Modernist Cooking Made Easy (22 page)

T
OMATILLO
P
UDDING

This tomatillo fluid gel has almost a pudding like consistency. It is a great topping for sliced skirt steak or chicken breast. I also use it as a sauce for hors d’oeuvres, like the salmon cracker shown above.

I give recommendations for the amount of honey to add but tomatillos can vary greatly in their sweetness so you might need more or less. You can also use an immersion blender for the initial pureeing of the tomatillos but it will be a little less smooth of a puree.

Tools Needed

Agar

Standing or immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

400 grams tomatillos, dehusked, washed, and stem removed

42 grams honey, about 2 tablespoons

Salt and pepper

4 grams agar, 1.0%

0.4-1.6 grams xanthan gum, optional, 0.1% - 0.4%

Place the tomatillos in the standing blender and add the honey. Puree until smooth. Salt and pepper to taste.

Add the agar and blend until combined.

Pour the tomatillo puree into a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Let simmer for 3 to 5 minutes. Pour the tomatillo puree into a container and let it completely set.

Once it is set, cube the gel. Puree the tomatillo gel using a blender, immersion blender, or food processor until smooth. Add some water if you need to thin it, or some xanthan gum to thicken it.

Once it reaches the desired consistency it is ready to be served.

A
GAR
F
OAMS

Agar can also be used to make various types of foams ranging from light, coarse foams to thick, fine foams. Agar foams are usually made with a whipping siphon for easy aeration.

Agar foams can be either hot or cold. You can add other ingredients such as xanthan gum, gelatin, and locust bean gum, to help control the density of the foam.

Agar Foaming Process

Making agar foams builds on the process of making agar gels and fluid gels. You first make an agar gel, puree it into a fluid gel, and then place it into the whipping siphon.

Agar Foaming Ratios

The more agar you use the denser the resulting foam will be. For light foams, a ratio of 0.3% to 1% works well. For denser foams 1% to 2% is recommended. You can also add gelatin, locust bean gum, or xanthan gum, to change the density of the foam.

H
OT
L
OBSTER
B
ISQUE
F
OAM

I first had a similar foam to this at Seasonal, a restaurant in New York City that serves modern Austrian food. They used it as a topping for poached lobster and a soft boiled egg. The foam adds a great base of flavor to the whole dish.

Since my wife loves lobster I decided to try and recreate it at home. Sometimes I will make my own lobster stock but often times I will just buy some from my local fish market. Any smooth lobster bisque will work but I aim for a thinner bisque for finer bubbles. Depending on the thickness of the bisque you may need to use more or less agar. You can also add some xanthan gum to thicken the fluid gel if you need.

Tools Needed

Agar

Xanthan gum, optional

Standing or immersion blender

Whipping siphon

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

500 grams fresh lobster stock

2.5 grams agar, 0.5%

0.5-2 grams xanthan gum, optional, 0.1% - 0.4%

Blend the lobster stock and agar together.

Pour the lobster stock into a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Let simmer for 3 to 5 minutes then pour into a container and let it completely set.

Once it is set, cube the gel and puree with a blender until smooth. Add some water if you need to thin it, or some xanthan gum to thicken it.

Pour the fluid gel into your whipping siphon and charge. Heat the whipper in hot water until it is warm, I tend to use water between 55ºC / 131ºF to 60.5ºC / 141ºF because that is what my sous vide machine is running at but any water below 80ºC / 175ºF should be fine.

Once the bisque has come up to temperature you can dispense it onto your dishes.

C
ARRAGEENAN

We are constantly adding recipes to our website as we continue to experiment with modernist cooking. Maybe something there will inspire you.

You can find them at:

www.modernistcookingmadeeasy.com/info/modernist-recipes

Carrageenan is a natural extract from red seaweed. Carrageenan has been used for hundreds of years in Ireland and Europe to turn milk into pudding.

When carrageenan is processed, it is sorted into three different kinds: iota, kappa, and lambda. Each type of carrageenan has unique properties. The three types can also be combined with each other to create a variety of textures in gels.

Iota and kappa are the most commonly used and we will look at them in depth.

Carrageenan works very well with dairy products. The carrageenan reacts with the proteins in the dairy and is much more efficient in dairy products.

D
ISPERSION AND
H
YDRATION

Both iota and kappa carrageenan are dispersed and hydrated in a similar way.

Dispersion

Iota and kappa carrageenan are best dispersed in cool liquids. This will prevent hydration until the liquid is heated. A standing or immersion blender is the preferred tool to disperse the carrageenan.

Hydration

Iota and kappa carrageenan both become hydrated above 70ºC / 158ºF so the liquid will have to be heated.

I
OTA
C
ARRAGEENAN
A
T A
G
LANCE

Common Names

Iota Carrageenan

Basic Ratios By Weight

0.02-0.04% thicken dairy

0.75-1.5% gels

0.4-1.5% dairy gels

0.1-1% dairy fluid gels when blended

0.2-1% foams from fluid gels

Dispersion Temperature

Cool

Hydration Temperature

Above 70ºC / 158ºF

Setting Temperature

40-70ºC / 104-158ºF, depending on calcium and ions present

Melting Temperature

About 5-10ºC / 9-18ºF above setting temperature

I
OTA
C
ARRAGEENAN

Iota carrageenan can be used to thicken liquids, stabilize emulsions or foams, and create gels. It is often used with dairy products because it reacts with the calcium in the dairy and is much more effective. The calcium also can be used to create elastic gels.

Iota carrageenan does not hydrate well with sugar and so sugar should be added after the hydration process is completed.

I
OTA
C
ARRAGEENAN
T
HICKENING

The simplest application of iota carrageenan is the thickening of dairy products. Adding iota carrageenan to dairy based drinks is a great way to add thickness and improve mouthfeel.

Iota Carrageenan Thickening Process

To thicken a dairy-based liquid first disperse the iota carrageenan into the liquid when it is cold. Next, heat the liquid above 70ºC / 158ºF to hydrate the iota carrageenan. Let the liquid cool and it will become thicker.

Iota Carrageenan Gel Ratios

The amount of thickening that will occur depends on how much iota carrageenan you add. Typically a ratio of 0.02% to 0.04% will result in a good amount of thickening.

C
HIPOTLE
C
HOCOLATE
M
ILK

I love a good chocolate milk, especially when it has some added heat from chipotle peppers. It’s very easy to make and can last in the fridge for several days if you want to make a larger quantity.

I’ve given my preferences for chocolate milk in the recipe but feel free to adjust the amounts of sugar, cocoa powder, and hot sauce to your own tastes. You can also make this a low-fat recipe by using skim milk and increasing the amount of iota carrageenan to 0.15. Substituting honey or agave syrup is also a good way to subtly change the flavors.

Tools Needed

Iota carrageenan

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

500 grams milk, preferably 2% or whole, about 2 cups

0.1 grams iota carrageenan, 0.02%

10 grams cocoa powder, about 2 teaspoons

1-4 drops chipotle hot sauce, to taste

16 grams white sugar, about 2 teaspoons

Place 250 grams of the milk in a pot. Mix in the iota carrageenan with an immersion blender until combined well. Bring the milk to a simmer over medium to medium-high heat and blend again for 30 to 60 seconds with the immersion blender to ensure even distribution and full hydration.