Simply Organic (13 page)

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

This fresh tuna salad is far superior to the canned version. Use it in sandwiches, too.

1 lemon, halved

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, or 2 teaspoons dried

6 ounces tuna loin or steak

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, minced

2 celery ribs, or 1 small fennel bulb, chopped

1½ tablespoons capers

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

2 teaspoons sugar

2 hard-cooked large eggs, peeled and chopped

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 cups mesclun or another salad blend

1 avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and sliced

Squeeze the juice from 1 lemon half into a medium bowl. Slice the other lemon half and place in a small skillet with 1 cup water and the dill. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add the tuna, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 6 minutes, or until the tuna is opaque. Drain and chill thoroughly.

Meanwhile, to the bowl with the lemon juice, add the oil, onion, celery or fennel, capers, mustard, parsley, and sugar, whisking to blend the mixture well. Set aside.

When the tuna is cold, break it into bite-size pieces. Add the tuna and eggs to the bowl with the lemon juice mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss gently to coat the tuna.

Divide the mesclun evenly among 4 plates. Top each bed of mesclun with a quarter of the tuna salad. Fan a quarter of the avocado to the side of each tuna salad.

VARIATIONS

I love old-fashioned tuna melts. Mound lots of the tuna salad on a slice of bread, cover with a few slices of Jarlsberg or Cheddar cheese, and warm under the broiler.

When tomatoes are in season, add a few slices to tuna salads or sandwiches.

MAKES
12
MEATBALLS

I like to use ground dark turkey meat because it is moist and gives the meatballs more flavor than breast meat. You can find the dark meat in the poultry section of the meat case at large natural foods markets. Be sure to buy sustainably raised turkey. Heritage breeds of pasture-raised turkey are pricier, but well worth the cost, both because of their good flavor and the way the birds are treated.

½ cup ketchup

2 tablespoons honey

1 whole canned chipotle chile pepper, puréed or minced

1½ pounds ground dark turkey or chicken meat

1 medium onion, grated

2 medium carrots, peeled and grated

¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

3 slices whole grain bread, torn into small pieces

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup chicken broth

1 large egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Generously oil a broiler pan or baking sheet with sides.

In a small bowl, combine the ketchup, honey, and chipotle. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the ground turkey, onion, carrots, parsley, bread, salt, and pepper.

In a small bowl, lightly beat the chicken broth and egg together and add to the meat mixture. Mix well and form into 12 meatballs. Place the meatballs on the prepared pan. Spread a scant tablespoon of the ketchup mixture on each meatball.

Bake the meatballs for about 15 minutes, until well browned, or until a thermometer inserted in the center of a meatball registers 165°F.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

I prefer to roast a chicken whole. I think the meat stays moister, and I just like the way it looks when served. There are a growing number of organic chicken farms all over the country. I’m often asked what makes a chicken organic. The simple answer is that the chicken is fed only organic feed and is not injected with hormones or given unnecessary antibiotics.

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 whole chicken (about 3 pounds)

1½ teaspoons olive oil

4 leeks (white and light green parts), thinly sliced and washed thoroughly

6 peaches, pitted and quartered

3 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, and cumin.

Rub the chicken with the oil and season generously with the cumin mixture. Place the chicken in a roasting pan.

In a large bowl, combine the leeks, peaches, brown sugar, tarragon, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Scatter the mixture around the bottom of the chicken in the pan.

Roast the chicken for 30 minutes. Stir the peaches occasionally to coat with the pan juices. Reduce the heat to 350°F and roast for 30 minutes more, or until a thermometer inserted in a breast registers 180°F and the juices run clear. Let stand for 10 minutes before carving.

Place the chicken on a platter, either whole or cut into pieces. Spoon the pan juices, leeks, and peaches over all.

MAKES
8
SERVINGS

My dad had a grocery store, and my uncle owned the local meat-processing plant. They sold kosher natural meats. Although I didn’t realize it at the time, the meat that my family ate was as close to organic as you could find in those days.

1 cup red raspberries

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

8 large or 16 small figs, quartered

2 ounces ham, chopped

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

¾ teaspoon garam masala

Freshly ground black pepper

8 boneless rib-eye or beef tenderloin steaks (about 2½ pounds total)

Salt

6 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat a broiler. Lightly oil the grill rack or broiler pan.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the raspberries, sugar, and vinegar. Simmer for 10 minutes, or until reduced by half. Set aside.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the figs, ham, rosemary, garam masala, and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the figs are very soft. Set aside and keep warm.

Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the steaks for 12 minutes, turning once, or until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.

Place each steak on a plate. Top with an equal amount of cheese and cover with some of the fig mixture. Drizzle a few tablespoons of the raspberry sauce over all. Serve the remaining fig mixture on the side.

ORGANIC TIP

These days, there are more options for finding well-raised cattle, which are freely grazed, free of growth hormones and antibiotics, and treated humanely. If you can find organic meat, always opt for it. I even buy frozen meat if it is organic. It’s always worth the extra money. Natural meat is the second-best choice.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

There are a handful of organic lamb companies around the country, and the lamb they produce is wonderful. I like lamb chops on the bone. Those who don’t pick them up with their fingers, enjoying every morsel, are missing out on the best part.

Matsutakes come from the Northwest—if you can’t find them, shiitakes are a delicious substitute.

8 rib or loin lamb chops

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 medium shallots, thinly sliced

4 ounces fresh matsutake mushrooms, thinly sliced

¼ cup cream sherry

2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram or oregano

1½ pounds fresh peas, shelled (about 1½ cups)

Prepare a hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill on high, or preheat the broiler. Lightly oil the grill rack or broiler pan.

Put the lamb in a medium bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, three-quarters of the garlic, and the rosemary, and season well with salt and pepper. Toss to coat the lamb. Let stand for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add the shallots and remaining garlic and cook for about 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the mushrooms, sherry, and marjoram or oregano and cook until the mushrooms begin to soften. Remove from the heat and set the saucepan aside.

Grill or broil the chops for 5 minutes, turning once, or until browned and a thermometer inserted in the center registers 145°F for medium-rare.

Just before serving, place the mushroom mixture over medium heat and add the peas. Cover the pan and cook for about 3 minutes, or until the peas are tender.

Divide the chops among 4 plates and top with the mushroom and peas.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

A few years ago, my dear friend Michael Romano, the chef at Union Square Cafe in New York City, took me to his home in the Hamptons. Rather than going out to eat as we always do when in the city, he cooked for me. We drank good wine and laughed and cried as friends sometimes do. But the most memorable part of the actual meal was his cipollini onions. This is my interpretation of his recipe.

1 cup ruby port

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 cup vegetable or chicken broth

8 ounces cipollini onions or other small onions

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ teaspoon salt

Pinch of red-pepper flakes (optional)

Combine the port, thyme, and ½ cup of the broth in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the onions are very soft. Add the remaining ½ cup broth when all of the liquid evaporates.

When the onions are cooked, you should have ¼ cup reduced sauce. If you have more sauce, uncover and simmer over medium-high heat until reduced to ¼ cup. Add the brown sugar, butter, salt, and pepper flakes (if desired) and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.

KITCHEN TIP

Cipollini onions are ideal to cook alongside roasting meats or chicken. Add them at the very beginning; they impart flavor and also serve as a side dish.

MAKES
6
SERVINGS

Summer squash is an underrated vegetable. Because it is available year-round and is reasonably inexpensive and easy to prepare, it is not used when at its best: in late spring and early summer. These stuffed squash are a wonderful side dish for so many main courses, including fish and poultry. If you can’t find fresh morels, substitute chanterelles or shiitakes.

6 medium pattypan squash

1½ cups vegetable or chicken broth

5 whole peppercorns

1 bay leaf

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ red onion, finely chopped

4 ounces morel mushrooms, sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

½ cup chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano