The Islands (39 page)

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Authors: Di Morrissey

BOOK: The Islands
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‘It's amazing. The whole sensation. It's like the wave is alive, it helps you, it felt . . . I can't explain it.'

He dropped his arm around her shoulder. ‘You don't have to.'

They picked up their boards, PJ taking her longer one. She slipped her arm around his waist as they walked back along the beach where a few early morning walkers were strolling along the sand. A gardener was sweeping the terrace of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, its pink facade glowing in the early morning sun.

Catherine couldn't stop talking about the whole experience. It was not just the thrill of the ride but the fact she'd actually stood up the first time. PJ listened with a half smile, occasionally nodding, or answering a question.

She was beginning to understand Lester's explanation of the passion, the obsession, the spiritual connection that watermen have with the sea. It was a self absorption that centred on only them and the wave, its rhythm, its force, its flow that was akin to being in an hypnotic state. Except – as only a surfer knows – you are dancing on waves.

She was ravenous and they ate a big breakfast, Catherine indulging herself with pancakes, bacon and maple syrup. It was a small outdoor café close to the beach and they propped their boards against the low rock wall while they ate. Catherine had pulled the damp T-shirt back on and had the beach towel wrapped around her waist.

They were finishing their coffee when she heard her name.

‘Catherine?'

Surprised, she turned around to see Julia Bensen and another woman walking along the beach towards them. Julia looked frankly curious, glancing from the handsome blond surfer to the wet and dishevelled Catherine.

‘Hi, Julia. Wonderful morning. You're up early,' said Catherine.

‘Obviously not as early as you. What're you doing?' asked Julia staring at PJ, who smiled at her and picked up his coffee cup and drained it.

‘I've had a surfing lesson. This is my instructor. We've been out since before sunrise,' said Catherine cheerily, trying not to look as uncomfortable as she felt.

‘Really? Surfing lessons. What fun,' said the other woman.

‘She's pretty damn good. Stood up first go,' said PJ.

‘You are a busy person,' said Julia. ‘I don't know how you find time to fit everything in.' She had a slightly accusing tone and Catherine knew she was referring to a recent Wives' Club event she'd missed.

‘That's why we're out before sunrise,' said PJ. ‘Excuse me, Catherine. I'll get the tab.' He walked inside to the counter.

‘This will be a nice surprise for Bradley when he gets back. Will he be taking lessons too?' asked Julia.

‘No, he's a swimmer not a surfer. That's why I'm learning while he's away. What are you doing down here?'

‘Oh, sorry. This is my friend Bonnie. She's visiting from Ohio. She's also an early riser,' said Julia.

‘I live on a farm,' smiled Bonnie. ‘And where're you from?'

‘Australia. Actually, I live on a farm too, but I have some Australian surfer friends visiting here. They're travelling round the world surfing and will be back here for the big championships at the end of the year.' Catherine hoped Damien didn't suddenly appear to dispute their long friendship.

‘Well, I hope we meet again. Good luck with the lessons.'

‘Thanks. Enjoy your visit. See you, Julia. Next Tuesday, isn't it?' said Catherine, who'd had no intention of going to the Wives' Club tea but now thought better of it. No doubt Julia would mention all this in dispatches to her husband, Jim.

‘That's right. Remember me to Bradley when you write.'

‘Thanks. Same to Jim.'

Walking back through town where shops were beginning to open, PJ said, ‘Navy wives, huh? You'll be the talk of the town no doubt.'

‘Possibly. They never do anything exciting. Don't mix much outside the navy circle.'

‘Not like our surfer gal here. Wait till I tell the boys how well you did.'

Damien was cooking breakfast as PJ told him about Catherine. ‘Get away! Good on you! Not too many chicks have a go. And you're a bush girl too. So you coming out tomorrow?'

‘I'm not sure, Damien. I don't want to take PJ away from his surfing. And if I'm having lessons, I should pay you, PJ.'

‘I enjoy your company. If you want a couple of lessons I'll trade you for some of your photos during the championships later in the year.'

‘Sounds a good deal to me,' said Damien, sitting down to a pile of scrambled eggs.

Catherine quickly showered and got dressed. ‘Thanks for the loan of the bikini. I'd better collect Lester's book.'

PJ put Lester's album on the back seat of Catherine's car and leant through the driver's window and kissed her lightly on the cheek.

‘I'm proud of you. Come at the end of the day if you want to go out, when the wind has dropped.'

‘I don't want to stay on baby waves forever,' she teased.

‘Listen to you. Go and tell Lester how you felt this morning.'

‘I think he'll be really pleased with me,' said Catherine. ‘Thank you, PJ. You're very understanding.'

They stared at each other and PJ nodded, knowing she wasn't just referring to the surf lesson. He hadn't pushed her, he hadn't mentioned their lovemaking on Kauai, he hadn't made her feel uncomfortable. Their relationship had become a friendship laced with a past and an uncertain future. But Catherine felt safe. And although his kiss and touch had been warm and casual, she knew they were standing at a gateway. It would be her decision to go through it, or turn and walk away.

Catherine jumped around Lester's living room, showing him how she'd leapt to her feet on the board, posing as she pretended to ride an imaginary wave. He chuckled.

‘So you're hooked now, I can tell. PJ sounds like a good teacher. Some guys can't explain it well, they can only show you how they do it, which doesn't always help. Now you just have to get out there and keep cracking waves. You do want to do that, don't you?'

‘It's a challenge. I like that. But it's the feeling . . . that being lifted up, being part of that energy . . . I can't explain. Well, you know what I mean.'

‘I do,' he said softly. ‘PJ's given you a gift you'll keep all your life. I tried to get a few gals interested in my time. A couple were really good. It's too bad more girls don't surf. They think they have to sit on the beach and admire the guys. And the guys like it that way! So, you going to get that husband of yours into it?'

‘I don't think so. No way,' said Catherine. ‘Gosh, I hope we don't get transferred to some landlocked place. That'd be awful. Anyway, we have a couple more years here.'

‘I hope so! I'll miss you if you move away. Keep this as your home base.'

‘I'm not going anywhere for a bit. Maybe you could come and sit at the beach and watch me have another go sometime? Then you could get out on a board with PJ again. We could all go together,' enthused Catherine.

‘I'd enjoy that,' he said. ‘But you'll find surfing is a very individual thing. So, you giving up your morning swims with Kiann'e and going surfing?'

‘No. PJ suggested I go out with him at the end of the day after he's finished working and lessons and stuff.'

Kiann'e listened to Catherine's bubbling description of her surfing experience.

‘You seemed to have surprised yourself. Is that because you come from the country? Or has PJ got a lot to do with it?'

‘He's a terrific teacher.' And seeing Kiann'e's amused look, she added, ‘Of course he does! He's a real soul surfer . . .'

‘So he's into grooving on the feeling and not surfing to get on the circuit? A lot of the local guys get a bit gnarley – to use their expression – about the outsiders coming in and surfing their breaks,' said Kiann'e. ‘Abel John gets pretty heavy about it.'

‘Like some of the Aussies who're doing so well. But they move on; seems that a lot of the Californians are moving here to stay. Anyway I think I might do a picture story on PJ and his boards for the paper.'

‘Well, you're spending a lot of time with him. You saw him on Kauai too, didn't you?'

Catherine felt guilty about not being able to tell her about the episode with PJ. She wondered how much Kiann'e suspected about what had happened on Kauai and didn't want to ask. It wasn't fair to Bradley to talk about what had happened between her and PJ and she still suffered pangs of guilt when she thought about it. But her relationship with PJ was different now. They were just friends, no cause for embarrassment at all.

The two girls were heading back along the beach when they noticed a knot of people and equipment in front of an apartment block. As they got closer they could see stands with silver screens bouncing the sunlight onto two people standing over a body lying on the sand.

‘God, has someone died? What's going on?' Catherine shaded her eyes to see better. ‘They look like movie people. Oh, yes, they're filming
Hawaii Five-O
. Let's go watch.'

They joined several other beachgoers who had gathered to watch a scene being filmed for one of America's favourite TV shows, but as everyone seemed to be just standing around they moved on.

When they told Lester what had happened, he was disappointed he'd missed it all. ‘I'm a big fan of the star, Jack Lord, who plays Steve McGarrett. So what's news, young ladies?'

‘I was thinking, Lester, would you like to come to Aunty's luau on Saturday?' asked Kiann'e.

‘So long as it's just a smallish affair. Don't like big crowds anymore.'

‘Great, Catherine and I will sort out collecting you.' Kiann'e turned to Catherine. ‘Would you like to ask PJ? He'd be company for Lester. Maybe you guys could bring Lester and drop him back when he's ready.'

For Catherine, Aunty Lani and Uncle Henry's luau was as she'd come to expect and enjoy when she was with Hawaiians. Being thrown into the heart of a family with lots of people, lots of noise, laughter, music and food was fun and having PJ along, to look after Lester, was a bonus. PJ was happy to sit in the background with the old man, talking to those around them and smiling at Catherine as she helped Kiann'e pass plates of food and top up drinks.

After several hours, when the afternoon had waned and the ukuleles and slack-key guitars came out and people began to settle in for the evening, PJ took Catherine aside.

‘Lester's tired now. He's had a ball, but he's ready to go home. I'll take him back. Okay?'

‘Thanks, PJ. I'll pack up some leftover kalua pig and rice and poi for him. Hang on.'

‘You know, you're really like family with these people. Sharing poi and so on . . . I hadn't pictured you like this,' said PJ. ‘You're not the outsider I'd figured. But I understand why they like you so much. See you tomorrow. We might try a different board.'

‘Great. I'll just say bye to Lester.'

Out in the front of the house Catherine gave the old man a hug and Aunty Lani also farewelled him with a big embrace.

‘It's been too long, Lester. I thought you'd become a hermit. You get these kids to bring you out more often. You're always welcome. Beatrice will be happy to know you came along.'

‘Mahalo, Lani,' he answered.

Aunty and Catherine watched PJ carefully settle Lester in his old car and waved as they drove away.

‘Two of a kind, I'd say,' said Aunty Lani.

‘Yes. I'm so fond of Lester. I miss my dad,' sighed Catherine.

Aunty was thoughtful. ‘You and Kiann'e are the closest thing Lester has to family. Introducing him to your surfing friend was wonderful.' She turned to Catherine. ‘I like PJ but I bet he has the wandering spirit.'

‘He's just a friend. I'm pretty well anchored in my life,' she answered.

Aunty Lani looked at her. ‘Sometimes an anchor isn't what you need, but full sails filled with wind to travel through life. Don't get trapped in the harbour, dear girl.' And with that enigmatic statement she sailed off to where everyone was settling in the garden around the fire pit. The tiki torches were being lit as musicians banded together and Kiann'e was being urged to dance.

Reluctantly Catherine went to the Wives' Club morning tea. Julia brought along her friend Bonnie and when she was introduced around the group, Bonnie smiled at Catherine.

‘Oh, we met at the beach the other morning when you were surfing.'

‘Surfing? You surf?' commented Mrs Goodwin looking at Catherine in surprise. ‘Oh, of course, you're Australian.'

‘You mean on a surfboard or body surfing?' asked Melanie.

‘She was there with a surfboard and a very handsome instructor,' said Julia. ‘My, you must have been out early.'

‘We were. Sunrise is one of the best times to surf, besides my days are so busy,' added Catherine quickly.

‘I see,' said Mrs Goodwin. ‘Shall we move on?'

As they were leaving, Mrs Goodwin stopped Catherine. ‘Have you heard from Bradley recently?'

‘Oh, yes. He's very diligent about writing.'

‘As you are too, I'm sure. The men like to have regular news from home. However, I wouldn't necessarily mention these surfing lessons,' she said briskly. And seeing Catherine's surprised look, added, ‘The old adage of keeping the home fires burning, not worrying our boys with trivial matters that could be misinterpreted and letting them know you are busy and involved with the other wives is very comforting for them.'

‘So Bradley tells me,' answered Catherine sweetly. ‘I'm looking forward to our next phone call. His main concern is that I keep busy, active and happy, and I'm doing just as he asks. Goodbye, Mrs Goodwin.'

Catherine stood at her kitchen window looking at busy Pearl Harbor. She missed the view from their lanai at the TradeWinds apartment. This place didn't feel like her own space, although with Bradley's absence she ate the food she wanted, when she wanted, she kept the hours she wanted and she realised, she was leading the life she wanted. She wondered if this was to be the pattern of her marriage. Would it be hard to readjust to living with Bradley again?

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