Sugar Cube (22 page)
Authors: Kir Jensen
Warm puddings, cool ice creams, luscious custards, and icy sorbets—there’s something about spoonable desserts that strikes a deep chord in me and most other people, too. Is it the creamy, dreamy goodness? The way they’re effortless to eat? It’s likely both, and it all adds up to irresistible in my book. The desserts in this chapter are all built around versatile bases, from the Black Cow Panna Cotta to the Cherry Lambic Sorbet, which provide the perfect playground for adding fun additions like a reduced root beer drizzle or a tart lambic beer. It also means you can add your own creative impulses and pair them with the flavors and components you love best.
WITH RUBY GRAPEFRUIT AND CARA CARA ORANGES
Why limit risotto to the main course? It’s rice. Rice is happy in desserts. It’s time to free risotto from its chicken-stock bonds and let it frolic with sugar and spice and everything nice in a creamy, luscious last course. What’s so wonderful about this recipe, aside from its delicious decadence, is that it really can be topped with just about anything. Citrus provides a bright, tart flavor contrast, but fresh or roasted figs, sautéed apples, summer berries, or fruit compote of any kind would also go really well with it. Even a dark chocolate sauce would be awesome with the risotto’s citrus notes.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
fruit
- 1 ruby red grapefruit (about 12 to 13 ounces)
- 2 Cara Cara oranges (about 6 ounces each; see tip, following)
- 1 to 2 tablespoons granulated sugar or good honey
- 3
1
/
2
cups half-and-half - grated zest of 1 Cara Cara orange
- 1 vanilla bean
- 2 tablespoons (
1
/
4
stick) unsalted butter - 1 cup Arborio rice
- 1
/
2
cup heavy cream, plus extra as needed - 1
/
8
teaspoon sea salt - 1
/
4
cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar - 2 to 3 tablespoons Grand Marnier (optional but oh so good!)
- TO PREPARE THE FRUIT:
Use a sharp knife to slice the peel off the top and bottom of the grapefruit. Working on a flat surface, slice away the peel (including the white pith), following the curve of the fruit, on all sides. Working directly over a medium bowl to catch any juices and the segments as they are released, cut along the white membranes on both sides of each segment. With a Microplane, remove the zest from one of the oranges and set aside. Remove the segments of both oranges as you did with the grapefruit. (This technique is called supreming the citrus.) Sprinkle the segments with the granulated sugar and toss to combine. Allow to macerate at room temperature for 30 minutes. - TO MAKE THE RISOTTO:
In a medium saucepan combine the half-and-half and orange zest. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with the back of a knife. Add to the pan along with the pod and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat. - IN A LARGE SAUCEPAN
, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the rice and sauté until it begins to look translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add
1
/
2
cup of the half-and-half mixture and cook, stirring, until the liquid has been absorbed. Repeat this procedure until all the liquid has been absorbed and the rice is al dente (tender but not mushy, with just a hint of firmness in the middle), 25 minutes to 35 minutes. (Don’t discard the vanilla bean pod. Rinse, let dry, and save for another use.) - REDUCE THE HEAT
to low and stir the cream, salt, and superfine sugar into the risotto. Continue stirring until the cream has been absorbed and the rice is fully tender, another 5 minutes. (Taste the risotto. If the rice still seems too firm, you can add a little more cream or half-and-half and cook it a little longer.) Remove from the heat and stir in the Grand Marnier (if using). Let stand for several minutes before serving. - GIVE THE RISOTTO
one more stir before dividing it among serving bowls. Use a slotted spoon to scoop up the macerated citrus fruit, leaving the juices behind, and distribute it among the bowls to serve. (If the risotto has become too thick before serving, stir in a tablespoon or two of cream to loosen it up. It should be loose and creamy, not soupy or pasty.)
•
Refrigerate leftover risotto in an airtight container. Reheat with a little cream in the microwave or in a saucepan set over low heat.
•
Cara Cara oranges are a type of navel orange that has rosy flesh. They are low in acid and slightly sweeter than a regular orange, with hints of rose and berry flavors. Peak season for cara cara oranges is late November through January. Look for them at specialty markets. If you can’t find them, you can substitute tangerines.
•
When cooking the risotto, make sure the heat is not too high, or you will burn the rice and the liquid will evaporate before the rice can absorb it. Moderate heat and constant stirring are what you need to produce rich, creamy risotto that’s fully cooked.
(COFFEE ‘N’ DONUTS)
Tiramisu is a delightful thing—except for the ladyfingers. I don’t see the point of using anything that dry and tasteless in a dessert, even if it is soaked in espresso. If you’re going to dunk something in coffee, it should be a donut, right? Between the donuts, coffee, and Marsala-and-mascarpone–spiked cream, this is a seriously decadent dessert, and there’s a healthy hit of cinnamon to add another layer of flavor. It’s definitely dinner-party-worthy, and luckily you can make it up to a day ahead.
MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS
- 3 egg yolks
- 1
/
3
cup granulated sugar, plus 3 tablespoons - 1
/
4
cup Marsala Wine, plus 3 tablespoons - 8 ounces mascarpone cheese
- 1
/
4
teaspoon ground saigon cinnamon (
see tip, from Giddyup Cookies
) - 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
- 1
1
/
4
cups strong brewed coffee - 1
/
4
cup (about 2 shots) espresso - 8 to 10 unglazed old-fashioned donuts
- Cocoa powder or shaved chocolate for dusting
- PUT A SAUCEPAN
half-filled with water over high heat and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer. In a metal bowl large enough to fit over the saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks,
1
/
3
cup sugar, and
1
/
4
cup Marsala. Put the bowl over the saucepan of simmering water and whisk constantly until the mixture is light, airy, pale in color, and has reached the ribbon stage (the mixture has thickened enough so that when you lift the whisk and allow the mixture to drizzle back into the bowl, it folds back on itself like a stack of ribbons), about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. - IN A MEDIUM BOWL
, whisk together the mascarpone and cinnamon until smooth. Using a handheld mixer, beat the cream, 2 tablespoons of the remaining sugar, and the vanilla on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Add the mascarpone mixture and beat until medium peaks form, about 1 minute. - WHISK
about
1
/
2
cup of the whipped cream mixture into the egg mixture to lighten it, then fold this back into the cream. Fold in the remaining 3 tablespoons Marsala. - IN A MEDIUM BOWL
, combine the coffee, espresso, and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Use a serrated knife to cut the donuts in half horizontally, then vertically. Don’t be afraid if some of the donuts fall apart a bit. It won’t matter once they’re layered with the cream. Dunk each piece of donut in the coffee mixture, immersing both sides, until they feel saturated, about 20 seconds. (Discard any extra coffee.) - PLACE A LAYER
of coffee-soaked donuts on the bottom of an 8-by-8-inch or 9-by-9-inch square baking dish. Cover with one-third of the cream mixture, spreading evenly, then repeat layering the donuts and cream until you have three layers of each, ending with the cream. Smooth the top and dust with the cocoa powder. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and chill for several hours or overnight to allow the layers and flavors to integrate. Serve cold, dusted with cocoa powder or shaved chocolate.
Pôts de Crème
