Life on Wheels (88 page)

The usual slope recommended for ramps is 1:12, which means that, for every one inch of vertical rise, there are 12 inches of horizontal run. This angle can be too steep for some chair riders, as well as for some people who walk, or in winter or rainy conditions. A gentler slope of 1:20 is likely to be usable by most people. Figure 7-2 shows the difference between a 1:12 and a 1:20 slope. At 1:12 or greater, most codes recommend or require handrails, so another advantage of less slope is less visual clutter from handrails—and lower construction costs.

The angle you choose also depends on space. The less the angle of slope, the more distance the ramp will run. If there isn’t much room, more slope might be the only solution. Some riders do have the strength to climb slopes even greater than 1:12. But, no matter how strong you are, when you have a bag of groceries in your lap, you can’t climb as easily because you can’t involve your upper body, since your load will prevent you from leaning forward as you push. And, of course, there is a point at which too much slope will be likely to cause the wheelchair to tip back altogether.

The ramp does not have to run in a continuous rise but can “switch back,” making a turn and coming back in the opposite direction. Or you can use a dog-leg design that makes one 90° turn—an approach that can be used to run part of an exterior ramp along the side of the house, minimizing its visual impact. Such designs need a level landing at the turn. All ramps must have a level landing of five feet for every 30 inches of rise, providing manual wheelers a brief respite from pushing uphill or braking down, as well as the option to pause if desired. Tenenbaum emphasizes the need for a landing before a doorway:

Managing a sloped surface while opening a door is very difficult. You will also want to provide enough level surface on the side of the opening edge of the door so you can be clear of the door when it swings open.

Ramps of concrete and asphalt are ideal surfaces that require little maintenance, but, for rises of more than one foot, these materials will usually not be practical. Too much concrete or asphalt can crack under its own weight. Wood or metal grating is used for ramp surfaces. If you are using metal grating, be certain that openings are not large enough to catch a crutch tip or a shoe heel. Take drainage into account so that the surface will stay dry and free of puddles.

Handrails are an important safety element of a ramp, just as they are for a stairway, and are usually advisable even with a gentle slope. Provide handrails on both sides. Some chair riders prefer to pull themselves up the ramp by grabbing the handrails, which is sometimes easier than pushing the wheels. Wood railings must be well finished so that there are no splinters. Other materials, such as metal, can solve this problem but might not be appropriate for winter climates. Rails should not be more than one and a half inches in diameter so that they can be gripped reliably. A round shape is best. Handrails should not be too close to the wall—one and a half inches is recommended. Handrails should extend one foot beyond the bottom and top of the ramp so that it is possible to have support as you approach the rise and until you reach secure, level ground. For exterior ramps, provide for nighttime lighting.

A ramp has a strong visual impact. Take into account the design of your home, and use compatible materials, colors, and patterns. You want to avoid communicating, “A disabled person lives here and we had to make our home ugly because of it.” Rather, you want the design to communicate, “Our home is a place that welcomes everybody.” Landscaping can better integrate the ramp into the design of the home.

A poorly designed and aggressively installed ramp can indeed affect the value of your home. Ron Mace observed:

You don’t want to build a ramp in a way that will feed into these attitudes. Regrading is desirable, if possible, or you could install the ramp in a way that it is easily removed but still structurally sound. Alternatively, perhaps the ramp could go inside a garage; this can be the most convenient place if you will be driving and typically enter the home through the garage door. Putting the ramp in a garage also protects the ramp—and the person using it—from weather.

Temporary ramps are often acquired or built. In some public settings, a removable ramp might just get left in place rather than building something more permanent. Inspect such a temporary ramp for stability:

Portable ramps in various lengths are available for sale. Some are individual tracks that you set a proper distance apart to accommodate wheel position. This design makes them lighter overall and easier to transport, but either track can shift independently out of position. Other types are full width, some of which fold up to reduce their bulk for transporting. Check what weight these ramps can handle. If you are a large person in a power chair equipped with a recline system and a ventilator, you might find yourself having an experience similar to this man with his new, portable metal ramp:

Ramping inside the house is more problematic, since there is less available space. There is a tendency to keep the ramp from taking up too much precious floor space by making it shorter and steeper. But the steeper the ramp, the more likely you are to lose control going down, get stuck on your footrests at the bottom, not have the strength to push yourself up it, or tip over backward in the effort. If you are in peak condition, you might have no trouble, but, as you age—or when you become ill or tired—such a ramp could become more of an obstacle and risk. In general, building next to a wall is advised because it allows you to put a handrail on at least one side of the ramp.

In 1991, the Minnesota Center of Independent Living (MCIL) developed the Ramp Project, which has helped people build quality, appropriate, exterior ramps for very low cost. Their program is based on the use of volunteers who pitch in to help construct and move ramps. MCIL reports that many ramps have been reused in different locations thanks to their modular approach, which was reviewed and modified by a professional engineer.

The plans for these ramps—with specific structural details—are available from MCIL for a modest price. They offer a booklet that includes planning guidelines and also discusses issues such as permit approval and how to order materials.

MCIL has developed a modular ramp system that requires no footings. That means it is not necessary to dig down into the earth to set posts in stone or concrete below the frost line—the usual construction approach. Their design is stable and does not have problems with shifting.

Lifts can be used as a way to get to an outside entry or up interior stairs. They have some disadvantages but can be a solution when nothing else works.

Many homes have a front porch with perhaps four or five steps, a driveway next to the house, and small front yard. There just is not space for a ramp. A mechanical lift would be the solution. Ron Mace said:

A lift can cost as much, if not more, than constructing a ramp. Being mechanical, it can break down. Although landscaping can conceal the lift, and you can locate it in the least conspicuous place you can manage, lifts are bulky, and it is more difficult to integrate one into the appearance of your home. An exception is the Everhard lift, which is enclosed in a concrete pit underground.

It is important to take care of a lift: keep it lubricated, observe weight limits, and have the dealer make regularly scheduled maintenance checks. Lifts need more maintenance in winter environments.

For interior stairs, a vertical platform lift could be a solution for a short run of four or five steps but not for a full flight of stairs. Stairway lifts are available that consist of a seat that rides a rail along literally any stair configuration. One must have sufficient transfer and balance skills to use one safely—and another wheelchair to use at the top. Installation of a full elevator is a much more elaborate and expensive undertaking, but it is an option if you have the resources and space—which might mean giving up a precious walk-in closet, for instance. Elevators do not have to look commercial or institutional. For instance, the elevator door could be designed so that it looks like a normal interior door.

Doors are the most likely bottleneck to free movement through the home. A number of conditions could make a door an obstacle. A doorway should

Have sufficient maneuvering space at the approach

Be wide enough for a wheelchair to pass easily