The Art of Manliness: Classic Skills and Manners for the Modern Man (7 page)

Better, more consistent shaves.
Most men today walk around not knowing they have horrible shaves. Electric razors and the latest five-blade super-duper nanobot contraptions irritate the skin more than necessary, leaving razor burn, ingrown hairs and redness. Shaving with a safety razor will eliminate the skin irritation and give your face a clean, healthy look. With a safety razor, you’re just using one blade instead of several that chew up your face while cutting your whiskers.

You’ll feel like a badass.
It’s nice taking part in a ritual that great men like your grandfather, John F. Kennedy and Teddy Roosevelt took part in.

The Tools

Safety razor. Switching from a cheap disposable razor to double-edged safety razor is like upgrading from a Pinto to a Mercedes. A safety razor is a machine. It’s nice holding a piece of heavy, sturdy metal in your hand while you’re shaving, as opposed to a piece of cheapo plastic.

You can find safety razors in a variety of places. First, ask your grandpa if he still has one lying around. Chances are he does. If Gramps doesn’t have one, try checking antique stores. I found my 1966 Gillette Superspeed Safety Razor in an antique store in Vermont. I paid only ten dollars for it. If you don’t have any luck there, stop by eBay and do a search for safety razors. You’re bound to find a few there. Finally, if buying a used safety razor doesn’t fancy you, you can always buy a new one from one of several companies that still make them. A highly recommended safety razor is from Merkur. They have several types to choose from at varying prices. Look to spend about forty dollars for a new safety razor.

Blades.
You can choose from a variety of different blades. Each blade has a unique sharpness and cutting ability. Experiment with different kinds until you find the ones you like.

Shaving brush.
If you’ve never used a brush during shaving, you’re in for a treat. A brush helps hydrate the shaving cream in order to form a thick, rich shaving lather. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves. Plus, lathering up with a brush just feels nice on your face.

Brushes are made out of two types of animal hair: boar and badger. Boar bristles are stiffer, hold less water and are cheaper than badger bristles. You can find a boar hair brush at Wal-Mart for about four dollars. If you really want to have a nice shaving experience, splurge and buy a badger hair brush. Badger brushes create more lather and feel a lot nicer on your face.

Soaps and creams.
If you’re like the average guy, you’ve probably been getting your shaving cream from a can. This blue/green, chemically laced goop does nothing for your face and smells like a hospital. Traditional shave creams and soaps on the other hand are full of natural ingredients that nourish your face and leave you smelling absolutely manly. While these high quality creams and soaps may cost more than the can stuff, just a dab creates copious amounts of lather.

The Technique

Prep your beard.
If you want a clean shave, you need to prep your beard adequately. The goal during beard prep is to soften your whiskers so shaving is easier and causes less irritation. The best way to soften your beard is to shave right when you get out of the shower. The hot water from the shower should hydrate and soften your beard enough for shaving. If you haven’t showered, at least wet your whiskers with some hot water. A hot towel is also a great way to soften stubble.

Lather up.
Take a small dollop (about the size of nickel) of shave cream and place it in a mug. Take your brush that you’ve presoaked with water and swirl the cream around until you get a nice thick lather. Apply the lather with your brush in swirling motions. When your face is covered, take a few strokes to smooth everything out.

Shave.
Unlike shaving with cartridge razors, shaving with a safety razor actually requires some skill and technique. Once mastered, though, you should be shaving effectively in no time. The four keys to a successful shave with a safety razor are:

1. Use as little pressure as possible. You don’t need to use pressure because the weight of the safety razor is sufficient to cut your beard. If you press down, you’ll end up hacking up your face. To help counter the tendency to apply pressure, try holding the razor by the tip of the handle.

2. Angle the blade as far away from your face as possible. Angling your razor is probably the trickiest part. The proper angle is somewhere around 30 and 45 degrees. To get the proper razor angle, put the top of the razor head directly on your cheek, with the handle parallel with the floor. Now slowly lower the handle until the blade can cut your whiskers. Practice on your arm if you’re not comfortable practicing on your face.

3. Shave with the grain. While shaving against the grain can get you that smooth feel, you risk slicing your face and causing ingrown hairs. When you’re first starting out, shave with the grain of your beard. If you lather up and pass the razor more than once over your face, you’re guaranteed to get a smooth finish.

Figure 1.16 Shave with the grain of your beard to avoid slicing your face.

4. Go for beard reduction, not beard removal. The goal with shaving should be gradual beard reduction, not beard removal in one deft swoop. Most men try to get rid of their beard in one pass of the razor. This hack-and-go technique is what causes the majority of skin irritations. If you want to avoid skin irritation, lather up and pass the razor over your face several times. Your face will thank you.

These steps will take some getting used to if you have used cartridges your entire life. Keep practicing. It will begin to feel more and more natural and your shaves will greatly improve over time.

Post shave.
Rinse your face with some cold water to close your pores. Treat your face to a nice aftershave. Aftershave helps reduce any irritation that may have occurred and will leave your skin looking healthy and smelling manly.

Don’t forget.
When you’re done shaving your face, check to see if you have any nose or ear hairs that need trimming. No woman wants to see those daddy longlegs dangling from your nostrils. If your foliage is in need of pruning, use small scissors or an electric trimmer specifically designed for this purpose. And proceed carefully; you don’t want to puncture an eardrum in the attempt to de-grandpa-ize yourself.

Manly Advice: Building the Perfect Dopp Kit

When a gentleman travels, he takes with him the things he needs to look sharp and well groomed away from home. Unlike many women who require a small suitcase for their toiletries, a traveling man needs only a few essentials to be happy. Nevertheless, a man needs a place to stow these items. Enter the Dopp kit.

The Bag

The first thing you’ll need is the bag. These aren’t difficult to find. You can get a nylon travel bag for under five dollars at any big box store. They’ll get the job done.

But if you want a Dopp kit with class, leather is the only way to go. Sure, it will cost you more, but it will last forever, age nicely and become something you enjoy owning and toting around. It’s something you’ll be able to pass down to your sons and grandsons, along with the stories of the places you took it.

The Supplies

After you have your bag, it’s time to fill it up with the stuff you need to keep yourself well groomed while traveling. Most of things we suggest are common sense, others you might not have thought of but will be happy to have on hand during your adventures.

• Deodorant

• Soap and shampoo (if you’re not staying at a hotel)

• Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss

• Shaving supplies: razor, brush and cream

• Nail clippers

• Lip balm

• Band-Aids

• Safety pins

• Aspirin

• Antidiarrheal medicine

• Lint roller

• Twenty-dollar bill

• Extra pair of contact lenses

• Comb

• Q-tips

Behave Like a Gentleman

In our increasingly open and casual society, the rules of etiquette are sometimes thrown in the wastebasket with other things deemed hopelessly formal and outdated. It is true that some aspects of etiquette are based on cultural customs and lack permanence: Kissing your female boss’s hand will earn you the stink eye, not her favor. But much of what constitutes good manners is based on the sound and unchanging principles of consideration and respect. A gentleman is polite not because he is afraid of a scolding from Miss Manners, but rather because he is sensitive to the feelings and needs of others. He treats those around him with respect, and in so doing, encourages them to act likewise. And cultivating good manners is not a solely altruistic endeavor either; being a man a lady can take home to Mom and an employee a boss need not worry about causing embarrassment at an important lunch is a significant bonus.

How to Be the Perfect Party Guest

Throwing a party is a stressful endeavor. A host must worry about the food, the entertainment and whether their guests are getting along, having a good time and behaving themselves. Take one worry off the host’s list by being a winning and polite guest. Not only will you help your friend’s event be a success, you’ll find more invitations to parties in your mailbox.

Always, always, RSVP.
“RSVP” stands for “Répondez s’il vous plait,” French for “please respond.” When you receive an invitation that asks you to RSVP, the host or hostess is kindly requesting that you let them know whether or not you will be attending their function. Today’s guests have come to see the RVSP as optional. Some men believe you need to call only if you are coming; some think you need to call only if you are not coming; and some do not think you have to call either way. Sometimes RSVPing is avoided because you don’t want to face the awkwardness of telling someone you are not coming and making up an excuse about why.

However, not RSVPing is rather rude. The reason you must RSVP is that the host or hostess needs to know how to plan his or her party. They must pick the proper venue to accommodate a certain number of guests, the proper amount of party supplies, and perhaps most importantly, the right amount of food and beverages to serve the guests. By not RSVPing you keep your host completely in the dark as they attempt to prepare for their function. The host is forced to either overspend on supplies or be under-prepared for their event.

On that note, do not RSVP and then pull a no-show. Again, the host will have allotted for too much food and party favors, and these things will go to waste.

If you are attending a dinner party, offer to bring something.
Cooking up a tasty meal for several guests is no easy task. Take some of the pressure off by offering to bring the salad or dessert.