The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (18 page)

SERVES 6

4
medium artichokes (about 8 ounces each)

½
cup fruity olive oil

6
tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano cheese (see note)

Cracked or coarsely ground black pepper

Kosher salt

Bring a large pot of water to boil over medium-high heat. While water is coming to a boil, prepare artichokes. Cut off and discard stem from each artichoke so they will sit upright without wobbling. Place each artichoke on its side, and using a sharp knife, cut off and discard about ¾ inch of the top. Using scissors, trim and discard sharp tips from artichoke leaves.

Place artichokes in boiling water. Cover with lid slightly ajar, and cook artichokes until bases are tender when pierced with a knife and when leaves around base can be pulled off easily, 25 to 30

minutes. Remove and drain artichokes upside down on a plate for 5 minutes.

While artichokes are resting, prepare sauce. In a small bowl, mix together olive oil, cheese, 1

teaspoon pepper, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

To serve, arrange 1 artichoke upright on each of 4 salad plates. Spread the leaves open and using a spoon, scoop out the fuzzy center chokes. Salt and pepper the cavities, then ladle 1 tablespoon of the sauce into each artichoke. Divide remaining sauce among 4 small ramekins or bowls and place beside artichokes on salad plates. To eat, pull off leaves and dip in sauce. The hearts will be nicely seasoned with sauce when you have pulled off the outer leaves.

NOTE:
Pecorino Romano, a pale yellow, hard Italian cheese made from sheep's milk, is available in most groceries. You can substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano if desired, but the Pecorino Romano has a sharper flavor.

GRILLED CORN ON THE COB WITH

SEASONED BUTTERS

Corn on the cob grilled in the husks is delicious served slathered with any of the three seasoned
butters suggested here. The Curry Butter has a very distinctive flavor but does not overpower the
corn, the Lime Cilantro Butter is more delicate but very refreshing, while the Red Bell Pepper
Basil Butter complements the corn beautifully with its big, assertive tastes.

SERVES 8

8
ears of corn in the husks

Curry Butter
(page 323),
Lime Cliantro Butter
(page 324),
or Red Bell Pepper Basil Butter
(page 324)

Pull back, but do not remove, husks from each ear of corn. Remove and discard all the corn silk.

Pull husks back over corn. Place corn in a large bowl or pot of cold water, and soak 10 minutes.

Remove corn from water and pat dry.

Prepare a charcoal grill for a hot fire (high temperature), and when the coals are hot and gray, nestle the ears of corn in the coals. Cook 20 to 30 minutes, until kernels are hot. Remove with tongs.

Serve ears with charred husks pulled back or removed, as desired, on a warm serving platter with any of the seasoned butters.

NOTE:
If you have a gas grill, you can remove the husks and silk from the corn ears and wrap each individually in aluminum foil and grill on high about 25 to 30

minutes, turning them several times. You can also boil corn for 5 minutes and

serve it with the seasoned butters.

An average ear of corn contains 800 kernels.

SPICY FRIED CORN, VIDALIAS, AND RED

PEPPERS

This bright combination of sautéed corn, sweet onions, and red bell peppers, simmered in light
cream along with dashes of cayenne and Dijon mustard, can be prepared several hours in advance
and left at cool room temperature. At serving time it will need only to be quickly reheated. Pair
this spicy side dish with grilled salmon fillets, with barbecue ribs, or with hamburgers or turkey
burgers.

SERVES 4 TO 5

1
tablespoon unsalted butter

1
tablespoon olive oil

1
cup chopped Vidalia onion

5
cups fresh corn kernels (8 to 10 ears of corn)

1
large red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch dice

Salt

Sugar

2/3
cup light cream

1
teaspoon whole-grain Dijon mustard

Scant 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2
tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Heat butter and olive oil in a large, heavy skillet (cast iron works particularly well) over medium-high until very hot. Add onion and cook, stirring 2 minutes. Add corn, red bell pepper, 1

teaspoon salt, and 1 pinch of sugar. Sauté until vegetables have browned lightly, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir the mixture only occasionally so vegetables will stick to bottom of pan and brown.

In a bowl, whisk together cream, mustard, and cayenne, and add to vegetables in pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until cream has been almost entirely absorbed, about 3 minutes. Taste and add more salt and sugar if needed. (Corn mixture can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover loosely with lid or with foil and leave at cool room temperature. Reheat, stirring.)

To serve, mound corn mixture in a serving bowl and sprinkle with chives.

GOLDEN CORN CAKES TOPPED WITH GOAT

CHEESE AND BACON

Pan fried until golden crisp, these little cakes are made with a cornmeal batter to which creamy
goat cheese and sautéed corn and onions have been added. I serve them topped with a swirl of
extra goat cheese, bits of crumbled bacon, and a sprinkling of minced green onions. Throughout
the corn season, try them as a garnish to grilled or barbecued meats and poultry.

SERVES 6; MAKES APPROXIMATELY 20 TO 24 CORN CAKES

5
thick slices (4 to 5 ounces) bacon

2
cups fresh corn kernels (about 4 ears of corn)

1
cup chopped yellow onion

¾
cup buttermilk

1
large egg

About 5 ounces creamy goat cheese, divided

1
cup yellow cornmeal

2
teaspoons baking powder

1
teaspoon salt

½
teaspoon baking soda

1/8
teaspoon cayenne pepper

Vegetable oil for sautéing

1
bunch of green onions including 2 inches of green stems, chopped

Sauté bacon in a large, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium heat until crisp, and drain on paper towels. Chop coarsely and reserve for garnish. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the bacon drippings in skillet and discard the rest.

With skillet over medium heat, sauté corn and onions, stirring, until onions are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, combine buttermilk, egg, and ¼ cup of the goat cheese and whisk to blend. Add cornmeal, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and cayenne. Mix well. Stir in sautéed corn and onions; mixture will be thick.

Generously coat the skillet in which corn and onions were sautéed with a thin film of oil, and place over medium heat. When oil is quite hot, drop 1/8 cup batter for each corn cake into pan, leaving space around each to allow for spreading. Flatten each cake slightly with a spatula. Cook until golden brown on bottoms, about 1 minute, then turn and flatten again and cook 1 to 2 minutes more or until golden brown on bottoms and cooked through.

Drain on paper towels. When one batch of cakes is done, remove to a baking sheet and cover loosely with foil. Continue until all the batter has been used. (Corn cakes can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cool to room temperature and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Reheat, uncovered, on an ungreased baking sheet in preheated 400-degree F oven until crisp and heated through, 5 to 8

minutes.)

To serve, arrange corn cakes on a serving platter, top each cake with a generous teaspoon of the remaining goat cheese, and sprinkle with green onions and bacon.

PEPPER JACK CORN PUDDING

A generous amount of grated pepper Jack cheese gives this corn pudding its heat and distinguishes
it from others. It can be made ahead and reheated, and complements such dishes as Ribs, Deep
South Style
(page 110)
and Old-Fashioned Barbecued Chicken
(page 82).

SERVES 6

Butter for greasing pan

3
tablespoons vegetable oil

1
cup chopped leeks (white and light green parts only)

4
cups fresh corn kernels (7 to 8 ears of corn)

½
teaspoon salt

¼
teaspoon ground nutmeg

Generous 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

4
large eggs

2
cups half-and-half

8
ounces pepper Jack cheese, grated

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a shallow 2-quart ovenproof baking dish.

Heat oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat until hot. Add leeks and sauté, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add corn and cook, stirring, 5 minutes more. Remove from heat and stir in salt, nutmeg, and cayenne. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk eggs and half-and-half together until blended. Stir in corn mixture and cheese, and mix well. Transfer to the baking dish.

Bake until a knife or tester inserted into the middle comes out clean, and top is slightly brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove and cool 5 minutes. (The pudding can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat in a preheated 350-degree F oven for 25 minutes or longer.) Serve warm.

CORN AND TOMATO PUDDING WITH BASIL

This mouth-watering corn pudding can be baked ahead, then reheated with its tomato topping. A
garnish of chopped fresh basil adds flavor and color. The baked corn would be good served with
grilled burgers or fish. Try it with Goat Cheese–Stuffed Turkey Burgers
(page 45)
or with
Barbecued Salmon with a Mahogany Glaze
(page 86).

SERVES 6

2
tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for oiling baking dish

1½
cups chopped yellow onion

5
cups fresh corn kernels (8 to 10 ears of corn)

1/8
teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2½
cups half-and-half

3
large eggs

2
large egg whites

¼
teaspoon Tabasco sauce

2
cups diced seeded tomatoes, drained

½
cup chopped fresh basil

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Oil a 2-quart baking dish and set aside.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy, large skillet over medium-high heat, then add onions. Sauté until onions are translucent, about 4 minutes. Add corn kernels and sauté until cooked through, about 6

minutes. Stir in ground nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let mixture cool to room temperature.

Combine half-and-half, eggs, egg whites, and Tabasco sauce in a large bowl and whisk to blend.

Stir corn mixture into custard. Pour into prepared dish. Bake until custard is set, about 30 minutes.

(Pudding can be prepared 5 hours ahead to this point. Remove and leave at room temperature. Reheat until warm in a preheated 350-degree F oven until hot, and continue.)

Remove pudding from oven and season tomatoes with salt and pepper. Sprinkle evenly over pudding and return to oven. Bake until tomatoes are heated through, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and serve.

POLENTA TRIANGLES WITH CORN, RED

PEPPERS, AND GREEN ONIONS

These golden polenta triangles studded with bits of corn, sweet bell peppers, and green onions
make an exceptionally good side to serve with grilled steaks, lamb, or chicken. The triangles can
be completely assembled a day ahead and need only to be heated in the oven at serving time.

MAKES 16 POLENTA TRIANGLES; SERVES 8

1½
tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing pan

1
tablespoon vegetable oil

2
cups fresh corn kernels (4 ears of corn)

½
cup finely diced red bell pepper

3
green onions including 2 inches of green stems, chopped

Kosher salt

2
pinches (scant 1/8 teaspoon) cayenne pepper

3¾
cups reduced-sodium chicken stock

1
cup yellow cornmeal

6
ounces grated Monterey Jack cheese, divided

Butter an 8-inch square baking pan and set aside.

Heat oil in a medium, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron), set over medium-high heat. When hot, add corn, and cook until corn starts to brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir only occasionally so that corn can caramelize and develop a roasted flavor. Add bell pepper and onions, and stir and cook 2 minutes more. Add 1 teaspoon salt and cayenne. Taste and, if needed, season with additional salt. Set aside while you prepare polenta.

Pour chicken stock into a medium, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil.

Gradually add cornmeal in a fine stream, whisking constantly until mixture is quite thick, 5 to 8

minutes.

As soon as mixture is thick, whisk in 1½ tablespoons butter and 1 cup of the cheese, and continue whisking until both have melted. Stir in corn mixture. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Immediately pour polenta into buttered pan, and using a rubber spatula, smooth the top so it is even and level. Cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled and firm, 1 hour or longer. (Polenta can be prepared 1 day ahead; keep refrigerated.) To bake polenta, arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with generously buttered foil.

Cut polenta into 16 triangles. (Cut polenta into 2 triangles and continue to cut each triangle in half until you have 16.) Arrange triangles on baking sheet and sprinkle each with some of the remaining cheese. Bake until heated through and cheese has melted, about 10 minutes.

NOTE:
If you prefer, you can omit cutting the polenta into triangles, and serve it from the baking pan. Sprinkle the polenta with the remaining cheese and reheat in a preheated 350-degree F oven until hot, 15 minutes or longer.