The Joy of Gluten-Free, Sugar-Free Baking (2 page)

This is not an allergen-free cookbook. Anyone who has tree nut allergies will not be able to eat the baked goods in this book—sorry. Dairy
intolerance shouldn’t be an issue, as there are many alternative milks widely available and all work well in these recipes. Our goal is to provide a resource for people who are sensitive to gluten or have difficulty with sugar and carbs. Again, if food allergies prevent you from using the recipes in this book, see the Resources section, where we’ve listed several cookbooks written to accommodate other food sensitivities.

Gluten sensitivity, which can range from slight reactions to a life-threatening condition, is becoming an increasingly common issue. Though we won’t get into the details, we do think it’s helpful to outline some terms and distinctions.
Wheat intolerance,
which is fairly common, lies at the mild end of the spectrum and refers to difficulties digesting wheat. Common symptoms include bloating, diarrhea, and fatigue. Depending on the level of wheat intolerance, people may be able to tolerate limited amounts of wheat or wheat hybrids such as spelt if eaten infrequently.

Wheat allergy
refers to an actual allergic reaction to wheat, which, when severe, may cause anaphylactic shock; this is obviously life-threatening—but also relatively uncommon,
occurring in less than 0.5 percent of the U.S. population. Those with genuine wheat
allergies must avoid eating any foods containing wheat or wheat hybrids.

Finally,
gluten
intolerance
refers to
celiac disease, a serious autoimmune disorder of the small intestine that affects less than 1 percent of the U.S. population. It occurs in people of all ages and has a strong ge
netic component. Symptoms of celiac disease are often similar to those of wheat intolerance and include chronic diarrhea and fatigue. However, symptoms may not manifest until an accumulation of exposure causes a major health crisis. At that point, symptoms are typically numerous and unpleasant at best. In addition, those with celiac disease are more likely to suffer from a host of other medical conditions, from other autoimmune conditions to intestinal cancer to
diabetes.

Celiac disease is caused by a reaction to wheat proteins, mainly gliadin (a component of gluten), creating severe bowel disorders that result in general malnutrition and constant inflammation. The only known treatment for celiac disease is complete avoidance of gluten.

Our objective when creating these recipes was to keep the carbohydrate content as low as possible. Denene uses carb
counting to assess quantities of net carbohydrates. We’ll assume that you’re familiar with carb counting. If you aren’t you can read up on it at
www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/search
or
www.nutritionvalue.org
. The key to calculating net carbs is to subtract the total fiber from the total carbohydrates (usually in grams). The result is the net carbs. The lower the net carbs, the lower the glycemic load. All of our recipes have 10 net carbs or less per serving, and most have far fewer. For example,
Toasting Bread
has 1 net carb per serving. Note that this is only true of the recipes as written, using alternative sweeteners, unsweetened applesauce and soy milk, and minimal amounts of fruit. The low number of net carbs also relies on using full-fat dairy products. If you substitute reduced-fat ingredients, there will be less fat to buffer whatever carbs the final product does contain, so the effect on blood sugar is likely to be greater.

Simply stated, glucose (aka blood sugar) is sugar that our bodies convert into energy. It falls into the category of simple sugars (monosaccharides), which are the basic building blocks of all carbohydrates. Its root word in ancient Greek,
glukus
, means “sweet.” It provides many positive functions for us (like fueling the brain!), but it is also at the root of diabetes, a disease that’s reaching epidemic proportions in the United States and many other countries. The causes and mechanisms of diabetes and related conditions are far too complicated to
explain here, but we will give a brief overview. Insulin, a hormone produced in the pancreas, helps the body use or store excess glucose in the bloodstream. In a healthy body, blood sugar levels increase slightly after a meal, then the pancreas releases insulin to keep blood sugar levels within a normal range. If blood sugar levels get too high, this can cause all sorts of damage to the body, especially to the eyes, kidneys, and, eventually, the heart.

The bottom line is that elevated blood glucose levels are often a sign of diabetes or prediabetes and cause for concern. If you suspect that you have issues with blood sugar levels, including hypoglycemia (abnormally low blood sugar levels), you should seek testing immediately. Your doctor will know which test to administer. And whether or not you have diabetic or prediabetic issues, if your diet is anything like that of most Americans, you’re probably consuming too many carbs, which ultimately means too much glucose.

Glycemic index (GI) is a rating of the effect of foods that contain carbohydrates on blood sugar levels. Specifically, the rating is based on how quickly the carbohydrates break down during digestion and how rapidly they release glucose into the bloodstream. The more quickly they release glucose into the bloodstream, the higher their GI. Foods with a low GI release glucose more slowly and steadily, while those with a high GI cause a more rapid rise in blood sugar levels. Most diabetics now have a pretty good understanding of the glycemic index, as do those who have followed various diet programs like the South Beach Diet, Sugar Busters, or the Belly Fat Cure. It’s a helpful tool for keeping blood sugar and insulin levels under control. (There are links to reliable sources for more information on this subject in the Resources section.)

Glycemic load (GL) is a way to rank the carb content in foods by considering both portion size and the food’s glycemic index rating. This helps you know how that portion will impact your blood sugar levels. The formula used to determine glycemic load is GI multiplied by the amount of available carbohydrates, divided by 100. (Available carbohydrates are measured in grams and exclude indigestible fiber.) Multiplying the glycemic index by the amount of carbohydrates in a serving of food gives a better idea of the effect of that serving on blood sugar levels. For example, a 100-gram serving of a piece of fruit with a GI of 70 and a carbohydrate content of 6 grams results in the calculation 70 × 6 = 420; when divided by 100, that’s a GL of 4.2.

The presence of fat or fiber slows the release of glucose into the bloodstream and can therefore lower the overall glycemic load. Our goal in this book was to create recipes that have a very low GL so they won’t have an adverse effect on blood sugar, making them accessible
to people with insulin and blood sugar issues. However, do bear in mind that GI and GL are just tools; every person is different, and there is no single dietary approach that is right for everyone. If you are diabetic, you probably know more about this topic than we provided in this brief explanation, and hopefully you are working with a doctor to manage your condition.

If you’re at all savvy about nutrition, you’re probably wondering about whether baking with fruit is an issue. After all, fruit contains sugar. This is a valid concern. Adding fruit does add sugars and carbs (the same is true of many vegetables). But sugars that come as part of a whole food, such as raisins, cranberries, apples, or sweet potatoes, are accompanied by fiber, protein, and many other nutrients in that whole food, and this tends to lessen the glycemic impact and effect on blood sugar levels. Still, because our goal is to give you recipes with minimal glycemic load, we aren’t heavy-handed with fruit, using it only in selected recipes and only in small amounts. If insulin and blood sugar levels aren’t an issue for you, feel free to increase the amount of fruit or vegetables in these recipes. (In fact, you can even replace the sugar substitutes with regular sugar if you are so inclined; we’ll discuss this in greater detail in the pantry section.)

In this chapter, we’ll discuss ingredients that we call for frequently or that are unusual and also explain how to make nut and seed flours. We’ll also outline the equipment you’ll need in a tutorial showing basic mixing and baking methods that apply to nearly every recipe in this book. The recipes are actually quite easy to make, so once you’ve read through this section, you’ll be able to jump right in and start whipping up your own homemade treats. In fact, the recipes are so easy to make that you can jump in without reading any of the introductory sections—except for the material on
making your own nut and seed flours
, which is a must. Still, we think the information in this chapter will prove both helpful and interesting, so we encourage you to read all of it. Of course, over time new information will become available and new recipes will arise, so we’ve created a website where we can share new recipes and techniques and also answer questions:
www.thejoyofgluten-freesugar-freebaking.com
.

Some of the ingredients you will need for the recipes in this book are fairly typical and may already be in your pantry or refrigerator. You may need to purchase others, and there are some that you’ll have to make yourself. (Not to worry: Doing so is easy, and we’ll explain how in this section.) For the ingredients that are available commercially, many are available at well-stocked natural food stores and even supermarkets, and if not, they are available online or by mail order (see the
Resources
section or our website for suppliers).

A few years ago hardly anyone knew about almond flour; now, thanks to gluten-free cookbooks by authors like Elana Amsterdam, it has worked its way into the mainstream. That’s a great start. Now, in this book, we’re going to stretch the boundaries and utilize flours made from a wide variety of other nuts and seeds. The alternative flours we use most often are almond, coconut, hazelnut, pecan, and sesame seed, along with flaxseed meal. Only a few of these are commercially available, typically almond flour, coconut flour, hazelnut flour, and flaxseed meal; pecan flour is available from some producers but is hard to find. (And note that they may be labeled “meal,” not “flour,” as in “almond meal.”) Bob’s Red Mill makes all
of these flours, along with a wide variety of other gluten-free products, and these are generally available in well-stocked markets—and always available online. In the next section, we’ll give you precise instructions for making all of the alternative flours.

Of course, alternative sweeteners also play a huge role in these recipes. And because we know many readers may have other dietary considerations, we’ve made these recipes flexible in regard to ingredients like butter, milk, and eggs. So, yes, in addition to being gluten-free and low in carbohydrates, essentially all of these recipes are vegan-friendly. (By the way, if you have trouble finding any of the commercially available ingredients, check out the
Resources
section. And, as new sources emerge, we’ll list them on our website.)

In addition to almond, coconut, hazelnut, pecan, and sesame seed flour and flaxseed meal, we sometimes call for flours made from pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, walnuts, and even garbanzo beans (chickpeas). And as you will see, many of the recipes have variations that involve using different types of flour. All of the nut and seed flours are interchangeable, and the possible combinations are almost endless. We encourage you to use the recipes in this book as a template for experimentation. Play with the flours and combinations and discover what qualities different flours impart and which blends you like best. You can also substitute flours made from other nuts, such as pistachios, macadamia nuts, and even peanuts.

We recognize that nuts and seeds and the flours made from them are more costly than flours made from grains (and legumes). This is unfortunate, but we believe the payoff in terms of flavor is well worth the expense. And if you’ve had to avoid bread and baked goods because of dietary concerns, you’ll probably consider the expense justified. Even so, you can considerably reduce the expense by buying nuts and seeds in bulk and making your own flours. For example, a pound of almonds is about half the price of a pound of almond flour. This difference can add up quickly. In the long run, if your choice is between store-bought “dietetic” foods, we believe making your own breads and other treats at home won’t be significantly more expensive—but will be immensely more delicious!

If making nut and seed flours at home, simply
purchase the nuts or seeds in whole form and then
grind them until powdery
. Sometimes almond flour is made from blanched almonds; however, for these recipes, that isn’t necessary. Likewise, hazelnuts need not be skinned before grinding them into flour. In both cases, the skins add fiber and nutrients, and that’s a good thing. That said, you can certainly use almond flour from blanched almonds if you prefer or if that’s what you have on hand.

If you can purchase nuts and seeds in bulk at a
store with a high turnover rate, that’s your best bet. That way they will be fresh and you can buy just a pound or two at a time, as needed. If you order by mail, you may need to buy larger quantities. Either way, store the nuts and seeds in an airtight container—preferably in the freezer if you have room, or in the refrigerator. They will keep for months. This is especially true for coconut
flour and pecan flour, which have a strong tendency to dry out if not stored in airtight containers.

One last consideration about
working with nut and seed flours: Just as with wheat flour, some brands of almond or pecan flour may be drier than others, and the almond and other nut flours you make at home may also have a different moisture content. Because of these natural variations, the consistency of a dough or batter may not be as described in the recipe. (This can also occur because of inaccurate measuring, using different sizes of eggs, and so on.) Begin with the quantities of ingredients called for in the recipe, but pay close attention to the descriptions of how various mixtures and the final product should appear and what they should feel like. If a mixture seems too dry to form it into the proper shape, it’s fine to add more liquid as needed. Likewise, if a mixture seems too wet, feel free to add a bit more nut or seed flour to reach the right consistency.

We have found that the greatest discrepancy can occur when using commercially ground pecan flour instead of home ground, and when using coconut flour that has been left open to the air and has dried out further—in both cases the flour will absorb more liquid than normal. In some instances, the amount of extra liquid needed to reach the proper consistency can be as much as an additional ¼ cup per every cup of pecan flour (beyond the amount specified in the recipe). But because the degree of discrepancy is difficult to predict, in every recipe we describe what the batter should feel and look like; use these cues to guide your adjustments.

One of the joys of working with nut and seed flours is that the recipes are very flexible and tolerant of such adjustments—which often isn’t the case for recipes made with conventional flour and yeast. The truth is, if a batter or dough is too wet, the recipe will probably turn out just fine. It may take longer to bake than the instructions indicate, but that could also happen if your oven is inaccurate. The key to success is to pay attention to the descriptions in the method, adjust the batter or dough accordingly, and use the visual and textural cues as your primary guide in determining doneness.

If you have a seed or coffee grinder, making your own nut and seed flours is easy, though you may have to make several small batches to produce the amount needed for a recipe. (You can also use a food processor or blender, as described below.) If you’ll be making nut and seed flours often, we recommend investing in a good-quality seed grinder. They typically accommodate about ½ cup (120 ml) of seeds (about 1.75 oz / 50 g) or nuts (about 2 oz / 57 g). (For pointers on making coconut flour, see
Making Coconut Flour
; for garbanzo bean flour, see
Working with Garbanzo Bean Flour
, though it is now available already ground at most natural foods markets.) Pulse a few times and then grind continuously for about 5 seconds. Remove the lid and check on the consistency. If the flour is still unevenly ground, stir it with a spoon or a small spatula to break it up and get it off the grinder wall, then grind for a few more seconds. Here’s the most important point:
Don’t grind any longer than it takes to create a fine meal. If you do, you run the risk of making nut or seed butter, not flour.
Repeat the process until you have enough flour for the recipe.