The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (140 page)

TECHNIQUES

TOASTING NUTS

Toasting not only crisps nuts; it also releases their essential oils, bringing out their fullest flavor. The easiest way to toast just about any kind is to place the nuts on a single layer on a baking pan, and place in a 350°F oven until they are golden and aromatic, 8 to 12 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through baking to make sure the nuts toast evenly.

TOASTING HAZELNUTS

Toasting hazelnuts brings out their fullest flavor and helps loosen their bitter, papery skins, which are then removed. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the hazelnuts in a single layer in a baking pan; toast until the skins begin to split, about 10 minutes. Rub the warm nuts vigorously with a clean kitchen towel to remove the skins. Return to the pan; toast until fragrant and golden brown, 1 minute more. Let cool.

TOASTING SEEDS

Toasting whole seeds releases their flavor, adding a dimension to recipes that raw seeds do not. Although some recipes call for oil, we prefer to dry-toast the seeds, so no additional fat is added to the recipe and the flavors of the toasted seeds remain clean and fresh. To toast seeds, heat a heavy skillet, such as cast iron, over medium-low heat. Add the seeds, and shake the skillet gently to move the seeds around so they toast evenly and do not burn. Toast the seeds until they are aromatic and barely take on color. Allow them to cool slightly, and use as indicated in the recipe. Often, seeds are transferred to a spice grinder and pulsed into a fine powder.

PEELING FRESH CHESTNUTS

To peel fresh chestnuts, score the flat side on each with an X. Simmer the chestnuts in water until the scored end on each begins to open, or roast on a baking pan in a 350°F oven until the shells begin to curl. Using a paring knife, remove the shells and skins while the chestnuts are hot. Fresh chestnuts are available in the fall.

DEBEARDING MUSSELS

Before cooking mussels, place them under cold running water and, using a stiff scrub brush, remove any grit and sand. Using your thumb and forefinger, grasp the dark, weedy growth—the beard—protruding between the mussel shells, and tug it from the mussel. Because mussels die after the beard is removed, do this as close to cooking time as possible.

SHUCKING CLAMS AND OYSTERS

Wearing work gloves, scrub the shells with a firm vegetable brush to remove grit. Hold the clam or oyster flat-side up; wedge the knife between halves, twist, and pry apart. (Open stubborn ones from the back: Insert the knife at the joint; bang the knife against a surface. Hold the clam or oyster in place with your thumb until the muscle releases.)

WORKING WITH FRESH AND DRIED PEPPERS

The complex flavor of peppers is released by using different cooking methods. The more you work with them, the more flavor and character they will add to your food. Fresh peppers can be either sweet (like bell peppers) or hot (like jalapeños), and come in a great range of colors. The smaller the pepper, the hotter it is, so be careful. When chopping peppers, it is a good idea to wear plastic gloves, because the flesh and seeds can burn. The following preparations will make almost any dish more interesting.

ROASTING FRESH PEPPERS

Fresh large peppers, both hot and sweet, have a tough, transparent outer skin that should be removed unless they are served raw. The easiest way to loosen the skins is by charring them over a gas burner or under the broiler. Peppers may be roasted, peeled, seeded, and the ribs removed as described below 1 or 2 days in advance of their use in a recipe. Roasted peppers may be covered with olive oil and refrigerated for up to 1 week. Drain the olive oil from the peppers before using. If storing roasted peppers without oil, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap in an airtight container, and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

To roast fresh peppers: Place the peppers directly on the trivet of a gas-stove burner over high heat, or on a grill. Just as each section becomes puffy and black, turn the pepper with tongs to prevent overcooking. (If you don’t have a gas stove, place the peppers on a baking pan, and broil in the oven, turning as each side becomes charred.) Transfer the peppers to a large bowl, and cover immediately with plastic wrap. The juices, which can be added to the liquid component of the recipe for deeper flavor, will collect in the bowl. Let the peppers sweat until they are cool enough to handle, approximately 15 minutes. The steam helps loosen the skins. Transfer the peppers to a work surface. (If you have sensitive skin, wear thin plastic gloves when handling the peppers.) Peel off the blackened skin and discard. There may be bits of charred skin that are not easily peeled away; it is fine to leave them. Refrain from rinsing the peeled peppers—it dilutes the smoky flavor of the charred peppers. Halve the peppers, and open them flat on the work surface. Use the blade of a paring knife to remove the seeds and the hard seed cluster at the top. Remove the ribs. Slice each pepper according to recipe instructions.

TOASTING DRIED PEPPERS

Toasting dried chiles helps bring out their flavor and their heat. Place the peppers in a dry skillet over medium heat. Toast on both sides until slightly browned and aromatic. Remove from the heat, and allow to cool. Slit the chiles open, and discard the stems and seeds.

MAKING A PASTE FROM DRIED PEPPERS

Store dried peppers in a glass jar, out of the sun, or in a brown paper bag in the bottom of the refrigerator. Before using, rinse and pat each pepper dry.

1.
Toast the peppers (see above).

2.
Transfer the peppers to a heatproof bowl. Pour very hot water over the peppers to just cover. Let the peppers soak until they are softened and rehydrated, 20 to 30 minutes.

3.
Strain the soaking liquid, and reserve it for cooking. Transfer the peppers to a paper towel to dry.

4.
Wear thin plastic gloves to handle all hot peppers. Cut open each pepper, lengthwise. Remove the seeds, veins, and stem from inside each pepper with a paring knife.

5.
Scrape along the inside of each rehydrated pepper to remove the soft flesh. Place the flesh in a small dish, and mash it to form a soft paste for use in cooking. Use the paste right away, or cover it with plastic wrap, and refrigerate up to 2 days.

ROASTING GARLIC

Roasting garlic turns its pungent flesh into a mildly sweet, buttery treat. Garlic heads differ greatly in size, but a medium-size one will yield about 2 tablespoons of puree.

To make roasted garlic, preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut about ½ inch from the top of garlic head, just enough to expose the cloves. Place the head of garlic in a small ovenproof baking dish, and drizzle it lightly with ½ teaspoon olive oil; cover with foil. Roast until soft and golden brown and the tip of a knife easily pierces the flesh, 30 to 45 minutes.

Using either your hands or the dull edge of a large knife, squeeze the cloves out of their skins and into a small bowl. Discard the papery skins. Using a fork, mash the cloves together until smooth. Use the roasted garlic immediately, or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

PUREEING GARLIC

Separate the garlic cloves from 1 head of garlic, and peel them. Place the cloves in the bowl of a food processor. Process until chopped to the desired consistency, chunky or smooth. Transfer the pureed garlic to an airtight glass or plastic jar, and cover with olive oil. This mixture will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for up to 1 week.

CARAMELIZING ONIONS

To make 1 cup caramelized onions, heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Slice 2 medium onions (about 1 ½ pounds) into
¹
/
₈
-inch rounds, add to the pan, and cook until they begin to soften, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon sugar, ½ teaspoon salt, and
¹
/
₈
teaspoon pepper, raise the heat slightly, and cook until golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.

CLEANING LEEKS

A member of the allium family, the leek is the restrained, shy relative of onions and garlic—far less pungent, but no less flavorful. Available year round in most parts of the country, leeks vary enormously in size; the smaller the leek, the more tender the stalk. Before using, trim the tiny roots that hang off the root end, and trim the thick leaf end. Leeks grow into the soil, so they retain lots of dirt in their layers and leaves. Always wash them thoroughly before proceeding with a recipe. The best way to ensure that every bit of dirt is washed from leeks is to cut them first into the size that is called for in the recipe. Generally they are halved lengthwise first, then sliced crosswise into ¼-inch-thick pieces. Transfer the leek pieces to a large bowl of cold water, stir, and let stand for 5 minutes to let dirt and sand settle to the bottom. Lift the leeks out of the water with a slotted spoon, and drain on paper towels.

FREEZING FRESH HERBS

Wash and pat dry fresh parsley or basil; remove the stems. Chop fine in the bowl of a food processor; slowly add olive oil until the mixture becomes a paste. Spoon the herb paste into the wells of a clean ice-cube tray, and freeze. Transfer the frozen cubes to resealable plastic freezer bags, and use in tomato sauce, soups, or stews.

MAKING YOGURT CHEESE

Plain yogurt can undergo a delicious transformation overnight: It becomes yogurt cheese, which has the texture of soft cheese with yogurt’s pleasant tang. To make it, wrap plain yogurt (low-fat is better than nonfat) in a double layer of cheesecloth, and suspend it over a bowl or sink, or simply place the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined sieve or colander set over a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours to let the whey drain out. The yogurt cheese will keep for 3 to 4 days, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator. Serve it on toast, mixed with herbs as a dip, or spooned on a baked potato.

MAKING BREAD CRUMBS

Bread crumbs have two very appealing characteristics: They are simple to make, and they are an economical use of odds and ends of unsweetened breads. Keep fresh unused bread in a resealable plastic storage bag until you have a few handfuls’ worth. Bread crumbs can be either fresh or dried. For fresh, simply remove the crusts from the bread, place the bread in the bowl of a food processor, and process until fine. For dried bread crumbs, toast the bread in a 250°F oven until fully dried out, 12 to 15 minutes. Let the bread cool, and process until fine. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator, up to 1 week, or in the freezer, up to 6 months. Never use stale bread to make bread crumbs: They will taste that way—stale. Bread crumbs can also be made from darker breads. These somewhat earthier crumbs add interesting flavor to gratins and breaded meats.

RECONSTITUTING DRIED MUSHROOMS

To rehydrate dried mushrooms, place them in a heatproof bowl, and cover with 1 inch of boiling water. Let stand for 20 minutes. The mushrooms should be soft and tender. Strain. Don’t discard the soaking liquid; it is intensely flavorful and can be added to soups and sauces.

TOASTING SHREDDED COCONUT

Spread coconut in a single layer in a baking pan; toast in a 350°F oven until lightly golden and aromatic, 6 to 8 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through baking to make sure the coconut toasts evenly.

PEELING AND PITTING MANGOES

The best way to determine whether a fresh mango is ripe is to sniff the stem end; it should be fragrant and sweet-smelling. Choose mangoes with taut skins that show some yellow and red and give slightly when pressed. Using a sharp paring knife, cut a thin slice off the bottom of the mango to create a flat surface. Stand the mango on a cutting board, stem side up. Beginning at the stem, run the knife to the bottom of the mango, following the contour of the fruit and trimming away the skin. Shaped like a flattened oval, the mango has two soft cheeks that run from the top to the bottom of the fruit. To trim the fleshy cheeks away, place the knife at the top of the mango, slightly off center. Slice off one of the rounded cheeks in a clean, single cut, running the knife along the pit as you cut (some of the flesh will cling to the pit). Repeat on the other side.

PITTING AND PEELING AVOCADOS

Select avocados that are tender and slightly soft when pressed gently. If only firm avocados are available, buy them 3 days ahead so they have time to ripen. Cutting to the pit with an 8-inch chef’s knife, slice all the way around the middle of the avocado. Twist the top half off. With a short, sharp, but careful chopping motion, embed the knife in the pit; remove the pit from the flesh. Scoop out the flesh with a large serving spoon.

food sources

ALMOND FLOUR
A.L. Bazzini Company, Dean & DeLuca

AMARETTI COOKIES
Dean & DeLuca, Salumeria Italiana

ANCHO CHILE PEPPERS, DRIED
Kitchen/Market, Penzeys Spices

BACON, CORNCOB SMOKED
North-country Smokehouse

BANH PHO RICE NOODLES
Temple of Thai

BLACK CURRANT PURÉE
The Perfect Purée of Napa Valley

BONITO FLAKES
Chefshop.com

BRESAOLA
Zingerman’s Delicatessen

CARDAMOM PODS, GREEN
Penzeys Spices

CARNAROLI RICE
Salumeria Italiana

CAVIAR
Russ & Daughters, Browne Trading Company

CHAMOMILE FLOWERS, DRIED
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

CHILE PASTE
Kitchen/Market

CHINESE FIVE-SPICE POWDER
Penzeys Spices

CHIPOTLE CHILE PEPPERS, DRIED
Kitchen/Market, Penzeys Spices

CITRIC ACID
New York Cake & Baking Distributor

COCONUT, UNSWEETENED
Uptown Whole Foods, Kitchen/Market

CORNICHONS
Zingerman’s Delicatessen

CRAB BOIL SEASONING
CMC, Obrycki’s Crab House and Seafood Restaurant

CRYSTAL SUGAR
King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalog

CURRY LEAVES, DRIED AND FRESH
Adriana’s Caravan

DUMPLING WRAPPERS (SKINS)
Katagiri & Co., Uwajimaya

ECHINACEA
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

EDIBLE WAFER PAPER
New York Cake & Baking Distributor

FENUGREEK
Penzeys Spices

FOOD COLORING (GEL AND PASTE)
New York Cake & Baking Distributor

FREGOLA PASTA (SARDINIAN PASTA)
Dean & DeLuca

GALANGAL
Penzeys Spices

GOLDENSEAL, DRIED
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

GOOSE FAT
Dean & DeLuca

GUAJILLO CHILES
Kitchen/Market

HAM, COUNTRY CURED
Basse’s Choice

HARISSA
Kitchen/Market

HERBAL TEAS, EASTERN AND FRENCH
Takashimaya

ISRAELI COUSCOUS
Kalustyan’s

JUNIPER BERRIES
Adriana’s Caravan

KEY LIMES (FRESH)
The Showcase of Citrus

KEY LIME JUICE
The Showcase of Citrus

KOMBU SEAWEED
Asian Food Grocer

LEMONS, PRESERVED (ALSO CALLED MOROCCAN PRESERVED LEMONS)
Dean & DeLuca

LICORICE ROOT, DRIED
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

MACE (BLADES)
CMC Company

MANGOS, DRIED
A.L. Bazzini Company

MASA HARINA, DRIED
Kitchen/Market

MASCARPONE CHEESE
Dean & DeLuca

MERINGUE POWDER
New York Cake & Baking Distributor

MUSHROOMS, WILD; DRIED AND FRESH
Urbani Truffles USA

MUSTARD SEEDS, BROWN AND BLACK
Dean & DeLuca, Adriana’s Caravan, Penzeys Spices

ORANGE-BLOSSOM WATER
Kalustyan’s

PAPRIKA, HOT
Adriana’s Caravan, Penzeys Spices

PARMA HAM, COOKED
Dean & DeLuca

PEPPERMINT LEAVES, DRIED
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

PEPPERS, DRIED CHILE (CASCABEL, PEQUIN, MORA)
Kitchen/Market

PICKLING LIME
Rafal Spice Company

PINK PEPPERCORNS
Penzeys Spices

POMEGRANATE SEEDS, DRIED
Adriana’s Caravan

POMEGRANATE SYRUP
Sultan’s Delight

POPCORN RICE
Uptown Whole Foods

RED CURRY
Adriana’s Caravan

RICE NOODLES, DRIED AND FLAT
Temple of Thai

RUSTICHELLA D’ABRUZZO PASTA
Dean & DeLuca

RYE FLOUR
King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalog

SARDINIAN PASTA (FREGOLA PASTA)
Dean & DeLuca

SAUSAGES
Schaller and Weber, D’Artagnan

SEA SALT
Zingerman’s Delicatessen

SEASONED RICE VINEGAR
Kalustyan’s

SEMOLINA
King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalog

SHRIMP, DRIED
ImportFood.com

SLIPPERY ELM, DRIED
Frontier Natural Products Co-op

SOMEN NOODLES
Asian Food Grocer

SOPRESSATA
Zingerman’s Delicatessen

STONE-GROUND GRITS
Hoppin’ John’s

SUGAR, AMBER
King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalog

SUGAR, MAPLE
Dean & DeLuca

SUGAR, NONMELTING
King Arthur Flour Baker’s Catalog

SUGAR, SANDING (WHITE AND COLORED)
New York Cake & Baking Distributor

SUSHI RICE
Uwajimaya

SZECHUAN PEPPERCORNS, WHOLE
CMC Company

TORRONE
igourmet.com

TRUFFLE OIL, WHITE AND BLACK
Dean & DeLuca

VENISON
D’Artagnan

ZAHTAR
Sultan’s Delight, Penzeys Spices