The Minimalist Cooks Dinner (5 page)
Read The Minimalist Cooks Dinner Online
Authors: Mark Bittman
or without Meat
The cooking liquid of chickpeas, unlike that of most other beans, is so good-tasting that it makes the basis of a great soup, seasoned with garlic, herbs, and some aromatic vegetables, for example. Purée some of the cooked chickpeas, then stir them back into the soup, and it becomes deceptively, even sublimely, creamy.
TIME:
1½ to 2 hours
MAKES:
4 servings
1½ cups dried chickpeas
5 garlic cloves, peeled and cut into slices
3 sprigs rosemary or thyme
1 medium to large carrot, cut into small dice
1 celery stalk, peeled and cut into small dice
1 medium onion, cut into small dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon minced garlic
½ pound Italian or garlic sausage, grilled or broiled and cut into thin slices, optional
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
If you have the time, soak the chickpeas for several hours or overnight in water to cover (if not, don’t worry). Combine the chickpeas, sliced garlic, and herbs in a large saucepan with fresh water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer, partially covered, for at least 1 hour, or until fairly tender. Add additional water if necessary, and skim any foam that rises to the top of the pot.
Scoop out the herbs and add the carrot, celery, onion, salt, and pepper to the pot. Continue to cook until the chickpeas and vegetables are soft, at least another 20 minutes. Remove about half the chickpeas and vegetables and carefully purée in a blender with enough of the water to allow the machine to do its work. Return the purée to the soup and stir; reheat with the minced garlic, adding additional water if the mixture is too thick.
Stir in the sausage and cook a few minutes longer. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve, drizzled with the oil.
| WINE | Chianti, a red from the South of France, or any other light but assertive red |
| SERVE WITH | 60-Minute Bread , good store-bought bread, or Olive Oil Croutons ; Roasted Peppers |
THIS RECIPE
will work with canned chickpeas, but some adjustments are necessary; see With Minimal Effort.
LIKE ANY BEAN
, chickpeas can be cooked without soaking, though they will cook somewhat more quickly if they are soaked for 6 to 12 hours beforehand. Soaked or not, the cooking time for beans is somewhat unpredictable, depending largely on how much moisture they have lost during storage (older beans, being drier, require longer cooking times). Generally speaking, soaked chickpeas will take about 1½ hours to become tender; unsoaked ones will take about 30 minutes longer.
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To use canned chickpeas, rinse 4 cups chickpeas and combine with 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock and the vegetables as in step 2 above. Cook until the vegetables are tender, then proceed as above.
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Omit the sausage, or substitute leftover bits of cooked chicken, beef, pork, or lamb. Or cook something especially for the soup, like shrimp or more vegetables.
with Chicken
TIME:
40 minutes
MAKES:
4 servings
There’s a more-or-less standard Indian dish of cauliflower and potatoes that to me, despite its lovable flavors, is simply too starchy. Substitute boneless chicken for the potatoes, however, and the preparation turns into a one-dish meal, increasing both its appeal and its usefulness. The chewiness of the chicken—as opposed to the mealiness of the potatoes—gives the dish an added dimension.
2 tablespoons peanut, grape-seed, or other oil
½ cup minced onion
1 head cauliflower (about 2 pounds)
1 tablespoon cumin seeds, optional
2 teaspoons curry powder, or to taste
5 or 6 canned plum tomatoes, with their juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, cut into ½-inch cubes
Juice of 1 lemon
Minced fresh parsley or cilantro, optional
Pour the oil into a 12-inch skillet and turn the heat to high; add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, about 5 minutes. While the onion is cooking, trim the cauliflower and cut the florets into Flinch-thick pieces.
When the onion has browned a little, add the cumin seeds and curry and cook for about 30 seconds. Add the cauliflower and stir, still over high heat, for another minute. Cut up the tomatoes and add them, along with their juice, ¼ cup water, and a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Cover and turn the heat to medium-low.
Cook for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice, or until the cauliflower is beginning to become tender. Add the chicken, stir, cover, and cook for another 6 to 8 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. (If the sauce threatens to dry out at any point, add a little more water.) Stir in the lemon juice, taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with parsley if you like, and serve.
| WINE | Beer or Zinf andel or another light, assertive red |
| SERVE WITH | Any flatbread or Easy Rice |
THE CUMIN
will gain flavor if you toast it first: Put it in a small, dry skillet over medium heat and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until it is fragrant.
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Substitute potatoes, peeled and cut into ½cubes, for the chicken; make sure they’re cooked through before serving.
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To the cooking onion, add 1 tablespoon or even more of minced ginger; 1 to 2 teaspoons of minced garlic; some fresh or dried chiles, or 1 to 2 pinches cayenne.
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Whether you’re using chicken or potatoes, 2 cups of cubed eggplant cooked with the cauliflower is a great addition.
Soy Sauce
TIME:
20 to 30 minutes
MAKES:
4 servings
Over the years, almost despite myself, I have become increasingly fond of tofu, not for its flavor—which is so subtle as to be almost nonexistent, especially in a full-flavored dish like this one—but for its silken, creamy texture. (Its reported health benefits don’t hurt, but who knows whether these will be borne out in the long run?) But given that tofu does not add much body to a dish, you need a substantial sauce, like one with canned coconut milk as its base. Like heavy cream, coconut milk will thicken a sauce, making it luxurious in almost no time.
2 tablespoons peanut, grape-seed, or other oil
1 large onion, minced
1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste
1 cup roughly chopped walnuts or unsalted cashews
One 12- to 14-ounce can (1½ to 2 cups) unsweetened coconut milk or 2 cups homemade coconut milk
1 block tofu (about 1 pound), cut into ¾-inch cubes
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
Salt
Cayenne
Put the oil in a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet, turn the heat to medium-high, and heat for 1 minute. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the edges of onion pieces are well-browned, about 10 minutes (for best flavor, the onions must brown but not burn). Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds or so; add the nuts and cook, stirring occasionally for about 1 minute.
Add the coconut milk. Stir, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to medium. Add the tofu, stir, and let the tofu heat through for about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy then taste and adjust the seasoning with soy salt, and/or cayenne as necessary. Serve.
| WINE | Not-too-dry Riesling or Gewürztraminer |
| SERVE WITH | Easy Rice and, if you like, Steamed Broccoli (or Other Vegetable) |
THE ONIONS
must be browned carefully and thoroughly: Keep the heat high enough so that this happens in timely fashion—it should take about 10 minutes, and in no case more than 15—but not so high that the onions burn. I call this level of heat “medium-high,” but since all stoves are different it will require some judgment. The oil should be bubbling but not smoking, and you must stir the onions every minute or so. After 3 or 4 minutes they should begin to brown, and they are done when their edges are quite dark and their interiors somewhat darkened.
TO MAKE
your own coconut milk, combine 2 cups grated unsweetened coconut and 2 cups boiling water in a blender; let cool a bit, then blend carefully, taking care that the hot liquid does not splatter. Strain and discard solids.
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For the tofu, substitute ½-inch cubes of chicken, shrimp, or pork; cook in the sauce until done, about 5 minutes.
Chicken Noodle Soup,
Chinese Style
TIME:
30 minutes
MAKES:
4 servings
Fresh Asian-style noodles are turning up everywhere these days—even supermarkets—and they’re ideal for soups, because you can cook them right in the broth. It only takes a few minutes and, unlike dried noodles, they won’t make the broth too starchy. Here, then, is a noodle-based chicken soup that you can take in many different directions.
6 cups chicken stock
10 ginger slices
2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1½ cups chopped cooked chicken
1 cup broccoli florets, cut into 1-inch or smaller pieces
1 pound fresh thin egg noodles (may be labeled “soup noodles” or “wonton noodle” or simply “noodles”)
2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
½ cup minced scallions
Heat the stock with the ginger and crushed garlic while you prepare the other ingredients. Keep it warm and simmering until you are ready to use it.
Pour the peanut oil into a broad, deep skillet or saucepan and turn the heat to medium-high. Add the minced garlic and stir, then add the chicken. Turn the heat to high and cook, stirring only occasionally, until the chicken begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.
Strain and add the stock; adjust the heat so that it boils gently. Add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally until they are separate and tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and sesame oil, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the soup among four bowls; add a little more stock to each if you want the mixture soupier. Garnish with the scallions and serve.
