Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor (56 page)

knots (
pains à l
’
anise
), 33

Holley, André, 335

Kurti, Nicholas, 11, 68, 280

hundred-year-old eggs, 303–5

hybrid vegetables, 181

lactic acid, 173, 206, 207, 209

lactic bacteria, 134, 316

ice cubes, for clarifying stock, 26–27

Lactobacillus bulgaricus
, 209

Ikeda, Kikunae, 97

Lactococcus lactis
, 317

insulin, 86

lactones in bread dough, 136

iron, ferrous and ferric, 48

lactose, 206, 207, 209

isodityrosine, 132

Lahaye, Marc, 197, 198

Issanchou, Sylvie, 119

Laminaria digitata
algae, 198

368 | inde x

land and landscape, for food production.

low-temperature cooking, 168

See terroirs

Lucas, Peter, 109, 110

Lapointe, François-Joseph, 266, 267

lyase, 237

Laroche, Michel, 164, 165, 288, 289

latex, allergies to, 121

macaroons, 33

Lavigne-Cruege, Valérie, 248–49

Maillard, Louis-Camille, 5–6, 170

Lavigne, Frédéric, 286–87

Maillard reactions: enhanced with vinegar

Lavoisier, Antoine-Laurent, xi, 4

or bicarbonate of soda, 284; fat es-

Lebon, Éric, 233, 234

sential to, 291; problem of controlled

lecithin, 224

tests of, 171–72; products as aromatic

l’Écluse, Charles de, 180

components of heated foods, 170; of

Lecq, Guy, 224, 225

sugars with amino acids or proteins,

Lefebvre, Jacques, 149, 150, 151, 178,

156, 170, 227

194, 195

malic acid, 45

Lef èvre, Florence, 41

Malvy, Joël, 258

Legendre, Pierre, 266, 267

Margolskee, Robert, 91, 92

Lehuédé, Patrick, 260, 261–62

marinating, of beef, 53–55

Le Meste, Martine, 231

Marin, François, 3, 4

lemon juice: added to pasta cooking water,

Martin, Bruno, 242

178; added to tea, 273; protective effect

mashed potatoes, 194–96

against discoloration, 56

mass spectrometry, 152

lentils, softening of, 59–61

mastication: Brillat-Savarin on, 12–15, 109,

Leseigneur, Anne, 171

117; effect on release of aromas, 116–17;

lettuce, effect of salt on, 73

for enjoyment, 110–11; and meat’s ten-

Liebig, Justus von, xi, 5, 24–25

derness and juiciness, 112–14; process

Linforth, Rob, 115, 116

of, 109–11

lipids: in flesh of fish, 164–65, 166; impor-

Mathiot, Ginette, 73

tance of for flavor of meat, 170, 171; as

Mathonière, Christèle, 112

indispensable, 291–93; perfume mak-

Maujean, Alain, 258

ers’s use of fat, 292; starch substituted

mayonnaise: acidity and beating, 142; aioli

for, in liver mousse, 288

as relative of, 297; “broken” (sepa-

liposomes, 190

rated), 11, 17, 295, 300; cooking and

lipstick, effect on champagne fizz, 262,

replacing oil with chocolate, 326–27; as

272

emulsion, 17, 138–39, 294–95; quanti-

listeriosis, 124–26

ties from one egg yolk, 295, 300; stabi-

liver mousse, 288–90

lization of, 138–39; yolkless and eggless

Loewe-Stanienda, Britta, 251

varieties, 295–96, 301, 325, 326

Loiseau, Bernard, 26

meat: “aioli” from, 298; basting, 291; col-

Loisel, Christophe, 224, 225

lagen and boiling versus roasting, 174;

Lorient, Denis, 209

cooking times for, 167–69; effect of

Index
| 369

meat (
continued
)

molecular gastronomy, xi, 1–3, 11, 12

cold storage on, 113, 114; juices in, 10,

monosodium glutamate, 86–87, 97;
see

47–49, 112–14; liquid, absorption of,

also
glutamate

25; liquid, reintroducing with syringe,

Montel, Marie-Christine, 152

49; recipe possibilities using double-

moon, influence on sugar in grapes, 265

cooking methods, 310–11; restructuring

Morlat, René, 234

with textural additive, 313–15; roasted,

Mosalux, 257, 258

flavor and fat content, 170–72; sear-

Mottram, Donald, 171

ing, fallacy of, 11, 48; transformations

Mouly, Anne-Marie, 335

caused by cooking, 329

mousse: Chantilly cream varieties, 298–

meat stock.
See
stock

99, 319–21; cheese, 298; chocolate,

medical considerations.
See
health effects,

319–20; as foam, 298; liver, 288–90

adverse

Moutounet, Michel, 245

medicine: analgesic effect of capsaicin,

Mulder, Gerardus Johannes, 228

105; food as, 83–84

muscle fibers of meat, 47, 50, 51, 173–75

melanoidins, 170

mushrooms: aroma of, 283; making cepe

meltability, as aspect of texture, 289–90

mushroom-scented oil, 293; packag-

membrane channel proteins, 104

ing for retention of freshness, 182–84;

Menon, M., 168

truffles, 185–87

meringues: quantities from one egg white,

myofibrillar proteins, 42, 174–75

301; rising, 12; vacuum storage versus

myoglobin, 48

heating, 280–81

myosin (myofibrillary protein), 42, 314, 329

metabotropic glutamate receptor

myosin gels, 314–15

(mGluR4), 98, 99

metallic salts, effect on red fruits, 66

neophobia, 85

micelles, of casein, 45, 195, 209, 213,

neurotransmitters, glutamate, 86–87,

285–86

97–99

microfluidizers, 210

Nicklaus, Sophie, 119, 206

Mielle, Patrick, 335–36

Nicolaïdis, Stylianos, 86

milk: added to tea, 274; allergic reactions

Nicolas, Jacques, 58

to, 121, 122–23; casein proteins in,

noses: artificial, 335; human, 200

44–45, 122–23, 195, 209, 214; for cool-

ing coffee, 77; as emulsion, 209; gela-

Oates, John, 84

tinizing without destabilizing, 212–14;

odorant molecules: attempts to trap for

mashing potatoes with, 195–96

better flavor, 188–90; as components

milk products: butter, 285–87; yogurt, 7,

of aroma, 141–42; as components of

153, 209–11, 212;
see also
cheeses

flavor, 115–16; human nose for detec-

mineral salts, in goat cheese, 206, 207

tion of, 200; in lactic bacteria, 316–17;

Mioche, Laurence, 112

loss with water evaporation from

mistelles
, 269–70

sausage, 153; micro- and macrocom-

370 | inde x

partmentalization of, 190; release and

Pardo, Marie-Paule, 52

migration of, 143–45; retention in

Pardon, Patrick, 124, 126

solution, 189; slowing evaporation of,

parietal tissue, as pectin and cellulose, 60

189–90;
see also
aromas; aromatic com-

Parmentier, Antoine-Augustin, 4

pounds; olfaction

particles in broth, segregation of, 26–28

oenology.
See
wine making

pasta: chewing, 190; cooking, 178; making,

Offant, Pierre, 60

176, 177; role of starch granules and

oil: considerations of temperature, 10;

egg and flour proteins in, 176

droplet size in vinegar-based salad

Pasteurization, 57

dressings, 144–45; French fried pota-

pastries, making with chocolate, 322–24

toes in, 191–93; preventing pasta from

pathogens:
Listeria
, 124–26; prevention in

sticking, 176, 178; souffléed potatoes

cheeses by lactic acid, 316

in, 63

peanuts, allergic reactions to, 121

Okuda, Kazudo, 53, 54

pectin: in cell walls of plants, 60, 221; as

olfaction: measurement of aromas, 115–17;

detergent for cleansing polluted water,

role of nasal cells, 91; salt in relation to,

222; for firming preserves, 66; recover-

94; theory of aromatization of foods,

ing by extrusion cooking, 221–23

140–42; via teleolfaction and telegus-

Péligot, Étienne, 228

tation, 334;
see also
aromas; aromatic

peptidases (enzymes), 45

compounds; odorant molecules

peptides, 206, 207

olive oil: Brillat-Savarin’s opinion of, 9

perfume makers’s use of fat, 292

Ollitrault, Rolande, 33, 51

Péron, Jean-Yves, 179

Ollivon, Michel, 224, 225, 286–87

peroxidase, 133

onions, “aioli” from, 297

pH (measure of acidity): effect on stability

Oozawa, F., 213

of emulsions, 138–39; and role of cop-

osmosis: assumption of, as poor predicter,

per in preserves, 66; of water for cook-

73; and osmotic expansion, 305; role in

ing pasta, 178

aging of meat, 174

phenols, 161–62

Ouali, Ahmed, 173, 314

phenylthiocarbamide, 101

ovens, temperature control and calibra-

phospholipids, 171, 172

tion, 169

phosphorylation, 123

oxidant compounds, 133

physics, 11, 12, 18

oxygen: in champagne, 264–65; effect of

plants: as antioxidants, 162–63; fibers of,

polyphenol oxidase, 57

197; membranes of cells, 298;
see also

animals; mushrooms; vegetables

pains à l
’
anise
(jumbles or knots), 33

plastic champagne flutes, 261

Palmaria palmata
algae, 198

plastic film (plastic wrap): for packaging

Panoïotis, Frédéric, 74

fresh mushrooms, 182, 184; as wrap-

Papin, Denis, 3, 4

ping for sausage during curing pro-

Paquet, Denis, 209

cess, 154

Index
| 371

plastic stoppers for champagne bottles,

dissociation into amino acids, 316;

264

as electrically charged polymers, 150;

Platina (Bartholemeo Sacchi), 3

gamma-45 gliadin, 177; globular and

polydextroses, 229

nonglobular, 151; gluten as, 131; gustdu-

polymers, 150, 214, 230

cin, 91, 92, 93; ionization and electrical

polyosides, 213

charges, 304; lipids and, 138; mem-

polyphenols: oxidases, 57, 58; rate of oxida-

brane channel, 104; in membrane of

tion, 269–70; reaction with proteins,

nasal cells, 91; micelles, 45, 195, 209,

54–55; in soil eaten by
Colobus satanas

213, 285–86; myofibrillar, 42, 174–75;

monkeys, 85; in tartaric salt–saturated

odorant molecules and, 143; pasta

wines, 245; in tea, 273

and, 177–78; plasma and granular,

polysaccharides, 221

138–39; polyphenols with, 54–55; pro-

polyvinyl pyrrolidone, 57

lamins, 131–32; resilin, 133; solubility,

Pomiane, Édouard de, 6

138–39; Spanish hams, curing and,

potassium bromate, 133

156–57; taste of, detection of, 86–87;

potatoes: French fries, 191–93, 291;

as tensioactive molecules, 258, 259,

mashed, 194–96;
quatrième gamme

320; transducins, 92, 93; vr1, 104; as

fries, 192; souffléed, 62–64; starch

water-trapping gel, 42–43; wheat,

granules in, 38; turning brown after

gluten and sulfur atoms, 131; yogurt

cutting, 191, 192

and, 210–11

pots and pans.
See
kitchen equipment

proteolytic enzymes, 174–75

preserves and jam: optimizing sugar con-

puffed-up (souffléed) potatoes, 62–64

centrations, 218–20; pots and pans for

puff pastries: expansion of, 33; making

preparing, 65–67; problem of failure

with chocolate, 322–23

to set, 221

Pygmies, 84

primates: monkeys eating soil, 83; recogni-

tion of sweetness, 83–84

quality of ingredients, 6

Prinz, Jons, 109, 110

quenelles: kneading of, 41; preparing and

prolamins, 131–32

cooking, 33, 41–43; reasons for puffing

protected designation of origin (
appellation

up, 32

d’origine contrôlée
):
cartagènes
(
mistelles
)

quiche, expansion of, 32–34

apéritifs, 269–71; cheeses, 200–202;

quinine, 101

relationship between land and its prod-

ucts, 203, 233; scotch whiskey’s
terroirs
,

Ralet, Marie-Christine, 221, 223

266–68; Spanish hams, 155–57

raw milk cheeses, 126, 200, 204

protein films, 149–50

Raymond, Michel, 185

proteins: acidity of solution, 43; casein,

recipes: Chantilly cheese, 298–99, 330;

44–45, 122–23, 151, 195, 209, 214;

Chantilly chocolate, 319–21; cheese bé-

champagne’s foam, 258–59; coagula-

arnaise, 329–30; chocolate in pastries,

tion of during cooking, 10, 31, 33, 47;

322–24; doubtful, 11; foamy foie gras,

372 | inde x

329; improving, 17; possibilities using

salmon, smoking, 306–8

double-cooking methods, 310–11; tur-

salt: altering bitter and sweet flavors,

key with flavor variations, 329

94–96; curing of Spanish hams, 155;

refrigeration.
See
cold storage; temperature

deficiency of, 84; effect on vegetables,

considerations

73; enhancing sour note in goat cheese,

Renard, Catherine, 221, 223

207–8; metallic, effect on red fruits,

rennet, 45, 317