The Amazing World of Rice (20 page)

A hearty frittata flavored with roasted peppers and fennel. Use freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano in the frittata itself and top with smoked or plain mozzarella.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 cup diced (¼-inch) fennel bulb (see Note), plus

¼ cup finely chopped feathery fennel tops

½ large sweet yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch lengthwise slices (about 1 cup)

½ cup slivered (1 ×
¹
/
₈
-inch strips) red bell pepper

1 cup cooked long-or medium-grain white rice

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 large eggs

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

4 ounces plain or smoked mozzarella, thinly sliced

• 1.
  Heat the olive oil in a large heavy skillet, preferably nonstick. Add the diced fennel, onion, and red pepper; cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the rice, parsley, fennel fronds, and salt and pepper to taste.
  
• 2.
  Whisk the eggs and Parmesan cheese in a medium bowl. Pour over the rice mixture. Cook over low heat, without stirring, until the eggs begin to set, about 2 minutes. With a spatula, lift the edges of the frittata and tilt the pan so that the runny center flows to the edges. Cover and cook over medium-low heat, shaking the pan, until the eggs set around the edges and almost in the center, about 12 minutes.
  
• 3.
  Preheat the broiler, if using it to finish the frittata. Arrange the cheese on top of the frittata. If using the broiler, place the skillet about 3 inches from the heat and broil until the cheese is browned and bubbly, about 2 minutes. Or cover the frittata and cook over very low heat until the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
  
• 4.
  Loosen the edges and bottom of the frittata with a rubber spatula; slide onto a large round platter. Cut into wedges to serve.
  

NOTE:
To ensure crispness and flavor, always soak trimmed fennel bulb in a bowl of ice water for about 20 minutes before using.

In Persian cooking, an omelet, or
kuku
, is similar to an Italian frittata, but it contains a small amount of flour and baking powder, so the texture is more like an eggy pancake. I have no idea if a Persian cook would add rice to a
kuku
, but because rice is so popular in Persian cooking, I assume there would be some leftovers on hand. Authentic or not, the results are delicious.

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped leeks (white and pale green parts)

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 cup cooked medium-or long-grain white rice

1 cup frozen petite green peas, thawed

¼ cup chopped dill

2 tablespoons chopped mint

5 large eggs

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

• 1.
  Preheat the oven to 350°F.
  
• 2.
  Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in 10-inch heavy ovenproof skillet, preferably nonstick. Add the leeks; cook, stirring, over low heat, until wilted, about 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic; cook for 1 minute. Add the rice, peas, dill, and mint; stir to blend. Remove from the heat.
  
• 3.
  In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, flour, baking powder, salt, and pepper to taste until well blended. Add the rice and leek mixture and stir to blend.
  
• 4.
  Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the empty skillet; heat over medium heat until very hot. Pour in the egg mixture; smooth out the ingredients. Place in the oven and bake until the eggs are set, about 15 minutes.
  
• 5.
  With a spatula, slide the omelet onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature.
  

Try these buttery cumin-flavored scrambled eggs and rice for brunch or supper. The accompaniments—salsa, sliced avocado, and cilantro—give the dish a Southwestern flavor. For a heartier entrée, add a cup or two of cooked black beans to the salsa.

Salsa

1 cup diced ripe tomatoes (including seeds and juices)

1 scallion, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

1 jalapeño, or more to taste, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon minced mint, optional

Kosher salt

5 extra-large eggs

Pinch of kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup cooked long-or medium-grain white rice

1 tablespoon thinly sliced scallion greens

Cilantro sprigs

2 tablespoons sour cream, optional

½ ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced

• 1.
  For the salsa:
  Combine the tomatoes, scallion, cilantro, jalapeño, olive oil, lime juice, and mint in a small bowl; season with salt. Cover and set aside at room temperature.
  
• 2.
  Whisk the eggs and 2 tablespoons cold water in a large bowl until blended; add the salt and a grinding of black pepper. Set aside.
  
• 3.
  Sprinkle the cumin into a medium skillet; heat over medium-low heat, stirring gently, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a side dish. Melt the butter in the skillet. When the foam subsides, stir in the rice; cook, stirring, until coated with butter and heated through, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cumin and scallion greens.
  
• 4.
  Add the eggs all at once; cook, stirring gently with a heatproof rubber spatula, just until they begin to set. Immediately spoon onto serving plates or a platter. Top with cilantro sprigs and sour cream, if using. Garnish with the avocado slices. Serve with the salsa on the side.
  

Chinese chile sauce gives this quick fried rice and pork entrée its spicy flavor. The sauce is a thick jam-like mixture of ground chiles, salt, and vinegar, cooked in oil. Have all the ingredients assembled and ready to go before heating up the pan. Once you start cooking, this dish is ready in a matter of minutes.

8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

Kosher salt

1 large egg

2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon tamari or soy sauce, or more to taste

3 tablespoons peanut or other vegetable oil

½ cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

8 ounces lean ground pork

1 tablespoon Chinese chile sauce

½ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts

1 tablespoon minced seeded jalapeño

2 to 3 cups cold or freshly cooked and cooled long-or medium-grain white rice

• 1.
  Heat a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the beans and a pinch of salt; cook for 2 minutes. Drain; rinse with cold water. Spread on a double thickness of paper towels to dry.
  
• 2.
  Break the egg into a small bowl. Add ½ teaspoon of the tamari; stir with a fork or chopstick just to break up the yolk. Set aside.
  
• 3.
  Heat a wok or a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over high heat until hot enough to sizzle a drop of water upon contact. Add the oil and a pinch of the onion. When the onion sizzles, add the remaining onions. Cook, stirring, with a spatula or wooden spoon, until beginning to turn golden, about 30 seconds. Add the ginger and garlic; stir-fry for 10 seconds.
  
• 4.
  Add the ground pork. Stir-fry, breaking up the meat with the side of the spatula or spoon, until the pork loses its pink color. Add the chile sauce and 1 tablespoon tamari; stir to blend. Add the green beans, peanuts, and jalapeño; stir to blend.
  
• 5.
  Add the rice; break up any clumps with the edge of the spatula, mixing in the other ingredients. Press the rice against the bottom and the sides of the pan. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon tamari. Continue heating the rice, lifting up sections with the spatula, and turning, pressing, and hacking at it with one side of the spatula, until all the ingredients are evenly mixed and coated with the seasonings, about 1 minute. Spoon onto a platter and serve at once.
  

I use a combination of white and brown rices in this dish, but any combination can be used. To ensure neat thin, even slices of chicken, wrap it in foil and partially freeze just until firm, 20 to 30 minutes, before slicing.

Marinade

1 teaspoon tamari or soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon sugar

12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut crosswise into thin slices

Egg Pancake

2 large eggs

¼ teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Pinch of kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon peanut or other vegetable oil

Sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon water or chicken broth

1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons peanut or other vegetable oil

½ cup coarsely chopped unsalted cashews

2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

½ cup slivered red bell pepper

3 scallions, trimmed and cut into thin diagonal slices

2 to 3 cups cold or freshly cooked and cooled long-or medium-grain brown or white rice (or a combination of the two)

Cilantro leaves, optional

• 1.
  For the marinade:
  Combine the tamari, sesame oil, ginger, and sugar in a medium bowl. Add the chicken; let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour or more.
  
• 2.
  For the egg pancake:
  Whisk the eggs, sesame oil, salt, and pepper to taste in a medium bowl until frothy. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet until hot. Add the eggs, tilting the pan to coat evenly with egg; cook until set, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plate; let cool. Cut the pancake into thin strips; reserve.
  
• 3.
  For the sauce:
  Combine the oyster sauce, water, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a small bowl; set aside.
  
• 4.
  Just before serving, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wok or large heavy skillet, preferably nonstick, until very hot. Add the cashews; stir-fry for 30 seconds. With a slotted spoon, remove to a side dish. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan and heat. Add the ginger and garlic; stir-fry for 10 seconds. Add the chicken and stir-fry until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Add the red pepper and scallions; stir-fry for 1 minute.
  
• 5.
  Add the rice; break up any clumps with the edge of the spatula, mixing in the other ingredients. Press the rice against the bottom and the sides of the pan; pour the sauce over the top. Continue heating the rice, lifting up sections with the spatula, and turning, pressing, and hacking at it with the side of the spatula until all the ingredients are evenly mixed and coated with the seasonings, about 2 minutes. Serve at once, sprinkled with the cashews and cilantro, if using.
  

The flavor of orange, whether it is juice, zest, or pulp, seems to temper the assertive taste of seafood. Stir-frying the orange zest in peanut oil ensures that its flavor is evenly distributed, as the oil coats every grain of rice.

Marinade

2 teaspoons tamari or soy sauce

1 teaspoon peanut oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 teaspoon minced or grated fresh ginger

½ teaspoon Chinese chile oil

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

 

1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined

2 tablespoons peanut or other vegetable oil

2 strips (2 × ½-inches) orange zest, cut into very thin slivers

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

½ teaspoon minced garlic

3 scallions, trimmed and cut into thin diagonal slices

4 cups torn spinach leaves (about 5 ounces)

3 cups cold cooked long-grain white or brown rice

2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce

• 1.
  For the marinade:
  Combine the soy sauce, peanut oil, garlic, ginger, chile oil, red pepper flakes, and black pepper in a large bowl. Add the shrimp; toss to coat. Cover and marinate for 30 minutes at room temperature, or 1 hour or longer in the refrigerator.
  
• 2.
  When ready to serve, heat a wok or large nonstick skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat until hot enough to evaporate a drop of water upon contact. Add 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil; heat until hot. Add the shrimp, a few at a time; stir-fry just until lightly browned on both sides. Transfer to a side dish as they are cooked. Scrape any pan drippings over the shrimp; wipe out the pan with paper towels.
  
• 3.
  Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan; heat until hot enough to sizzle a piece of the orange zest. Add all the orange zest; stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the ginger and garlic; stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the scallions; stir once. Add the spinach; stir to coat with the ingredients.
  
• 4.
  Add the rice and shrimp; break up any clumps of rice with the edge of the spatula mixing in the other ingredients. Press the rice against the bottom and the sides of the pan. Sprinkle with the soy sauce. Continue heating the rice, lifting up sections with the spatula until all the ingredients are evenly mixed and coated with the seasonings, about 2 minutes.
  
• 5.
  Spoon into a serving dish and serve at once.