1. Place the arame in a bowl and cover with the hot water; let soak for 15 minutes. Transfer arame and water to a blender with the remaining ingredients and blend well.
2. Pour the mixture through a strainer and store in a glass container in the refrigerator for up to a week for use in all of your Thai dishes.
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
Looking for that fish-saucy flavor without wanting to make the fish-free sauce? Try using a bit of Bragg’s Liquid Aminos in your recipes. It has a unique salty flavor that will do in a pinch.
SRIRACHA
This is a homemade variation of the wildly popular hot sauce that adorns virtually every table in Thai restaurants across America. Sriracha is actually a region in Thailand, though the hot sauce has usurped the title and most think of the sauce when they hear the name. Use the small Thai red hot chile peppers if you can find them in an Asian market. You may want to wear latex gloves as you work with the peppers. Definitely wash your hands immediately if they come in contact with the chiles.
MAKES APPROXIMATELY ¾ CUP
1 cup de-stemmed Thai red chile peppers,
red jalapeño peppers, or other hot chile peppers
3 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon agave nectar or organic sugar
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons mirin, optional
1 teaspoon Fish-Free Sauce, optional
½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
Place all of the ingredients in a blender and blend well. Store in a glass container in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
PART THREE
The Cuisine of China
V
irtually everything about eating in China is different from eating in the West—from the selection of vegetables, to the pan the food is cooked in, right up to the utensil that puts it in your mouth. Chinese food is steeped in tradition, spirituality, and sophisticated systems of nutrition and health guidelines. We find this rabbit hole of Chinese cuisine to be exciting. And re-creating our favorite dishes in our own kitchen with fresh, local ingredients is downright intoxicating.
As we demystified the skills needed to prepare such classic dishes as Dim Sum Dumplings, Mu Shu Vegetables, and Chow Mein we also created westernized twists like Peking Seitan and Orange-Glazed Tofu. Willing to go even further with our endeavor of delivering authentic Chinese flavor into the hands of the West, we added Pumpkin Pine Nut Soup, Hoisin Eggplant Cutlets, and Green Onion Hotcakes.
For some super simple dishes with unintimidating ingredients lists, try Garlic Lover’s Eggplant, Chinese Fried Rice, Sesame Garlic Stir-Fry with Snow Peas, and Mango Custard Pudding. Even the Lotus Root Salad, Seitan and Broccoli, and the Szechuan Tempeh and Veggies are very simple dishes once you grow accustomed to some new and exciting additions to your grocery list.
Most major cities have thriving Chinatowns, and specialty markets abound these days where Asian food aficionados can stock up on an abundance of otherwise obscure ingredients. And there is always the World Wide Web. See our Resource Section (page 245) for tips on procuring the ingredients you need without leaving the comfort of your home. In the words of Lao Tzu, “The journey of a thousand miles must begin with one step.”
The Asian Pantry: China
Arrowroot:
Reputedly cultivated for over 7,000 years, arrowroot is the powdered root of a tropical plant that can be used to replace cornstarch as a thickening agent in recipes. Most Asian recipes you see call for cornstarch. Arrowroot has a more neutral flavor. It works at a lower temperature and with acidic ingredients. In general, 1 tablespoon of arrowroot thickens 1 cup of liquid. You can use 1 tablespoon of arrowroot to replace 2 teaspoons of cornstarch in any given recipe.
Fermented Black Beans:
These black soy beans, preserved in salt, impart a strong salty and slightly bitter flavor to dishes. They are frequently used in hoisin sauce and other Chinese dishes of the Canton province. Look for them at your local Asian market or check out our resource guide in Appendix C to order online. Please note that these are different than the black beans typically used in Mexican cooking.
Five-Spice Powder:
As the name suggests, this is a blend of five spices that together provide all five flavors—sweet, salty, sour, pungent, and bitter. It consists of ground peppercorns (use Szechuan peppers if possible), star anise, clove, cinnamon, and fennel.
Lotus Root:
Popular in Asian cooking, the rhizome of the lotus flower has the appearance of a long potato. When sliced, a wagon-wheel design is revealed. Lotus root makes a crunchy artistic addition to salads and stir-fries.
Seitan:
Originating in China and also called “wheat meat,” “meat of wheat,” and even simply “gluten,” seitan is made from wheat gluten. It is high in protein and is commonly used to replace beef or chicken in dishes traditionally made with animal products. Because it’s all gluten, individuals with gluten intolerance will want to steer clear of it. Many flavored varieties are available, or you can create your own.
Szechuan Peppers:
Also called Szechwan or Sichuan peppers, and widely used in Asian cooking, the Szechuan pepper is not related to the peppercorn or the chile pepper! Chinese pepper, anise pepper, fagara, and flower pepper are additional names for this pepper, whose unique flavor has a hint of lemon and a slightly tingling / numbing effect that accentuates the spicy heat of chiles, peppercorns, and other spices. A little goes a long way; use sparingly. Popular in the Sichuan province of China, where it originates, as well as in Nepal, Tibet, Japan, and Indonesia, the pepper is available whole, ground, and even in an infused oil. Visit a local Asian market or check out our resource guide in Appendix C to special order.
Tofu:
Originating in China, tofu is made from soybeans and is formed into a block. It is another food that crosses cultural boundaries throughout Asia. There are several forms available, including soft, firm, extra-firm, and silken varieties. Please see page 225 for more intriguing information and for tips and tricks on working with tofu.
Wonton Wrappers and Gyoza Skins:
These flour-based sheets are perfect for creating quick appetizers or hors d’oeuvres. Both are used to wrap a variety of foods that feature prominently in Dim Sum (see page 96). Be on guard and make sure to check the ingredients: most of the commercially prepared varieties available at the supermarket do contain eggs. You can, however, often find egg-free varieties at an Asian market.
PUMPKIN PINE NUT SOUP
This is a creamy and thick soup that is filling and perfect in autumn, when a wide variety of pumpkins and squash are available. Experiment with the different types of squash such as butternut, buttercup, or acorn. Serve with Green Onion Hotcakes (page 112).
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 yellow onion, chopped (1½ cups)
2 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and minced
fresh ginger
1 small pumpkin, butternut, or buttercup
squash, seeded and cubed (4 cups)
5 cups water or vegetable stock
(see page 228)
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1¼ teaspoons five-spice powder
½ teaspoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon agave nectar or
sweetener of choice
1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
¾ cup pine nuts, cashews, or
macadamia nuts, or combination,
toasted (see page 225)
1 cup corn, fresh or frozen
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
1. Place the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and ginger and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the pumpkin and stir well. Lower the heat to medium, add the water, and cook until the pumpkin is soft, approximately 15 minutes.
2. Add the remaining ingredients except the corn and cilantro, and stir well. Using a blender and working in small batches, carefully blend the contents of the pan and transfer to a large tureen or serving bowl. Add the corn and mix well. Garnish with cilantro before serving.
Variations
• If you have more time, instead of sautéing the pumpkin you can roast it on a well-oiled baking sheet in a 400°F oven until a knife can pass easily through any portion of it. Blend with other ingredients as in the recipe above.
• Replace the pine nuts with ¾ cup coconut, soy, rice or almond milk (see page 229).
HOT AND SOUR SOUP
Some like it hot, some like it sour, and some like it hot and sour. Chinese hot and sour soup is considered a regional dish in both Mandarin and Sichuan cuisines. The hot comes from chile pepper and the sour comes from vinegar. Feel free to substitute the rice vinegar with apple cider vinegar. Start with a smaller quantity and adjust to taste, as the rice vinegar has a milder flavor (see Box on page 135).
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 tablespoon sesame oil or toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 hot chile pepper, seeded and diced, or cayenne pepper to taste
6 cups water or vegetable stock (see page 228)
1 cup sliced mushrooms (try straw or shiitake)
8 ounces canned bamboo shoots
1 cup chopped tomatoes
1 cup chopped zucchini
1 cup chopped carrots
1 tablespoon agave nectar or organic sugar
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons arrowroot powder dissolved in ½ cup cold water
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
Half (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu, grated, optional (see page 226)
¼ cup diced green onions
1. Place the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, and chile pepper, and stir constantly for 1 minute. Add the water, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, tomatoes, zucchini, and carrots and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add the agave, vinegar, and arrowroot mixture, and gently stir until the soup thickens. Add the soy sauce and tofu, if using, and cook for an additional 5 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.
3. Add the green onions and mix well before serving.
CREAMY CORN SOUP
This is a silky soup that replicates the popular Chinese restaurant dish. Adding the optional grated tofu creates the egglike texture that is included in most versions. We blend the corn with soymilk to create the “creamed corn” effect. Serve as a side with BBQ Tofu with Snow Peas (page 119) and Szechuan Green Beans (page 110).
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped small (1¼ cups)
3 cloves garlic, pressed or minced
2 cups vegetable stock (see page 228) or
2 cups water plus 1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 (1-pound) bag frozen corn or 3 cups fresh corn
2 cups soymilk
1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon five-spice powder
¼ teaspoon ground white or black pepper, or to taste
¾ cup grated extra-firm tofu, optional (see page 226)
1 tablespoon mirin, optional
Pinch cayenne
1 tablespoon arrowroot dissolved in ½ cup cold water
(see page 90 for more on arrowroot)
¼ cup diced green onions