The Anarchist Cookbook (78 page)
There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest in. The barrel is
then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong tape.
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger flap to hold a
roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the
stock on both sides.
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe with a bore that fits
in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through it, is screwed on.
Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and rest on the
primer.
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with
the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the
trigger and the thing actually fires.
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store. All caliber
bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other. For instance, a .
22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line. Unfortunately, the copper is
too weak to withstand the pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with
glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a
length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.
Using this method, you can accommodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell. The first size of
pipe for a rifle shell accommodates the bullet. The second accommodates its wider powder
chamber.
A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to comply with the
gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has a longer stock and
its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side
of the stock about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one
nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it by hand. This is done
by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a
string is tied to the trigger and you go off several yards. The string is then pulled back
and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand.
Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun can be considered "safe" to use.
Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives
By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book 'Two Component
High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l
Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead! I won't
even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes only'! I would love it
if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their fucking school to kingdom scum!
Astrolite
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant research in the
'60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive
-at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to
handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation
velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and
6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid
explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining
detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the
ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather" know what that
means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate
mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough
eh? I'm sure that the 2:1 ratio is not perfect, and that if you screw around with it long
enough, that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for
Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial
and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder
fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you
should be careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with hydrazine.
The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of
7,800MPS.
Misc Info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you
should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a
#8 blasting cap.
Sodium Chlorate Formulas
Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in most cases can be a substitute.
Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or
any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3
lbs for about $6.00.
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
65% Sodium Chlorate
22% Charcoal
13% Sulfur
Sprinkles of Graphite on top
Rocket Fuel
6 parts Sodium Chlorate
5 parts Rubber Cement
Mix *THOROUGHLY*
Rocket Fuel II
(Better Performance)
50% Sodium Chlorate
35% Rubber Cement ('One-Coat' brand)
10% Epoxy Resin Hardener
5% Sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
Incendiary Mixture
55% Aluminum Powder (Atomized)
45% Sodium Chlorate
5% Sulfur
Impact Mixture
50% Red Phosphorus
50% Sodium Chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with
phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive
85% Sodium Chlorate
10% Vaseline
5% Aluminum Powder
Nitromethane formulas
I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.
Nitromethane (CH3NOý)
Specific Gravity: 1.139
Flash Point: 95øF
Auto-Ignite: 785øF
Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
2 parts nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
Soak for 3-5 min. When done, store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30%
more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.
MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!
by Phucked Agent!
Materials:
1 Mercury Battery (1« or 1.4 V Hearing Aid)
1 working lamp with on/off switch
It is VERY SIMPLE! ! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't consider trying this one or else they
would have mercuric acid on their faces!
Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb lights up.
If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
Unscrew the bulb (Don't touch the hot-spot!)
Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching the Hot-spot
contact.
Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparks given off!
Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
And you will have fun! Like Real Party! !
2 19.Thermite IV by Kilroy
DISCLAIMER :
The making and possession of the following devices and mixtures is probably illegal in most
communities. The incendiaries are capable of burning in excess of 5400øF and are next to
impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all responsibility for their
possession and use. You also accept all responsibility for your own stupidity and
carelessness. This information is intended solely to educate. All Formulas are by Weight
Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal reduces oxygen
from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and pure metal. The most common
thermite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide
(metal oxide). When it burns it produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron. Thermite is
usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3 lb. brick of thermite was placed on
an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was done burning, only a small portion of
block was melted. However, the block was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks
all through the block. Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram The usual
proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide The iron oxide usually
used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4). Rust will work but you may want to adjust
the mixture to about 77% rust. The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down
the burning rate. The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a
suitable container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited.
NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock or friction
sensitive and ignite at about 2000øF.
A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough to
light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
Sulfur 2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely powdered ferro-
thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum and the
oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix
this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called
Diasite, this formula uses sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the
thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70 %
Aluminum 23 %
Sulfur 7 %
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325øF and let the mix
heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this
back in the oven for a few minutes to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again.
While it is still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to hold
about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that
release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire
fighting efforts. Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple
of tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.
CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a
solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it makes a slag
which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and add enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a mold and let it
sit for « hour. Pour off any extra water that separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun
for at least a week. Or dry in the sun for one day and put in a 250øF oven for a couple of
hours. Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula
and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first
fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into
the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat
of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil
