The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (22 page)

WITH SPECIAL TOUCHES

For those who think all salads come from a cellophane package and a bottle, this chapter should prove that there are far more interesting alternatives. Potato salad and coleslaw, two backyard menu staples, are featured in several different

versions. These potato salads are made with red skins, Yukon Golds, and sweet

potatoes, and tossed with mayonnaise, yogurt, or warm bacon dressings.

Coleslaw gets updated with accents of Parmesan cheese, sesame seeds, fresh

ginger, or olives.

And, what tastes better with a juicy grilled steak or chop than a mixed greens salad? From the unique Grilled Caesar to the Mesclun Salad with Fennel, Oranges, and Figs, the following pages provide plenty of inspiration for the backyard cook. For those times when you want salad to stand on its own, as a light main course for lunch or supper, you’ll find scrumptious chicken and turkey salads and a distinctive wild rice and smoked salmon combination that will fit the bill.

I love to prepare salads made with beans or pasta when entertaining outdoors, because they’re so easy to assemble in advance. The ones featured here are tried and true crowd-pleasers. I’ve watched guests take seconds, even thirds, of the BLT Pasta Salad, and witnessed with amazement as a huge bowl of Black Bean, Tomato, and Avocado Salad disappeared in minutes.

Ever versatile, these salads can embellish alfresco menus in more than one way. Use them as a first course to start a meal, as an entrée to anchor it, or as a side dish in a supporting role.

OLD-FASHIONED POTATO SALAD

This is classic potato salad at its best, made with plain, honest ingredients. Yukon Golds, peeled
and diced, hold up well after cooking, and are combined with chopped hard-boiled eggs, celery,
and onions. The dressing, made with purchased mayonnaise, ball-park mustard, plus splashes of
cider vinegar and lemon, is enhanced by the addition of mashed hard-boiled eggs, which adds
body as well as rich satisfying flavor. People always take seconds of this potato salad, and a
friend once confided to me that her teenage son had consumed an entire bowl at one sitting!

SERVES 6

2
pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

4
large hard-boiled eggs, divided
(see page 15)

1½
cup chopped celery

½
cup chopped yellow onion

½
cup regular (not reduced-fat or nonfat) mayonnaise

2½
teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed

1½
teaspoons cider vinegar

1½
teaspoons ball-park mustard (not Dijon)

Kosher salt

1/8
teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Bring a large pot with 3 quarts of water to a boil. While water is coming to a boil, peel and cut potatoes into 1-inch dice. Add diced potatoes to boiling water and cook about 10 minutes, or until tender (not mushy) when pierced with a knife. Remove and drain well in a colander.

Place potatoes in a large nonreactive bowl and cool to room temperature. Chop 3 of the eggs and add to the bowl along with the celery and onion. Mix well to blend.

Mash the remaining egg in a small bowl, then add the mayonnaise, 2½ teaspoons lemon juice, vinegar, mustard, 1 teaspoon salt, and cayenne. Whisk well to blend. Add to bowl with potatoes and mix well to combine. Taste and season with more salt and a little lemon juice if needed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until needed. (Salad can be made 6 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.) When ready to serve, sprinkle salad with parsley.

GERMAN POTATO SALAD WITH FRESH DILL

German potato salad distinguishes itself from other tuber salads because it is served warm, rather
than cold. Both the potatoes and the delicious bacon dressing are still hot when tossed together.

This version, which has a lively accent of chopped fresh dill, would make a fine accompaniment to
grilled pork chops or bratwursts.

SERVES 6

2
pounds (about 12) small red-skin potatoes

4
ounces (6 to 8 slices) bacon, cut into ½-inch dice

½
cup finely chopped red onion

½
cup white wine vinegar

2
teaspoons whole-grain Dijon mustard

2
teaspoons sugar

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼
cup chopped fresh dill, plus 2 or 3 sprigs for garnish

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and add potatoes. Bring to a boil again and cook potatoes until just tender when pierced with a knife, 12 to 15 minutes. (Don’t overcook or potatoes will be mushy.) Drain potatoes in a colander and cool just long enough so that you can handle them comfortably. Peel potatoes, if desired, or leave skins on. Slice into ¼-inch-thick slices.

Place in a bowl, and cover with a clean kitchen towel to keep warm.

In a large, heavy skillet, sauté the bacon pieces until brown and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Pour off and discard all but about 3 tablespoons of the drippings in the pan. Place pan over medium-low heat until hot. Add onion and sauté, stirring, until soft, about 2 minutes. Whisk in vinegar, ½ cup water, mustard, sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, and ¼

teaspoon pepper. Simmer 1 minute or more, until mixture has reduced by about ⅓.

Add potatoes to skillet. Toss gently, coating potatoes with dressing. Let potatoes sit for 2 to 3

minutes to absorb dressing. Sprinkle with bacon pieces and chopped dill, and toss gently. Season with more salt and pepper if needed.

Arrange potato salad in an attractive shallow serving bowl and garnish the center with a bouquet of dill sprigs. Serve warm.

ROASTED POTATO SALAD WITH DILL AND

MINT DRESSING

Roasted, rather than boiled, potatoes tossed in a dressing made with sour cream, yogurt, and
chopped fresh herbs make this potato salad different from the usual offerings. It is delicious
served with grilled lamb or chicken or as an accompaniment to baked ham or ribs.

SERVES 6

¼
cup olive oil, plus extra for oiling baking sheet

3
pounds red-skin potatoes, unpeeled

6
cloves garlic, peeled

1
teaspoon dried dill (see note)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

⅓
cup plain regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) yogurt

⅓
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) sour cream

2/3
cup chopped red onion

⅓
cup chopped fresh dill, plus an extra sprig for garnish

2
tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves, plus an extra sprig for garnish
1
pint cherry or grape tomatoes for garnish

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Generously oil a large, heavy, rimmed baking sheet.

Halve potatoes, then cut each half into ¾-inch-thick wedges and spread them on the oiled baking sheet. Process ¼ cup oil, garlic, dried dill, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in a food processor or blender, until the garlic is very finely minced. Remove and pour the garlic-scented oil over the potatoes in the pan. Toss the potatoes until they are all coated, then spread them in a single layer in the pan.

Roast potatoes, stirring them every 10 minutes to prevent sticking, until they are golden brown and tender, 45 to 55 minutes. Transfer contents of pan, scraping everything, including oil and roasted garlic bits, into a large bowl. Cool potatoes to room temperature.

To prepare dressing, whisk together yogurt and sour cream in a small bowl and then stir in red onion, fresh dill, mint, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Add to bowl with cooled potatoes and toss well to mix. (If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

To serve, mound salad in center of a shallow serving bowl or on a platter. Garnish with a border of cherry or grape tomatoes and a sprig of fresh dill and mint in center.

NOTE:
Dried dill works best as a seasoning when roasting potatoes. Fresh dill is used in the dressing and as a garnish in this salad.

The most popular side dish prepared on the grill is the roasted potato, followed by
steamed vegetables, then marinated vegetables.

ROASTED SWEET POTATO SALAD WITH

LIME AND HONEY

“Lime and honey are a heavenly partnership,” remarked one of my students after tasting this
salad, in which tart and sweet flavors are beautifully balanced. Cubes of roasted sweet potatoes
are tossed with a lime and honey dressing, then dusted with a sprinkling of cilantro. The salad
makes a colorful dish that is especially good as an accompaniment to grilled pork or chicken.

SERVES 6

3
pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes
(see note, page 160)

¼
cup olive oil

Kosher salt

2
tablespoons lime juice, plus more if needed

2
teaspoons grated lime zest

2
tablespoons honey

¼
cup chopped fresh cilantro for garnish

Arrange an oven rack at lower position and preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet (or use 2 standard sheets) with aluminum foil. Peel sweet potatoes and cut into 1-inch cubes to yield 8 cups. Spread cubes on baking sheet, and drizzle with olive oil. Toss well so that all cubes are lightly coated. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons salt over potatoes. (If using 2 sheets, divide ingredients equally between them.)

Roast potatoes, stirring every 10 minutes, until cubes are brown around the edges and tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 to 25 minutes. Watch carefully, as they can start to burn quickly.

(If using 2 baking sheets, place 1 sheet on lower level and the other on center level. Reverse sheets after 15 minutes.) Transfer potatoes to a serving bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Whisk together lime juice, zest, and honey in a small bowl. Pour over potatoes and toss gently to mix. Taste and season with more salt and 1 to 2 teaspoons additional lime juice if needed. (Salad can be assembled 30 minutes ahead; leave at room temperature.)

When ready to serve, sprinkle salad with cilantro.

COLESLAW WITH SPANISH OLIVES

When a friend arrived at our house with this out-of-the-ordinary coleslaw, I loved the unique
flavor but couldn’t figure out what made this version so distinctive. When I quizzed my pal, Betty
Couvares, she explained that her mother, while making coleslaw one day, discovered too late that
she was out of vinegar and tossed in chopped Spanish olives instead. This serendipitous creation
has remained a favorite in my friend’s family for years. The olives (the taste I couldn’t detect)
impart a salty, slightly tart note and keep the slaw from being cloyingly sweet. This slaw goes well
with Ribs, Deep South Style
(page 110)
and with Barbecued Salmon with a Mahogany Glaze (page

86).

SERVES 6

1
medium (2-pound) green cabbage with attractive outer leaves

2
medium carrots, finely chopped

1¼
cups (about 7¼ ounces) whole Spanish olives stuffed with pimentos (see note)
3
tablespoons regular (not reduced-fat or nonfat) mayonnaise

3
tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Remove 4 to 5 of the attractive outer leaves from cabbage, rinse, and pat dry. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator until you are ready to garnish slaw.

Cut cabbage into ¼-inch-wide slices until you get to the core. Discard the core and chop the cabbage slices coarsely. Measure 8 cups chopped cabbage and put into a medium nonreactive bowl.

(Save extra cabbage for another use.)

Add carrots to cabbage. Chop olives and add to bowl. Stir in mayonnaise and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. (The slaw can be prepared up to 6 hours ahead.

Keep refrigerated.)

To serve, line a shallow serving bowl with the reserved cabbage leaves. Stir chives into slaw and mound in bowl.

NOTE:
Spanish olives stuffed with pimentos, usually sold in glass jars, are available in the condiment section of the grocery. I’ve tried other olives,

including French, Italian, and Greek types, but this recipe always works best with the ordinary Spanish olives.

SESAME AND GINGER COLESLAW

Cabbage, spinach, and carrots provide a trio of complementary colors and textures in this slaw.

Tossed with a distinctive dressing made with toasted sesame oil and fresh chopped ginger, it is
particularly good with Pork Tenderloins with Peach Ginger Sauce
(page 66)
and with Grilled
Lobster Tails with Citrus Butter
(page 97)
.

SERVES 6