Simply Organic (9 page)

I often leave out the cheese and nuts and add them later as a garnish. This makes the flavor of each ingredient in the pesto distinct.

1/3 cup pine nuts

3 cups chopped spring vegetables, such as carrots, asparagus, potatoes, celeriac, artichokes, and spring onions

1 pound arugula

2 to 3 garlic cloves

½ cup olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 ounces aged cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, hard Jack, or Grana Padano

Toast the pine nuts in a heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium-high heat, stirring often, until they turn a golden brown. Cool.

Fill a large bowl with water and ice and place next to the stove top. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the vegetables and blanch for 2 minutes, or until they are cooked but still have a little crunch or an invitingly tender texture. Using a slotted spoon, remove to the ice water. Once cooled, remove to a colander to drain.

In a food processor or blender, chop the arugula and garlic as finely as possible. Add enough olive oil to purée. Add the lemon juice and season generously with the salt and pepper. Remove to an airtight container.

Just before serving, arrange the vegetables artfully on a platter.

Either dollop the pesto on top or serve it in a small bowl. Sprinkle the vegetables with the pine nuts and shave plenty of cheese on top.

KITCHEN TIP

When chopping the vegetables, make them as uniform as possible so that all of the carrots, for example, are cooked through at the same time.

When blanching the vegetables, do so in stages, starting with those that take longer to cook or will impart more color or flavor to the cooking water. For this recipe, start with the potatoes, carrots, celeriac, and artichokes, followed by the asparagus and tender young spring onions.

MAKES
8
SERVINGS

This lovely, bright soup makes perfect use of the first sweet carrots that come out of the ground. I like it prepared as a creamy soup, but it is a bit easier and just as delicious to serve the soup somewhat chunky. Simply omit the puréeing step.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 large onions, thinly sliced

2 pounds carrots, thinly sliced

½ cup mirin cooking wine or apple juice

6 cups vegetable or chicken broth

¼ cup grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon curry powder

1 to 3 tablespoons honey

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon wasabi powder

1 cup sour cream or yogurt

4 green onions, chopped

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft. Add the carrots and wine or apple juice and cook for 3 minutes. Add the broth, ginger, and curry powder and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the carrots are very tender.

Remove from the heat. Working in batches, pour the soup into a food processor or blender. Process until smooth. Transfer to a soup tureen or large bowl. Stir in the honey, and salt and pepper to taste.

While the soup is cooking, in a small bowl, blend the wasabi powder with the sour cream or yogurt. Stir in the green onions.

Ladle the soup into bowls and top with a generous spoonful of the wasabi cream. Swirl the cream into the soup.

KITCHEN TIP

For an elegant touch, spoon the wasabi cream into a small pastry bag and pipe the cream onto the soup. Use a wooden pick to create a decorative design.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Gnocchi have become an all-time favorite around my house. I typically make far more than can be eaten at one meal. They freeze well and can be taken from the freezer and dropped directly into boiling water to cook. Try these gnocchi with a simple red sauce or drizzled with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and lots of grated Italian cheese.

15 ounces ricotta cheese

1 large egg, beaten

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 green onions, minced

½ cup grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)

1½ to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3 cups marinara sauce

Put the ricotta in a sieve and place over a bowl for 15 to 30 minutes to drain. Discard the liquid.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a medium bowl, combine the drained ricotta, egg, salt, pepper, green onions, and Asiago or Parmesan. Gradually add the flour, ¼ cup at a time, using your hands and blending just until the dough holds together. Remove 1 teaspoon of the dough and roll into a ball on a floured surface. Drop into the boiling water. If the piece falls apart, add more flour to the dough, 2 tablespoons at a time, until it will form a ball. Repeat the cooking test until the dough holds together and floats to the surface.

Divide the dough into 4 equal parts. On a generously floured board, using your hands, roll each section into a rope about 1 inch in diameter. Cut the ropes into 1-inch-long pieces and slightly indent with a fork. If you’re not using the gnocchi right away, cover them thoroughly with flour and store in the refrigerator or freezer.

Drop the gnocchi into the boiling water. Stir gently to prevent sticking. When the gnocchi float to the top, they are cooked. Remove with a slotted spoon to a serving bowl.

Meanwhile, heat the sauce in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Top the gnocchi with the sauce.

KITCHEN TIP

Gnocchi will keep in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 days and for months in the freezer in an airtight container.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Steaming fish in parchment is a wonderful way to seal in juices and create a spectacular presentation. In addition, the packages can be put together ahead of time and popped in the oven just before dinner. Always opt for unbleached parchment paper that’s as chemical-free as possible.

1 cup basmati or white rice

1½ cups chicken broth or water

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

4 ounces soft goat cheese, such as chèvre

½ cup raisins

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1½ tablespoons capers

4 wild salmon fillets (about 1 pound total)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Juice of 1 orange

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the rice, broth or water, mint, oil, and salt to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Do not remove the lid. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for at least 10 minutes. Just before serving, fluff with a fork.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450°F.

In a small bowl, combine the cheese, raisins, nutmeg, and capers.

Cut four 12-inch circles of parchment paper or foil. Rinse the salmon under cold water, pat dry, and place each on one half of the parchment or foil, about 1½ inches from the edge. Sprinkle each fillet with salt and pepper. Place one-quarter of the cheese mixture on top of each fillet. Sprinkle with one-quarter of the orange juice and the chives. Fold over the parchment and, starting at the edge of the half circle, using small folds, completely seal the fish and cheese mixture inside the parchment. Place the packets on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and place a packet on each of 4 plates.

Tear through the parchment with a sharp-tipped knife. Put the remaining orange juice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, reduce to about 3 tablespoons, and spoon over the cooked salmon. Serve with the rice.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS

Any fish broiled with this lively pesto is transformed into a glorious meal. I like it with boiled potatoes and the first-of-the-season baby carrots. Drizzle a little extra cold pesto on the vegetables. The sauce tastes different when served chilled.

1 cup firmly packed curly parsley, stems removed

1 garlic clove

2 tablespoons slivered almonds

¼ cup grated Parmesan or Asiago cheese (about 1 ounce)

Juice of 1 large lemon

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil (or enough to create a smooth, loose paste)

4 fresh or frozen fish fillets (about 1½ pounds total), such as Pacific halibut, Alaskan salmon, or Pacific sablefish

1 teaspoon paprika

Preheat the broiler. Lightly oil a broiler pan.

Combine the parsley, garlic, almonds, and cheese in a food processor or blender. Pulse until puréed. Add the lemon juice. With the machine running, gradually add the oil and purée until the sauce is smooth.

Brush both sides of the fillets with the pesto. Sprinkle with the paprika.

Place the fillets on the broiler pan and broil for 5 to 10 minutes, or until opaque.

VARIATIONS

I also like to serve this fish cold on top of a bed of salad greens, or pack it in a picnic basket along with a baguette for sandwiches in the park or on the beach.

MAKES
4
SERVINGS AND 2 CUPS OF DRESSING

At our catering company, we use this green goddess dressing throughout the spring and summer. It is especially good with asparagus, which is why this recipe is such a lovely way to combine fresh asparagus with leftover chicken.

½ cup chopped green onions

¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 garlic clove

1 tablespoon fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon fresh dill

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

½ cup sour cream or plain yogurt

½ cup buttermilk (see Organic Tip)

1½ teaspoons salt, plus extra for seasoning

1½ teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for seasoning

1 pound asparagus

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs or breasts, cut into bite-size pieces

Lettuce leaves for serving

4 whole spring onions, trimmed

In a food processor or blender, purée the green onions, parsley, garlic, tarragon, and dill. Add the vinegar, sour cream, buttermilk, salt, sugar, and pepper. Thin with water if necessary.

In a medium pot of boiling water, cook the asparagus for about 3 minutes, then remove with tongs or a slotted spoon and plunge in a bowl of ice water. Transfer to a large bowl.

Cook the chicken in the same water, drain, and plunge in the ice water to chill. Put in the bowl with the asparagus. Add enough dressing to coat generously, and toss the asparagus and chicken. Season with salt and pepper to taste.