to 450°F. Slash top of loaf lengthwise down the center with a razor, and bake for 20 minutes, then reduce temperature to 400°F.
  When done
  , turn out of pan and cool on a rack.
  

• HARD FRENCH ROLLS.
  After its second rise, divide dough into 12 pieces. Fold each in half. One at a time (or 2 when you are an expert), rotate the dough under the palm of one hand to form a ball. Pinch undersides to seal, and set smooth side down on a lightly floured towel. Cover with a second towel and let rise until more than doubled.
  

  Prepare and preheat the oven to 450°F, as in the master recipe. Arrange the rolls 3 or 4 at a time smooth side up at the end of your cornmeal-dusted sliding board. Slash each with a circular stroke around the side, or a cross on top. Slide onto baking stone and rapidly continue with the rest. Make steam as in the master recipe. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, then reduce temperature to 375°F and bake a few minutes more
  until done
  .
  

  MAKING AND KNEADING DOUGH BY HAND.
  If you prefer to make the dough entirely by hand, mix the ingredients in a bowl with a sturdy wooden spoon, then turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. For the first few minutes, pick it up with a scraper and slap it down roughly, and continue a number of times, until the dough begins to have body. Let rest 5 minutes. Then proceed to knead it with your hands as described in the box.
  

• PIZZA.
  For two 16-inch tomato pizzas. Set rack on the lower-middle level and preheat the oven and pizza stone to 450°F.
  

  Form the dough into 2 smooth balls and let rest, covered. After 10 minutes, lightly flour a pizza paddle; flatten and stretch the dough into a thin disk on the paddle by rolling it out and pressing into shape with your fingers, or stretch and twirl it, professional-style, while supporting it on both your fists and twisting them apart—you’ll have to see it done to do it!
  

  Brush the top of the dough generously with olive oil, dust with ½ cup of grated hard cheese, and spread over 2 cups of fresh
  tomato sauce
  . Drizzle on more olive oil, sprinkle on ½ cup or so of grated mozzarella cheese; a sprinkle of thyme, oregano, or Italian herbs; and a little salt and pepper. Drizzle on more oil and another ½-cup dusting of grated hard cheese.
  

  Slide onto hot baking stone and bake 10 to 15 minutes, or until top is bubbling, edges have puffed, and bottom is crisped. Prepare second pizza while first is baking.