4 chicken thighs
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon light olive oil
1 large onion, julienned
3 stalks celery, sliced on the diagonal
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
¼ cup raisins
1 fresh bay leaf
Sprig of thyme
Sprig of rosemary
1 cup white wine
2 tablespoons Creole mustard (see
Sources
), or any country-style whole-grain mustard
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh celery leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Season the chicken thighs on both sides with ¾ teaspoon of the sea salt and all of the ground pepper. Heat an ovenproof sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the olive oil. Once the pan is hot, add the chicken thighs, skin side down, and decrease the heat to medium. Cook the chicken until the skin is a nice golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the thighs over and cook for 1 more minute. Remove the chicken from the pan and place on a plate, skin side up.
Add the onion, celery, garlic, raisins, bay leaf, thyme, rosemary, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt to the pan. Cook the vegetables until nice and soft, about 5 more minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the white wine and mustard to the pan. Cook until the wine is reduced slightly, then add the stock and nestle the chicken thighs back into the pan, skin side up. The liquid should not cover the skin.
Cover the pan and braise the chicken in the oven for 25 minutes. Uncover the pan and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Transfer the chicken thighs to a plate. Add the heavy cream to the pan and place it over medium-high heat. Cook until the sauce begins to thicken, about 3 minutes.
Stir in the celery leaves and parsley, spoon the sauce over the chicken, and serve.
GRANDMA SUMMERVILLE’S BURGER
S
ERVES
6
As a boy, I always looked forward to visiting my Grandma Summerville in West Point, Mississippi. She made these burgers for us on every single visit. Her burger was unique, as was her cooking style in general. One example of this was she used more sugar in her cornbread, being a North Mississippian as oppossed to a South Mississipian like us. What is special about these burgers is their their texture—like a country meatloaf that melts in your mouth—and a binding technique similar to making a pâté. We like to eat this burger in a country fashion, between two pieces of thick buttery Texas toast.
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 large egg
3 cannned plum tomatoes, crushed
½ cup all-purpose flour
2½ pounds ground beef
1 tablespoon light olive oil
Hambuger buns and your favorite condiments, for serving
In a large bowl, combine the salt, pepper, Worcestershire, egg, tomatoes, flour, and beef together with your hands until thoroughly blended. Divide the mixture into six equal patties. Form the patties into rounds that are 4 inches in diameter and ½ inch thick. Chill the patties for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat a griddle (or a heavy, cast-iron pan) on medium heat and coat with the olive oil. Lay your patties on the griddle and cook for at least 5 minutes per side, forming a nice crust on the outside and making sure the patty is hot in the center.
Serve the burgers on your favorite bun with all the fixin’s.
Grilled Quail with Honey-Soy Butter
and
Sauté-Steamed Baby Bok Choy
GRILLED QUAIL WITH HONEY-SOY BUTTER
S
ERVES
4
One Sunday after church, Dad was driving my brother and me home on the back country roads of Tylertown, Mississippi. All of the sudden, our Dodge Ram Charger squealed to a stop. We boys didn’t know what was going on—until we saw in the middle of the cloud of ensuing dust a covey of quail crossing the road. Dad grabbed the shotgun from the back of the truck, hopped out, and, in his Sunday suit, popped a couple. Later that night, they were simply grilled and served as an appetizer. I still think grilling quail is the way to go, but I embellish it a bit with a shellac of honey and soy.
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
8 semi-boneless quail (rib cages removed for stuffing)
To cook the quail, be sure your grill is clean and nicely oiled. Preheat the grill until nice and hot.
Using a food processor, process the butter with the soy sauce, honey, garlic, and red pepper flakes until dark brown and creamy, about 2 minutes.
Stuff each quail with 1 tablespoon of the butter mixture, and using a pastry brush, brush it all over the skin as well. Season the quail with salt and pepper. Lay each quail, with space between them so they don’t touch, around the hottest spot of the grill. Grill on each side for about 30 seconds, constantly brushing the top with the butter mixture before flipping. Repeat this process for about 5 minutes, turning every 30 seconds, until the internal temperature of the quail registers 130°F on an instant-read thermometer, and the skin is lacquered.
Transfer the cooked quail to a platter and brush with the honey-soy butter before serving.
Venison Loin with Four Spices and Red Wine Bacon Jus
VENISON LOIN WITH FOUR SPICES AND RED WINE BACON JUS
S
ERVES
4
We are always surprised when our guests tell us they never liked venison before they tasted ours. We do love the compliment, but what a shame that so many poor deer are killed twice, first by a gun, then by an overzealous cook. We are speaking of the loin in particular, which when cooked just to medium-rare, is not gamey, but tender and buttery. Game meats are enhanced with the addition of sweetness and aromatic spices. We enjoy using French four spice—a mix of black peppercorns, cloves, nutmeg, and exotic ginger, and the bacon-scented sauce just takes it over the top.
1 (750 ml) bottle dry red wine
3 slices bacon
2 sprigs thyme
3 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground ginger
1½-pound venison loin
1 tablespoon light olive oil
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine the wine, bacon, thyme, and garlic and cook until the liquid reduces to ½ cup. Strain the reduction into a small saucepan and reserve.
To make the spice rub, using a clean coffee grinder (or one dedicated to grinding spices), grind together the peppercorns, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger until you have a fine powder. Season the venison thoroughly on all sides with the spice rub.
To cook the venison, heat a large sauté pan with olive oil over high heat until it is smoking. Carefully place the venison in the pan and sear it for 1 minute on all sides. Place the pan in the oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the venison reads 130°F. Let the venison rest on a wire rack for 5 minutes before slicing.
To make the sauce, heat the red wine reduction over low heat, then add the honey and champagne vinegar. Once the reduction comes to a slow simmer, whisk in the butter and remove the pan from the heat. Slice the venison into ¼-inch slices and serve with the red wine sauce.