Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (171 page)

1)
The potato mixture

2½ lbs. “baking” potatoes all of a size for even cooking (6 or 7 potatoes 4½ by 2 inches, for instance)

A heavy-bottomed saucepan

Cold water

1½ tsp salt per quart of water

A cover for the pan

A colander or sieve

A potato ricer, or a food mill with medium disk, or an electric mixer

A quart measure

A rubber spatula and a wooden spoon

6 egg yolks in a small bowl

6 Tb soft butter

4 to 6 Tb
crème fraîche
or heavy cream

¾ to 1 tsp salt

⅛ tsp white pepper

Pinch of nutmeg

A pan of hot but not simmering water large enough to hold potato pan

Scrub the potatoes under warm water, drop into saucepan of cold water to cover, add salt, and set over high heat. When water comes to the boil, boil slowly, partially covered, for about 25 minutes usually. Test for doneness by cutting a potato in half, taking a slice from inside the half and eating it: potato should hold its shape, but should be cooked through, tender, mealy, and ready to eat. Drain, and peel at once, holding potato on a fork. Immediately put potatoes through a ricer or food mill, or beat with electric mixer, to make a smooth, lump-free purée. Measure 4 cups into saucepan and stir over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes until potatoes film bottom of pan, indicating that most of excess moisture has evaporated. Remove from heat, beat in the egg yolks, then the butter and 4 tablespoons of the cream. Beat in a little more cream by dribbles if you think the potatoes will take it, but mixture must be fairly firm so that it will hold its shape when formed. Beat in the salt, pepper, and nutmeg; taste carefully and correct seasoning as necessary. Set potato pan in pan of hot water.

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: Potatoes must be warm if you are to form them smoothly and easily. If you are not quite ready, cover pan partially and beat rather frequently with a wooden spoon. Note that warm potatoes are never covered airtight; a slight circulation of air prevents them from developing an off taste.

2)
Forming a fluted border of pommes duchesse

A wooden spoon

The warm
pommes duchesse
mixture

A rubber spatula

A 12- to 14-inch canvas pastry bag with ¾-inch cannelated nozzle

A lightly buttered, flameproof serving platter, such as a 12- by 14-inch oval

Vigorously beat the warm potato mixture to be sure it is smooth and pliable, then scoop into pastry bag.
Squeeze out into a decorative design around the edge of the platter.

2 to 3 Tb finely grated Swiss or Parmesan cheese

3 to 4 Tb melted butter

Sprinkle the potatoes with a dusting of cheese and dribble on melted butter. (Although egg glaze may be used and gives better over-all color, we do not like the taste and texture of egg film when it has hardened over the browned potatoes.)

(*)
AHEAD-OF-TIME NOTE
: Set aside; cover loosely when cool and refrigerate.

3)
Browning and serving

Either bake in upper third of a preheated 400-degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes until lightly browned, or brown slowly for 5 minutes or so under a slow broiler. Browning under the broiler leaves a moister texture but you must watch carefully that the potatoes do not burn. Once browned, serve as soon as possible because the potatoes will taste dry and stale if cooled and reheated.

VARIATIONS

Individual Nests or Mounds of Pommes Duchesse

Using the same general method as described in the Master Recipe, flute individual nests of the potato mixture on buttered heatproof serving dishes, shells, or plates; sprinkle the potatoes with cheese and melted butter, and brown as described in Step 3. For individual mounds squeeze the potatoes out on a buttered baking sheet and proceed in the same manner, lifting them off with a spatula for serving.

Pommes Duchesse au Fromage

[Cheese Flavored
Pommes Duchesse
]

For cheese-flavored
pommes duchesse,
which you may use in any of the preceding or following suggestions, beat ⅓ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese into the finished potato mixture in Step 1 of the Master Recipe (1 tablespoon of cheese for every cup of the potato mixture). In this case, because the cheese is strong, you may use instant mashed potatoes, adding the minimum amount of liquid suggested on the package, so that you may beat in enough cream to give the potatoes flavor and interest without making them too soft to form.