The Greater Journey: Americans in Paris (84 page)

18
“Then the waters rise up”:
Ibid., 10–11.

18
Thus with the raging element:
Ibid.

18
“the rocking and rolling”:
Ibid., 2.

19
“If any lady of your village”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 14.

19
“Literally ‘cabined’”:
Donald,
Charles Sumner and the Coming of the Civil War
, 45.

19
“Bay of Fundy tide”:
Pierce,
Memoir and Letters of Charles Sumner
, Vol. I, 215.

19
In going abroad at my present age:
Ibid., 214.

20
“cataract of French postulation”:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 27.

20
“vexatious ceremony”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 25.

20
In conversation with an English-speaking:
Ibid.

20
“to pay the Virgin Mary”:
Ibid., 15.

21
“Everything was old”:
Pierce,
Memoir and Letters of Charles Sumner
, Vol. I, 218.

21
“beyond the reach”:
Ibid.

21
“none of the prestige”:
Ibid.

21
“If you feel very aristocratic”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 26.

22
I looked at the constantly occurring ruins:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 32.

23
“inexpressible magic”:
Willard,
Journal and Letters, from France and Great Britain
, 27.

23
I had heard of fifty:
Ibid., 26–27.

23
“the great lion of the north”:
Pierce,
Memoir and Letters of Charles Sumner
, Vol. I, 221.

24
And here was I:
Ibid., 222.

24
In an account of his own first stop:
Cooper,
Gleanings in Europe: France
, Vol. I, 76.

Of the contemporary books about Paris drawn on for this chapter,
Pencillings by the Way
by Nathaniel Willis, John Sanderson’s two-volume
The American in Paris
, and James Fenimore Cooper’s
Gleanings in Europe: France
are outstanding. Sanderson’s first volume in particular is a jewel, one of the best books about Paris by an American ever written. Of the letters and journal entries, those by Charles Sumner and Oliver Wendell Holmes are invariably descriptive and revealing.

PAGE

25
The origin of Paris:
Galignani’s New Paris Guide
, 1827, 1.

26
“Voilà Paris!”: Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 31.

26
“And with my mind full”:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 36.

26
“The streets run zig-zag”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 33.

26
“dirt and gilding”:
Cooper,
Letters and Journals of James Fenimore Cooper
, Vol. I, 145.

26
“We were amidst”:
Willard,
Journal and Letters, from France and Great Britain
, 30.

27
“quite pretty” rooms:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 37.

27
There are few things:
Ibid., 37.

28
indispensable was
Galignani’s New Paris Guide: See, for example,
Galignani’s New Paris Guide
, 1827, 182.

28
“the bread is fine”:
Willard,
Journal and Letters, from France and Great Britain
, 32.

28
“Miss D”:
Ibid., 33.

28
We took the rounds:
Ibid., 34.

29
a few “wearable things”:
Ibid.

29
“When I went in”:
Morse,
Samuel F. B. Morse: His Letters and Journals
, Vol. I, 316.

29
In her turn:
Willard,
Journal and Letters
,
from France and Great Britain
, 39.

29
“His heart seemed to expand”:
Ibid., 40.

29
“If he keeps near the wall”:
Oliver Wendell Holmes to his parents, May 31, 1833, Holmes Papers, Houghton Library, Harvard University.

30
Holmes, like his fellow Bostonians:
Morse,
Life and Letters of Oliver Wendell Holmes
, Vol. I, 85; Dowling,
Oliver Wendell Holmes in Paris
, 184.

30
The cold continues intolerable:
Pierce,
Memoir and Letters of Charles Sumner
, Vol. I, 241.

30
“I freeze behind”:
Ibid.

31
“My voyage has already been compensated”:
Ibid., 234.

31
flâner: Morse,
Life and Letters of Oliver Wendell Holmes
, Vol. I, 88.

31
“Ah! To wander”:
Balzac,
Works of Honoré de Balzac
, Vol. II, 133.

31
Interestingly, “Home, Sweet Home”:
Overmyer,
America’s First Hamlet
, 202.

31
“If you get into melancholy”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 128.

32
“uniform politeness”: Galignani’s New Paris Guide
, 1827, 27.

32
“Indeed,” wrote Holmes:
Morse,
Life and Letters of Oliver Wendell Holmes
, Vol. I, 101.

32
“the originality of American civilization”:
Tocqueville,
Democracy in America
, 46.

33
“You ask a man the way”:
Appleton,
Life and Letters of Thomas Gold Appleton
, 135.

33
“Don’t you hate to see”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 57.

33
how he had “decorated” himself:
Longfellow,
Letters of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow
, Vol. I, 173.

33
“the glory of a little French hat”:
Ibid.

34
“You should remember that you are an American”:
Calhoun,
Longfellow: A Rediscovered Life
, 44.

34
No matter what is the article of trade:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 38.

34
“caressing and caressing”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 67.

35
“The French dine to gratify”:
Ibid., 87.

35
“in blending flavors”:
Cooper,
Gleanings in Europe: France
, Vol. I, 124.

35
A dinner here:
Ibid., 125.

35
“loud modern New York”:
Emerson,
The Journals and Notebooks of Ralph Waldo Emerson
, ed. Ferguson, Vol. IV, 197.

35
“the most hospitable of cities”:
Ibid.

36
Then a person who cut profiles:
Ibid., 198.

36
Nathaniel Willis kept seeing:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 84.

36
“impatient of all levity”:
Arnold,
Memoir of Jonathan Mason Warren, M.D.
, 51.

37
Happy the nation:
Sterne,
A Sentimental Journey Through France and Italy
, 125.

37
John Sanderson hired a cabriolet:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 47.

37
“It is a queer feeling”:
Willis,
Pencillings by the Way
, 43.

37
No sooner had Cooper settled in Paris:
Cooper,
Gleanings in Europe: France
, Vol. I, 277.

37
“He calls the Tuileries”:
Ibid., 281.

38
The captain commenced:
Ibid., 278.

38
best “look-out”:
Ibid., 88.

38
We were fortunate:
Ibid., 89.

38
The domes sprung up:
Ibid., 90.

39
“peculiarities”:
Ibid.

39
“confused glittering”:
Ibid.

39
Charles Sumner, for his part:
Pierce,
Memoir and Letters of Charles Sumner
, Vol. I, 276.

39
“streets without houses”:
Ibid., 133.

39
“It only grows under”:
Ibid.

39
“great design”:
Ibid.

40
“We must, if it be possible”:
Hugo,
Notre-Dame of Paris
, 28.

40
“That, its author”:
Ibid.

40
“The atmosphere brightened”:
Sanderson,
The American in Paris
, Vol. I, 166.