Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 2 (79 page)

When you are roasting the whole tenderloin,
turn the last 2 inches of the tail back under its ridged side
to make the roast even in diameter throughout its length.

When you wish to tie the meat without larding it, tie or wind firm loops of string around the circumference at 1¼-inch intervals
.

To lard and tie the meat, drape pork fat or suet over the top of the meat and down under the folded tail to hold it in place. Tie a loop of string around the length of the meat
. (If you do not have long strips of fat, overlap short ones as shown in the illustrations.)

Then arrange strips of fat over the sides of the meat; tie loops of string around the circumference
.

If you can find or order caul fat, that marvelous membrane webbed with fat that comes from inside the pig, it is perfect for wrapping a tenderloin that is roasted with a covering of mushroom
duxelles
or
mirepoix
, or for the sliced,
stuffed tenderloin
.
Here the tenderloin is laid on the caul fat and the flavoring is being spread over it
.

Fold a double thickness of caul fat around the meat to enclose it completely, and tie in place
. The caul fat browns and tends to merge with the meat and stuffing.