Thanksgiving 101 (17 page)

Southwestern Corn Pudding:
Substitute 1 red bell pepper for the green bell pepper. Sauté 2 jalapeños, seeded and minced, with the vegetables.

Maque-Choux

This Cajun side dish has so much going for it, I hardly know where to begin. First of all, it adds a welcome splash of color to the Thanksgiving menu, which frankly can be somewhat bland-looking. Also, its spiciness complements, rather than overwhelms, the other dishes. Next, it can be made well ahead and reheated. Finally, it has bacon in it, which adds an old-fashioned flavor that my guests love. In fact, this simple dish has been the sleeper hit at many of my Thanksgiving spreads.

While
choux
means “cabbage” in French, there is no literal translation of “maque-choux” in either French or Cajun patois. The word (and the basis for the recipe) probably comes from the native Indians who lived in the Bayou. In other words, it is the Cajun version of succotash, the corn-and-bean dish that the northeastern Indians taught the Pilgrims.

1.
Cook the bacon in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer to paper towels to drain.

2.
Pour out all but 3 tablespoons of the bacon fat from the pan. Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery to the pan, and cook until the onion is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the corn, garlic, and Cajun Seasoning, and cook, stirring frequently, until the corn is heated through, about 5 minutes. (The maque-choux can be prepared up to this point 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat gently in the skillet over low heat, stirring often.)

3.
Stir in the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are heated through, about 5 minutes. Chop the bacon and stir it into the maque-choux. Season with the salt. Serve immediately.

Note:
Even if you can get fresh corn in November, I don’t recommend it at that time of year. It would probably be a supersweet hybrid, and too sugary. Thawed frozen corn kernels are processed from a less sweet variety, and are a better choice in autumn.

Not-Your-Grandmother’s Succotash

Succotash was one of the mainstays of the Native American diet. Originally, it consisted of corn and beans cooked with bear fat. The original word was from the Narraganset Indian word
misickquatash
, which meant both “stewpot” and “ear of corn.” Many versions of succotash are uninspiring, to say the least. This updated version has its roots in tradition, but is flavor packed to match today’s tastes.

1.
Cook the salt pork in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Cook until the stock is reduced to about ¼ cup, 12 to 15 minutes.

2.
Add the corn, lima beans, and thyme. Cook, stirring often, until heated through,
about 5 minutes. (The succotash can be prepared up to this point up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Reheat gently in a large skillet over low heat, stirring occasionally, until hot.)

3.
Add the cherry tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until they are heated through but not collapsing, about 2 minutes. Season with the pepper and add salt to taste (be careful, as the salt pork may have seasoned the succotash enough). Transfer to a heated serving dish and serve hot.

Note:
Choose a meaty piece of salt pork. Don’t confuse salt pork with salt fatback, which is entirely fat. Slab bacon is a good substitute. If you can’t find either, use pancetta or even sliced bacon.

CLASSIC RECIPE

Green Bean Bake

Here it is, one of America’s favorite recipes. It is served every year at the Rodgers family Thanksgiving, prepared by my brother Greg, who calls it “Greg’s Casserole,” although history says that he was not the originator. It was invented in 1955 by a Campbell Soup Company home economist, Dorcas Reilly. Here are some amazing Green Bean Bake statistics:

• Campbell Soup Company estimates that over 20 million Green Bean Bakes are served during the holiday season.
  
• A recent survey showed that over 50 percent of all Americans have tasted Green Bean Bake. Over 38 percent said that the best time to serve it is at Thanksgiving or during the holidays, but 35 percent serve it all year.
  
• Over 325 million cans of Campbell’s Cream of Mushroom Soup are sold annually. Over 80 percent of the soup is used as an ingredient in recipes.
  

1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a 1½-quart casserole, combine the soup, milk, soy sauce, and pepper. Stir in the green beans and half of the onions. (The casserole can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, covered, and refrigerated.)

2.
Bake until bubbling, about 25 minutes. Top with the remaining onions and bake for 5 more minutes. Serve hot.

Note:
Instead of the frozen green beans, use two 15½-ounce cans green beans, drained. Or cook 1½ pounds fresh green beans in lightly salted water until tender, about 5 minutes, and drain.

Green Beans with Portobello Mushrooms and Bacon

Green beans and bacon go together like, well, turkey and gravy. Portobello mushrooms, full of meaty flavor, are a fine addition to the classic dish. However, sautéed portobellos often give off a lot of dark liquid, which some cooks feel ruins the look of a dish. Scraping the dark gills out of each cap with a spoon solves the problem.

1.
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the green beans and return to the boil. Cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water. (The green beans can be prepared to this point up to 1 day ahead. Pat the green beans dry with paper towels. Roll them up in a double thickness of paper towels and place in a large self-sealing plastic bag and refrigerate.)

2.
Cut off the stem from each mushroom, and slice crosswise into ½-inch rounds. Using a teaspoon, scrape out the tender, dark brown gills from the underside of each mushroom cap and cut into ¼-inch-thick strips.

3.
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. Add the mushroom stems and caps, and cook, stirring often, until lightly browned and tender, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until the shallots soften, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside. (The mushrooms can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead, loosely covered, and kept at room temperature.)

4.
In the same skillet, place the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and tilt to coat the skillet. Add the bacon and place over medium heat. Cook, occasionally turning the bacon, until the bacon is crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer to paper towels to drain. Keep the bacon drippings in the skillet. Cool the bacon, chop coarsely, and set aside. (The bacon and its drippings can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead, covered, and kept at room temperature.)

5.
Place the skillet over medium heat and heat until the bacon drippings sizzle. Add the green beans and mushrooms, and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the bacon and season with the salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.

Green Bean and Cremini Mushroom Gratin

I swore that I would never attempt a fresh version of the beloved Green Bean Bake because it seemed redundant to alter a recipe that is all about convenience. And then I got a request to create one from my students, and now it threatens to usurp the original. Of course, it is more trouble to make than its ancestor, but this recipe is all about fresh ingredients.

1.
Cook the green beans in a large pot of lightly salted water until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Do not overcook, as they will bake in the oven. Drain, rinse under cold water, and drain again. Pat the green beans dry with paper towels.

2.
Heat 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and the liquid has almost evaporated, about 12 minutes. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with the flour and stir well.

3.
Whisk in the half-and-half, broth, and soy sauce, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Add the green beans and mix well. Spread in a buttered 2-quart baking dish. (The gratin can be prepared up to this point 1 day ahead. Press plastic wrap directly on the surface of the sauce, pierce a few holes in the wrap to allow the steam to escape, then cool to tepid and refrigerate. Remove the wrap before reheating.)

4.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F.

5.
Sprinkle the Parmesan over the gratin. Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon butter into tiny cubes and dot the top of the gratin with butter. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the top is browned, 25 to 35 minutes. Serve hot.

Vegetable Casserole with Smoked Cheddar Crust

This is another dish that leads a double life—it can be a fine side dish or act as a vegetarian main course. It leaves plenty of room for the cook’s personal stamp, as you could substitute leeks for the onion, add parcooked cubes of butternut squash, or bolster it with sautéed mushrooms.

CHEDDAR CRUMBS

1.
To prepare the vegetables, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Lightly oil a 10 × 15-inch baking dish.

2.
Place the yellow squash and zucchini in the dish, and toss with the oil. Bake, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 30 minutes.

3.
Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, red bell pepper, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the corn and rosemary. Stir the onion mixture into the vegetables. (The casserole can be prepared up to this point 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Bake the chilled casserole, uncovered, in a preheated 400°F oven until the vegetables are heated through, about 20 minutes.)

4.
To make the crumbs, reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. Mix the bread crumbs and cheese in a medium bowl. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons butter, stir into the crumbs, and mix with your hands until they are thoroughly combined. Sprinkle the crumbs evenly over the vegetables. Bake until the crumbs are crisp and golden brown, about 20 minutes. Serve hot.