The Mammoth Book of Travel in Dangerous Places (6 page)

On the road to Yedrova I received two roubles as charity from the master of a post-house, from whom also I had received refreshment gratis. Knowing, as I did, that assistance was at hand, I
declined the money, although my then distressed state might have warranted my open acceptance of it. I continued my route; and, upon my arrival at the next station, I found the money in my cap.
This is, indeed, real benevolence.

The canals are observable to the east, and present a beautiful appearance from the neat town of Yedrova. Reached Vishney-Volotchok late at night, a large scattered but flourishing town, formerly
an imperial village, but enfranchised by Catherine, with canals uniting the trades of the Caspian and Baltic seas. I had previously crossed the Valday hills, which are the only elevations between
the two capitals. They are in the government of Novgorod, as is also the Valday lake, nine miles in circumference. It has an island in its centre, on which stands a handsome monastery, which, with
its steeples glittering through the dark foliage of its intervening woods, forms a beautiful and interesting object. There is also a little town of the same name on its banks. The land here rises
into gentle eminences, with a good deal of cultivation.

Torjock was the next flourishing town which I reached, amid rain and thunder. This slight impediment, which broke up my travelling for the day, richly compensated the delay, by introducing me,
first, to an excellent supper, gratis; and, secondly, to a beautiful and kind-hearted young widow, sister of the unfortunate Captain Golovnin, who was so inhumanly exposed in a cage at Japan. The
master of the public house had civilly received me, and I was enjoying my own meditations, when Mrs. Golovnin entered my room, accosting me in German, French, Russian, and lastly in my native
tongue. After the manner of her sex, she got all my secrets out of me – but one – and in return sent me some tea, proffering, at the same time, the assistance of her purse. Had she
offered me her hand and heart, I certainly should have replied otherwise than I did, for I felt very affectionately and gratefully towards so kind and lovely a woman, and who although a widow, had
yet scarcely passed her teens. Upon getting up in the morning, I discovered that my knapsack had been searched, and my small stock of linen had been taken out and washed; but of course not the
smallest article was missing.

I refreshed myself at the fount, (which is always at hand in a Russian cottage, with a tea-kettle or other spouted vessel hanging over it,) breakfasted, and, making my
congé
to the
household gods in the near corner of the room, departed from Torjock. I had not proceeded far when I met a carriage, and immediately heard myself addressed in the English language –
“How do you do, Captain Cochrane?” On my acknowledging the name, the carriage stopped, and the owner, who proved to be a Mr. Hippius, and had for some time been on the look-out for me,
treated me very heartily to a biscuit and glass of wine. I then wished him a pleasant journey, and resumed mine, light as a lark at the unexpected pleasure of seeing English faces, and hearing my
own tongue. Those who have been similarly situated, can readily conceive how happy I was to have met with a countryman in such a manner.

My way lay over a country where the Tver is a wandering stream, and where numerous handsome seats and neat villages made their appearance. These, however, but too strongly reminded me of the
effects of absenteeship in Ireland, being evidently in a rapid state of decay. I have no hesitation, however, in saying, that the condition of the peasantry here is far superior to that class in
Ireland. In Russia provisions are plentiful, good, and cheap; while in Ireland they are scanty, poor, and dear, the best part being exported from the latter country, whilst the local impediments in
the other render them not worth that expense. Good comfortable log-houses are here found in every village; immense droves of cattle are scattered over an unlimited pasture, and whole forests of
fuel may be obtained for a trifle. With ordinary industry and economy the Russian peasant may become rich, especially those of the villages situated between the capitals, both of which might be
supplied by them with butter and cheese; whereas at present not a dairy exists, the peasantry contenting themselves with the culture of as much land, and the breeding of as many cattle, as may be
sufficient for their immediate wants. The women I have always found engaged in some employment; they make very good coarse woollen cloths and linens, as well as knit stockings and spin thread. The
whole work of the house is thrown upon them, while they also partake the labours of the field. I will not certainly recommend, for the adoption of any civilized countries, the treatment they
receive from their lordly masters; although I have no doubt the like was the custom of England half a century ago, and may be still in the hard-working countries. Having mentioned Ireland in
comparison with Russia, I may remark, that both countries may fairly vie with one another in the ancient savage virtue of hospitality.

Reached Tver the following day, and put up at the habitation of a long-bearded merchant; where, after enjoying a good supper and sound sleep, I employed myself in perambulating the city. It is
said to contain fifteen thousand inhabitants, being considerably larger, or at least more populous than Novgorod. Tver is situated at the junction of two small rivers, which empty themselves into
the noble Volga; the latter hence taking an easterly course towards Nishney Novgorod, and fertilizing, in its course to the Caspian, some of the finest provinces in the Russian empire.

The first circumstance which attracted my notice upon reaching Tver, was at the gate, where an impost of three large stones is levied upon every horse that passes. These are converted to the
paving of the city; nor will the tax appear either slight or useless in a country where stones are not very abundant.

Crossing the river over a fine bridge of boats, of 550 feet in length, I entered the principal part of the city. The public edifices on the banks of the Volga are handsome, and kept in good
order, though the archbishop’s palace resembles one of our workhouses. There is also a theatre, good barracks, and a beautiful building called the Prince’s Palace, rebuilt by Catherine.
The cathedral is of plain stone; there are, besides, thirty-four churches and three convents, (one of which is said to contain the ashes of a page, whose prince deprived him of his mistress at the
moment of their marriage, and afterwards, when too late, repenting of it, and wishing to expiate his crime, had this convent built,) – two of them are for men and one for women; three
hospitals are also established upon a liberal plan, and a bazar, with handsome piazzas, forms the city lounge. The public gardens and walks are certainly susceptible of improvement; but, upon the
whole, it has a clean and regular appearance, and bids fair, from its trade and situation, to become an important city. The government exports immense quantities of grain from hence to St.
Petersburg, and two hundred barges were now lying off the city loaded with that article, and with several millions of eggs.

Early on Monday, the 5th June, I quitted Tver for Moscow, passing sometimes along the banks of the Volga, at others over a rich grain country, amusing my mind alternately with the contemplation
of the promising crops, and the thousands of loaded barges destined to bear them. Reached Davidova (thirty-two miles) at two o’clock, where I stopped to refresh, passing on my way a great
number of pedestrian labourers, who, like the Gallegos of Spain, were travelling to the southward to assist the less populous districts in getting in the harvest. An amazing quantity of timber was
felled and felling on the road-side, merely for the purpose of keeping the road in repair; nearly the whole distance from Novgorod to Moscow being a wooden causeway. At eight in the evening I
continued my route, reaching Klinn at midnight, and Peski at four in the morning. The country had a pleasing appearance, immense herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, with well-peopled villages,
greeting the eye in every direction. I was supplied with plenty of black bread, milk, salt, and kuass, which I found very excellent fare. Passing through Tschornaya Graz, I entered Moscow at eight
in the morning, the last stage being distressingly fatiguing. Much rain fell, and I was not a little happy to reach the hospitable abode of Mr. Rowan in time to breakfast. The last thirty-two hours
I warrant as bearing witness to one of my greatest pedestrian trips – the distance is 168 versts, or about 96 miles: I have, however, done the same in Portugal.

ALARMS AMONGST
THE UZBEKS

Alexander Burnes

(1805–41)

Of all the “forbidden” cities (Timbuktu, Mecca, Lhasa, Riyadh and so on) none enjoyed a more fearsome reputation than Bukhara in Uzbekistan. The first British
Indian expedition, that of William Moorcroft in 1819–26, had never returned. Moorcroft’s disappearance, like that of Livingstone or Franklin, posed a challenge in itself and preyed on
the minds of his immediate successors. Heavily disguised and in an atmosphere of intense intrigue, Burnes and Dr. James Gerard crossed the Afghan Hindu Rush in 1832 and approached the scenes of
Moorcroft’s discomfiture. They would both return; and “Bukhara Burnes” would become the most fêted explorer of his day until hacked to death in Kabul at the beginning of the
First Afghan War.

T
he life which we now passed was far more agreeable than a detail of its circumstances would lead one to believe, with our dangers and fatigues. We
mounted at daylight, and generally travelled without intermission till two or three in the afternoon. Our day’s progress have no standard of measure; and miles, coses, and fursukhs, were
equally unknown, for they always reckon by the day’s journey. We often breakfasted on the saddle, on dry bread and cheese; slept always on the ground, and in the open air; and after the
day’s march, sat down cross-legged, till night and sleep overtook us. Our caravan was every thing that could be wished, for the Nazir and his amusing fellow-traveller were very obliging:
there were only eight persons in our party, and three of these were natives of the country: two others were instructed to pretend that they were quite distinct from us; though one of them noted the
few bearings of the compass, which I myself could not conveniently take without leading to discovery. We were quite happy in such scenes, and at the novelty of every thing; it was also delightful
to recognise some old friends among the weeds and shrubs. The hawthorn and sweet brier grew on the verge of the river; and the rank hemlock, that sprung up under their shade, now appeared beautiful
from the associations which it awakened. Our society, too, was amusing; and I took every favourable occasion of mingling with the travellers whom we met by the way, and at the halting-places.

Alexander Burnes, in costume. From
Travels into Bokhara
, London, 1989.

We continued our descent by Khoorrum and Sarbagh to Heibuk, which is but a march within the mountains; and gradually exchanged our elevated barren rocks for more hospitable lands. Our road led
us through tremendous defiles, which rose over us to a height of from two to three thousand feet, and overhung the pathway, while eagles and hawks wheeled in giddy circles over us: among them we
distinguished the black eagle, which is a noble bird. Near Heibuk, the defile becomes so narrow, that it is called the “Dura i Zindan,” or Valley of the Dungeon; and so high are the
rocks, that the sun is excluded from some parts of it at mid-day. There is a poisonous plant found here, which is fatal even to a mule or a horse: it grows something like a lily; and the flower,
which is about four inches long, hangs over and presents a long seed nodule. Both it and the flower resemble the richest crimson velvet. It is called “zuhr boota” by the natives, which
merely expresses its poisonous qualities. I brought a specimen of this plant to Calcutta, and am informed by Dr. Wallich, the intelligent and scientific superintendent of the Company’s
botanic garden, that it is of the Arum species. We now found vast flocks browsing on the aromatic pastures of the mountains, and passed extensive orchards of fruit trees. Herds of deer might be
seen bounding on the summits of the rocks; and in the valleys, the soil was every where turned up by wild hogs, which are here found in great numbers. The people also became more numerous as we
approached the plains of Tartary, and at Heibuk we had to encounter another Uzbek chief named Baba Beg, a petty tyrant of some notoriety.

As we approached his town, a traveller informed us that the chief was anticipating the arrival of the Firingees (Europeans), whose approach had been announced for some time past. This person is
a son of Khilich Ali Beg, who once ruled in Khooloom with great moderation; but the child has not imitated the example of his parent. He poisoned a brother at a feast, and seized upon his
father’s wealth before his life was extinct. He had greatly augmented the difficulties of Mr. Moorcroft’s party; and was known to be by no means favourable to Europeans. His subjects
had driven him from his native town of Khooloom for his tyranny, and he now only possessed the district of Heibuk. We saw his castle about four in the afternoon, and approached with reluctance; but
our arrangements were conducted with address, and here also we escaped in safety. On arrival, our small caravan alighted outside Heibuk, and we lay down on the ground as fatigued travellers,
covering ourselves with a coarse horse blanket till it was night. In the evening, the chief came in person to visit our Cabool friend the Nazir, to whom he offered every service; nor did he appear
to be at all aware of our presence. Baba Beg, on this occasion, made an offer to send the party, under an escort of his own, direct to Balkh, avoiding Khooloom – an arrangement which I heard
with pleasure, and, as it will soon appear, that might have saved us a world of anxiety. Our fellow-travellers, however, declined the proffered kindness, and vaunted so much of their influence at
Khooloom, that we had no dread in approaching a place where we were ultimately ensnared. While this Uzbek chief was visiting the Nazir, we were eating a mutton chop by the fireside within a few
yards and near enough to see him and hear his conversation. He was an ill-looking man, of debauched habits. He was under some obligation to our fellow-travellers; and we and our animals fared well
on the flesh and barley which he sent for their entertainment. Our character was never suspected; and so beautiful a starlight night was it, that I did not let this, the first opportunity, pass
without observing our latitude north of Hindoo Koosh. We set out in the morning before the sun had risen, and congratulated ourselves at having passed with such success a man who would have
certainly injured us.