Ruhlman's Twenty (17 page)

This easy cheesecake is very dense and rich in the traditional New York style. It’s effectively a custard using cream cheese. The custard cooks gently in the heat of the water bath, resulting in a cheesecake with a smooth top and no cracks, worth the extra effort.

CRUST:

1½ cups/150 grams fine graham cracker/digestive biscuit crumbs (from about 10 whole crackers)

1½ cups/300 grams sugar

6 tablespoons/85 grams butter, melted

FILLING:

2½ pounds/1.2 kilograms cream/soft cheese, at room temperature

½ cup/120 milliliters sour cream

1¾ cups/350 grams sugar

7 large eggs

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon lemon juice, or more to taste

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

MAKE THE CRUST:
In a medium bowl, combine the cracker crumbs and sugar. Pour the butter over the crumbs and sugar and stir until the ingredients are evenly moistened. Press the mixture into the bottom of a 9-inch/23-centimeter springform pan/loose-bottomed tin. Bake until the crust is browned and set, about 10 minutes.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil for a water bath
. Wrap the bottom of the cheesecake pan in a few sheets of heavy-duty, extra-wide aluminum foil to prevent water from seeping into the crust. It’s best if the foil goes all the way up the sides, so that water doesn’t get in. Heavy-duty, extra-wide foil works best because you only need one sheet.

MAKE THE FILLING:
Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream/ soft cheese until softened. Add the sour cream and beat on low speed as you add the sugar. Continue to beat until combined. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula, and beat again.

In a medium bowl, combine the eggs, lemon zest and juice, and vanilla, and whisk until combined. With the mixer on medium speed, slowly pour the egg mixture into the cheese mixture. Raise the speed to high, and beat to make sure everything is well combined. Taste the filling; if it needs a little more acidity, add some more lemon juice.

Put the cheesecake pan into a roasting pan/tray and pour the filling into crust. Fill the roasting pan/tray with enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the cheesecake pan. Put the roasting pan in the oven. Bake until the center is set, 1 to 1½ hours.

Allow the cheesecake to cool, then refrigerate until completely chilled. This can be made up to 2 days before serving, covered in plastic wrap/ cling film. Serve cold or at room temperature.

When creating a pizza (or any dish for that matter), think of ingredients that go well together in other circumstances. Is there any pairing more entrenched in American cuisine than bacon and eggs? They are great for breakfast, but I will wager that they are even better when served on a pizza. Eggs and bacon—with melted cheese? To quote Emeril, “Oh, yeah, babe.” And the crust makes a handy tool for swiping up the yolk that spills onto the plate. The bacon and egg pizza should be a standard in your house—with the simple pizza dough, there’s no reason it shouldn’t be.

1 disk
Pizza Dough

Olive oil

Kosher salt

1 cup/150 grams grated mozzarella

8 ounces/225 grams bacon, cut into strips or ¼-inch/6-millimeter lardons, cooked until tender and lightly browned, drained, and cooled

3 large eggs, each in a ramekin

Parmigiano-Reggiano

Chopped fresh parsley or arugula/rocket (optional)

Preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

Roll out the dough on floured surface to the desired size. I like to get it as thin as possible. Let the dough rest occasionally if it is difficult to roll. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet/tray (rimless, if you have one) or a pizza pan. If you cook the pizza on a stone, transfer it to parchment/baking paper.

Rub the dough all over with olive oil and give the periphery a sprinkling of salt. Scatter the mozzarella on the surface, leaving a 1-inch/ 2.5-centimeter rim uncovered. Roll the edges for a hearty crust. Scatter the bacon evenly over the top.

Bake until the pizza is two-thirds done, 15 to 20 minutes in my oven (the cheese should be melted and just beginning to brown). Remove the pizza from the oven, or pull the pan out if you can get complete access to the pizza. Using a ladle, press an indentation into each third of the pizza. Pour 1 egg into each indentation. Give the pizza a generous grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Continue to bake the pizza until the egg whites are set but the yolks remain fluid, 7 to 10 minutes more (keep a close eye on them).

Remove the pizza from the oven and garnish with parsley ( if using). Cut the pizza into thirds. If serving more than three people, cut through the middle of each yolk.