The Amazing World of Rice (21 page)

Certainly rice and dried peas were staples of the slaves in the South, but eating hoppin' John at the beginning of the New Year is symbolic of good luck for the year ahead for all the people of the South. There are several legends surrounding the origin of its name. Supposedly children hopped around the dining table on New Year's Day before sitting down to eat rice and peas—but who knows if the dish was named for the children's hopping, or if the children's hopping was named for the dish. Another more likely hypothesis is that the name is a corruption of
pois à pigeon
, French for “pigeon peas,” a dish that is popular in the Caribbean. This is adapted from a recipe of a friend and culinary scholar John Martin Taylor and appears in a slightly different form in his book
Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking
.

1 cup dried black-eyed peas, sorted and rinsed

1 dried chile pepper

1 smoked ham hock

¾ cup chopped onion

1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice

• 1.
  Combine the peas, chile pepper, ham hock, onion, and 6 cups water in a large wide saucepan. Heat to a boil. Reduce the heat to low; gently simmer, uncovered, until the peas are soft but not mushy, about 1½ hours. There should be about 2 cups liquid remaining; add water as necessary.
  
• 2.
  Add the rice and stir to distribute evenly. Cover and cook over low heat for 20 minutes; do not lift the lid. Let stand off the heat for 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork and serve.
  

The bold presentation of black beans against bright yellow rice makes this a stunning dish. Arrange the roasted red peppers between where the yellow rice meets the black beans and garnish the dish with cilantro sprigs. The variety of chiles and peppers cooked with the beans contributes to their complex flavor.

Beans

1 pound dried black beans, sorted, rinsed, and soaked overnight in cold water to cover generously

1 large green bell pepper, halved, stemmed, seeded, and cut into wedges, plus ½ cup chopped green bell pepper

1 bay leaf

4 garlic cloves, 1 bruised with the side of a knife, 3 chopped

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped onions

½ cup chopped red bell pepper

1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped

1 serrano chile, seeded and finely chopped

2 teaspoons ground cumin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 cups water or low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth

½ cup heavy cream, at room temperature

Yellow Rice

1¾ cups water or low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup uncooked long-grain white rice

1 garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Garnish

1 cup (2 large peppers) roasted, peeled, and seeded red bell peppers (see Note), cut into quarters

Cilantro leaves

• 1.
  For the beans:
  Drain the beans and combine with 10 cups water, the bell pepper wedges, bay leaf, and bruised garlic clove in a large pot. Heat to boiling, reduce heat, and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until the beans are tender enough to crush against the side of the pan with a spoon and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 2½ hours. Remove and discard the bay leaf and any visible green pepper skins. Set aside.
  
• 2.
  Heat the oil in a medium skillet over low heat. Add the chopped onions, green and red peppers, and garlic; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the chiles and cumin; cook for 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  
• 3.
  Stir the vegetables into the beans; bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, over low heat, until the flavors are blended, 1 to 1½ hours, adding as much of the water or broth as needed to keep a thick consistency, without sticking. Stir in the heavy cream. Taste and correct the seasoning.
  
• 4.
  For the yellow rice:
  Just before serving, heat ¼ cup of the water or broth to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the saffron threads; cover and let stand for 5 minutes.
  
• 5.
  Meanwhile, in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet, heat the olive oil over low heat. Add the rice and garlic. Cook, stirring, just until the rice is coated and the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes; do not brown the garlic. Stir in the turmeric. Stir in the remaining 1½ cups water or broth, the saffron and broth mixture, and the salt. Heat to a boil; stir once. Cook, covered, over low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand, covered, off the heat, for 10 minutes.
  
• 6.
  Spoon the rice into a large shallow serving bowl. Ladle the black beans on top. Garnish with the roasted peppers and a halo of cilantro leaves.
  

NOTE:
If buying jarred roasted peppers, for the best flavor, look inside the jars for the peppers with the most charred surfaces. Drain the peppers and rinse off the juices. Quarter the peppers, place in a bowl, and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Add salt to taste and a grinding of black pepper. Sprinkle with about ½ teaspoon thyme leaves if desired.

This eclectic dish came about simply because the main ingredients just happen to be among my favorites. Accompany by a green salad or steamed green beans or broccoli.

1 tablespoon canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

½ cup chopped onion

1 jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cup uncooked basmati rice

2 cups diced (½-inch cubes) peeled butternut, acorn, or Kabocha squash

One 15-or 16-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

2 cups water or low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Crispy Garlic Threads

2 tablespoons canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

1 tablespoon long thin garlic slivers

• 1.
  Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan. Add the onion and cook over low heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the jalapeño and garlic; cook for 1 minute. Stir in the coriander and cumin; cook for 1 minute. Add the rice, squash, and chickpeas; stir to coat the rice with the seasonings, about 3 minutes.
  
• 2.
  Stir in water or broth and salt; heat to a boil. Stir well. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Let stand, uncovered, off the heat, for 5 minutes before serving.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, for the crispy garlic threads:
  Combine the oil and garlic in a small skillet; heat over low heat just until the garlic begins to sizzle. Cook, stirring, until the garlic turns golden, about 1 minute. Immediately lift the garlic from the oil with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels.
  
• 4.
  Sprinkle the garlic over the rice and serve at once.
  

Like the country, the flavors of India may overwhelm the senses at first, but gradually they grab—and then you are either hooked for life or never go back. I'm hooked for life. This particular dish is one of my favorites. Hearty and filling, it's the kind of food I enjoy when the weather is cold. Serve with cold beer, preferably Indian.

1½ cups brown lentils, sorted and rinsed

2 tablespoons canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

2 cups finely chopped onions

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

2 teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste

1½ cups uncooked basmati rice

1 slice (about ¼-inch) fresh ginger

1 cinnamon stick

2 whole cardamom pods

One 14½-ounce can diced tomatoes with their juices

1½ cups (approximately) water or low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Chile Oil

¹
/
₃
cup canola or other flavorless vegetable oil

¹
/
₃
cup thinly sliced seeded moderately hot green chiles (such as jalapeño or serrano)

2 garlic cloves, minced

 

2 tablespoons torn cilantro leaves, optional

• 1.
  Combine the lentils and 8 cups water in a large saucepan; heat to a boil. Reduce the heat; simmer, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the lentils are almost tender (they will continue cooking with the rice). Drain and set aside.
  
• 2.
  Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over low heat, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin, coriander, and red pepper flakes; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the rice, ginger, cinnamon stick, and cardamom; cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Stir in the lentils.
  
• 3.
  Pour the tomatoes, with their juices, into a 4-cup measure; add enough water or broth to measure 3½ cups. Stir into the rice; add the salt. Heat to a full boil; stir once. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, for the green chile oil:
  Heat the oil in a small skillet until hot enough to sizzle a slice of chile. Add the chiles; cook, stirring, just until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic; saute for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.
  
• 5.
  Spoon the rice and lentils into a large shallow bowl; pour the chile oil mixture over the top. Garnish with the cilantro leaves, if using. Serve at once.
  

Don't let the long list of ingredients deter you from making this sumptuous dish. It goes together very quickly once the vegetables are cut up and the spices measured. The dish cooks in 15 minutes, then should stand for 10 minutes, which gives you time to prepare the coconut cream. Serve as a vegetable main dish or a side dish with grilled chicken or fish.

 

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or canola oil or other

flavorless vegetable oil

1 large onion, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon Madras-style curry powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

¹
/
₈
teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to taste

1 cinnamon stick

1 cup uncooked basmati rice

2 cups cauliflower florets broken into 1-inch pieces (½ medium head)

2 cups cubed (½-inch) peeled butternut squash or sweet potato (8 ounces)

1 cup (1-inch lengths) green beans (about 4 ounces)

1 cup frozen lima beans, thawed

1 cup cubed (½-inch) carrots (about 2 carrots)

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

²
/
₃
cup half-and-half or whole milk

¼ cup unsweetened dried coconut

½ cup coarsely chopped unsalted roasted cashews

Chopped cilantro

• 1.
  Melt the butter in a large wide saucepan, or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook, stirring, over low heat until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic; cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the curry powder, cumin, coriander, cardamom, red pepper flakes, and cinnamon; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the rice; stir to coat with the spices, about 1 minute.
  
• 2.
  Add the cauliflower, squash, green beans, lima beans, and carrots; stir to blend with the rice. Add the broth, salt, and a grinding of black pepper; heat to a boil
  over high heat. Stir thoroughly, making sure that all the rice is moistened. Cover and cook over low heat until the broth is absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes. Let stand, covered, off the heat, for 10 minutes before serving.
  
• 3.
  Meanwhile, combine the half-and-half or milk and coconut in a food processor. Process just until blended, about 30 seconds.
  
• 4.
  Heat the cashews in a small skillet over low heat, stirring, until toasted, about 3 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop.
  
• 5.
  Just before serving, pour the coconut milk over the rice and gently fold together. Spoon the rice into a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the cashews and cilantro, and serve.
  

The lamb, feta cheese, and mint make this a Greek-inspired dish, but experiment with ground beef, Parmesan cheese, and fresh basil instead for an Italian flavor. Use red, brown, or white rice, long-or medium-grain; all work perfectly. Vary the presentation by using an equal weight (2 pounds) of smaller eggplants and serving as a first course or side dish. Half of a medium eggplant makes a hearty supper dish served with a simple green salad. Make this ahead and reheat just before serving.

2 eggplants (about 1 pound each)

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

8 ounces ground lean lamb (or beef and lamb or all beef)

1 cup coarsely chopped onions

½ cup diced (about ¼-inch) green bell pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 cup diced seeded fresh or canned tomatoes

2 tablespoons finely chopped Italian parsley

2 tablespoons finely chopped dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Freshly ground black pepper

2 cups cooked red, brown, or white rice (medium-or long-grain)

1 cup crumbled feta (about 4 ounces)

1 cup shredded mozzarella (about 4 ounces)

• 1.
  Halve the eggplants lengthwise. Score the cut sides at ½-inch intervals with a paring knife. Sprinkle the surfaces with 1 teaspoon salt. Place the eggplants cut side down on a wire rack set on a tray. Let drain for at least 2 hours (see Note).
  
• 2.
  Preheat the oven to 400°F.
  
• 3.
  Carefully squeeze the excess water from the eggplants and blot dry with paper towels. Rub the cut sides of the eggplant with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and place oiled side down in a 13 × 9-inch baking pan. Bake for 15 minutes, or until partially softened. Remove from the oven; turn the eggplant cut side up and let stand until cool enough to handle. Turn the oven down to 350°F.
  
• 4.
  Meanwhile, crumble the lamb into a large skillet; cook, stirring to break up the meat, until well browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a large bowl.
  
• 5.
  Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in the skillet. Add the onions and green pepper; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 1 minute.
  
• 6.
  Meanwhile, use a tablespoon to scoop out the cooked eggplant flesh, leaving about a ¼-inch-thick shell. Return the eggplant shells, scooped side up, to the baking pan. Coarsely chop the eggplant and add to the skillet with the onion. Cook the eggplant with the onion mixture, stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, parsley, dill, mint, cinnamon, and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to the bowl with the cooked lamb.
  
• 7.
  Add the rice and feta; stir to blend. Taste and add more seasonings, if desired. Carefully spoon into the reserved eggplant shells, dividing the mixture evenly. Sprinkle the tops with the mozzarella.
  
• 8.
  Bake for 45 minutes, or until the cheese is well browned and bubbly. Serve warm or at room temperature.
  

NOTE:
When I buy the squeaking-fresh eggplant at the farmers' market, I eliminate this step. Salting is intended to release excess moisture and, along with it, any bitterness, but the times I have chosen not to salt and drain it, the eggplant has tasted just fine.