The Mammoth Book of Travel in Dangerous Places (5 page)

In company with some carters I resumed my journey; and depositing my knapsack in one of their vehicles, entered into conversation as well as my scanty knowledge of German would allow me.

As we proceeded, there suddenly rose to the south-east a tremendous blaze, the cause of which it seemed difficult to conjecture. At first I imagined it might be, as I had often seen in England,
a blazing bonfire, with a group of mirthful rustics revelling round it. But the scene grew soon too terrific to allow of so simple a solution, the flame rising to a prodigious height, and the smoke
rolling into a beautiful dark arch on the clear sky. Immense masses of fire, and sparks at intervals, exploded and separated like a rocket.

We continued to gaze as we advanced, till on reaching the beautiful town of Tzarsko Selo, the source was indeed but too apparent; it was the Emperor’s favourite palace wrapped in an
inextinguishable flame. I had looked forward with hope to enjoy the survey of so celebrated an edifice, and had actually taken a letter of recommendation to Prince Theodore Galitzin, one of its
principal inhabitants, that I might with the more facility have my desire gratified. It was midnight; parties of men surrounded the wasting pile. All, however, was order and regularity; not a voice
was heard amid the thousands of people employed. The Emperor was present, evidently impressed with extreme regret, and all appeared powerfully to partake the sentiment. His Majesty, however,
continued to give frequent directions with perfect coolness.

Tzarsko Selo was the palace in which the Emperor and his brother Constantine had been brought up, and passed their earlier years; it was hither also that the Emperor was accustomed to retire,
when the cares of state permitted him, to lose among its beauties the anxieties of a throne and the toils of so great a government. It had been greatly embellished by his Majesty, and was
considered one of the most beautiful retreats in Europe. Years of time, and millions of money, I thought, must be expended, to make it what it was but yesterday morning.

Capt. Thomas Dundas Cochrane, R.N. From
Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey through Russia and Siberian Tartary, from the frontiers of China to the Frozen Sea and Kamchatka,
London, 1825.

Being excessively fatigued, and finding my individual exertions perfectly useless towards checking the progress of the flames, I retired to the gardens, where I passed a couple of restless hours
on a bed of moss, amid herbs and flowers, whose sweet perfumes were as yet unvanquished by the fire of smoke. Some demon seemed to hover over me, and my dreams presented the probable incidents of
my journey, in all the horrors which imagination could shadow forth. I arose, and returned to the scene of devastation, now evidently increasing, and appearing to defy the numerous engines pouring
upon it from all sides.

The dome of the church fell with a tremendous crash; and such was the immense mass of fire that fell with it, and so great the force of the rebound, that in its second descent, and assisted by
the wind, it set fire to two other parts of the palace, until then considered safe. At this critical moment his Imperial Majesty gave a strong proof of steady collectedness. While the fire was
raging from apartment to apartment, apparently mocking the resistance of man, the Emperor gave direction that the doors should be walled up with bricks. This was instantly done, and by such an
expedient alone could the amber, the most valuable chamber, have been wrested from the general destruction.

Portrait of Mrs Cochrane. From
Narrative of a Pedestrian Journey.

Having taken breakfast with Prince Theodore, and amused myself with the infantine prattle of his children, whether in the French, English, or German languages, for they seemed anxious to show
off the proficiency they had made, I proceeded towards Tosna, where I arrived at seven in the evening. Young firs and birch border the road, which is good; though the country presents but little of
interest, and seems to support but a slender population, considering its proximity to the capital.

I passed the night in the cottage of a farmer, resigning myself to the attacks and annoyance of such vermin as generally haunt impoverished dwellings, and was therefore proportionably pleased in
the morning to resume my journey. My route was towards Liubane, at about the ninth milestone from which I sat down, to smoke a cigar or pipe, as fancy might dictate; I was suddenly seized from
behind by two ruffians, whose visages were as much concealed as the oddness of their dress would permit. One of them, who held an iron bar in his hand, dragged me by the collar towards the forest,
while the other, with a bayoneted musket, pushed me on in such a manner as to make me move with more than ordinary celerity; a boy, auxiliary to these vagabonds, was stationed on the road-side to
keep a look-out.

We had got some sixty or seventy paces into the thickest part of the forest, when I was desired to undress, and having stripped off my trowsers and jacket, then my shirt, and, finally, my shoes
and stockings, they proceeded to tie me to a tree. From this ceremony, and from the manner of it, I fully concluded that they intended to try the effect of a musket upon me, by firing at me as they
would at a mark. I was, however, reserved for fresh scenes; the villains, with much
sang froid,
seated themselves at my feet, and rifled my knapsack and pockets, even cutting out the linings
of the clothes in search of bank bills or some other valuable articles. They then compelled me to take at least a pound of black bread, and a glass of rum, poured from a small flask which had been
suspended from my neck. Having appropriated my trowsers, shirts, stockings, and English shooting shoes, (the last of which I regretted most of all, as they were a present from Sir D. Bailey,) as
also my spectacles, watch, compass, thermometer, and small pocket-sextant, with one hundred and sixty roubles, (about seven pounds,) they at length released me from the tree, and, at the point of a
stiletto, made me swear that I would not inform against them – such, at least, I conjectured to be their meaning, though of their language I understood not a word.

Having received my promise, I was again treated to bread and rum, and once more fastened to the tree, in which condition they finally abandoned me. Not long after a boy who was passing heard my
cries, and set me at liberty. I did not doubt he was sent by my late companions upon so considerate an errand, and felt so far grateful; though it might require something more than common charity
to forgive their depriving me of my shirt and trowsers, and leaving me almost as naked as I came into the world.

To pursue my route, or return to Tzarsko Selo, would indeed be alike indecent and ridiculous, but there being no remedy, I made therefore “forward” the order of the day; and having
first, with the remnant of my apparel, rigged myself
à l’Ecossoise,
I resumed my route. I had still left me a blue jacket, a flannel waistcoat, and a spare one, which I tied
round my waist in such a manner that it reached down to the knees; my empty knapsack was restored to its old place, and I trotted on with even a merry heart.

Within a few miles I passed betwixt files of soldiers employed in making a new road, under the orders of General Woronoff, upon whom I waited to report the situation in which I was placed. The
servant, perhaps naturally enough, refused to let me pass without first acquainting his excellency with my business; I, however, steadily persisted in my determination; and at length, hearing the
noise and scuffle of turning me out, the general appeared, and listened to my mournful tale. The good heart of his excellency suggested the necessity of first administering me food; some clothes
were then offered to me, which I declined, considering my then dress as peculiarly, as well as nationally, becoming. The general then sent an officer with two men back to the village, to make
inquiries concerning the robbery. These were, however, fruitless, and I quitted, with many thanks to his excellency, in his own carriage, which was directed to take me to the first station. I soon
discovered that carriage-riding was too cold, and therefore preferred walking, barefooted as I was; and on the following morning I reached Tschduvo, a low and uncultivated waste, a hundred miles
from St. Petersburg. Thence to Podberezie, and thence to Novgorod. I had passed on the road many populous and neat villages, and numerous tents belonging to the military workmen, which gave
additional interest to a fertile and picturesque scenery. To the left was the river Volkhoff, on which Novgorod stands. The approach is grand, and the numerous spires and steeples of the churches
and convents, with their gilded and silvered casements glittering in the sun, recalled for a moment the memory of its ancient splendour. Crossing the bridge, I entered at two o’clock, and
immediately waited on the governor. He would have provided me with clothing on the instant; I was, however, hungry, and requested food. The governor smiled, but assented, I then accepted a shirt
and trowsers.

I was recommended by his excellency to stop at Novgorod a few days, under the promise that he would apprehend the robbers. I told him I felt no doubt they would be discovered; but before that
time I should have reached the heart of Siberia. Good quarters were, meantime, provided me in the habitation of a Russian merchant, to whom I had a letter of recommendation from St. Petersburg. He
had also the kind consideration to provide me a complete refit; and though this must have been at an expense of thirty or forty roubles, he positively refused my offer of reimbursement – an
offer I was enabled to make through the delicate kindness of his excellency the Governor Gerebzoff.

This ancient and celebrated city, which in former days was characterised by the proverb, “Who can resist the Gods and the great Novgorod?” is now only the capital of a province of
its own name. In its former glory it was the metropolis of a great republic, with four hundred thousand souls within its walls. The population is now reduced to a fortieth part. Its immense trade
had been gradually declining since the cruelties of Ivan Vassilich II., and was completely annihilated by the removal of the seat of government, by Peter the Great, from Moscow to the Gulf of
Finland. Many handsome edifices, now in ruins, are lamentable proofs of its former grandeur and present decay. Its archiepiscopal cathedral, small, but very ancient, is filled with superstitious
relics, and the ashes of several Russian Grand Dukes.

The steeples of Novgorod present a monument of considerable pride in the estimation of its inhabitants. Their distinction is in the cross at the top standing alone, unaccompanied by the
crescent; and this is an emblem, intimating that the Tartars, in all their invasions, never succeeded so far as to enter this city. A distinction which universally holds in Russia; the reconquered
cities bearing the crescent, but surmounted by the cross.

The following day, being that of Pentecost, I attended the service in the cathedral; and though I understood nothing of the language, yet was I forcibly struck with the primitive appearance of
the clergy in their long beards, longer tresses, and still longer robes. They certainly carried all the appearance of devout ministers of religion.

I had intended, from Novgorod, a visit to Mr. Glenny, at his establishment, eight miles distant, on the banks of the Veshora. Not finding him, however, I put up at a farm-house for the night,
having previously drunk kuass at a convent, paid a rouble for charity, and received a blessing upon entering Muscovy – not without a hope that I should find better treatment here than in
Esthonia. Next day, passing over a wild dreary waste to Zaitzova, a pleasant town, of fifteen hundred inhabitants, I put up at a civil house, if the admission of both sexes, and of all ranks and
dispositions, may deserve such a term; the variety was indeed ludicrous enough, but the conduct and conversation were not of such a nature as to merit description.

The women of Muscovy hitherto appear civil and cleanly dressed, though disfigured by the abominable custom of tying their breasts as low, flat, and tight as possible; they are not, however,
quite so ludicrous as some of the creoles and slaves in the West Indies, who often suckle their children behind their backs. The men appear equally civil, obliging, and hospitable, but almost
equally disguised by their swaddling coat of cloth or sheep-skin, coloured trowsers, and immense boots, sash round the body, a wide-rimmed hat, and long beard; a mode of dress which certainly gives
them something of a ferocious appearance.