The Story of Sushi (45 page)

Yoshino, Masuo [
].
Sushi, Sushi, Sushi: Sushi no Jiten
[
The Encyclopedia of Sushi]. Tokyo: Asahiya Shuppan [
], 1990.

Yuyama, Reiko [
].
Onna Hitori Zushi
[
One Woman Sushi]. Tokyo: Yosensha [
], 2004.

Zhang, Y., et al. “Coding of Sweet, Bitter, and Umami Tastes: Different Receptor Cells Sharing Similar Signaling Pathways.”
Cell
112, no. 3 (7 February 2003): 293–301.

Zhao, G. Q., et al. “The Receptors for Mammalian Sweet and Umami Taste.”
Cell
115, no. 3 (31 October 2003): 255–266.

Note: Entries in this index, carried over verbatim from the print edition of this title, are unlikely to correspond to the pagination of any given e-book reader. However, entries in this index, and other terms, may be easily located by using the search feature of your e-book reader.

A

abalone, 30

acetic acid, 15, 17, 29, 31, 145

Advanced Fresh Concepts, 133

akami
(red meat tuna), 246, 248, 255, 256

albacore, 148, 151–52

algae, 144, 182

nori and, 83–84

smell of sushi and, 87

toxic (red tides), 242

ama-ebi
(sweet shrimp), 136–37

amino acids, 23, 31, 39

enzymes in mold and, 15, 22

in fish and seafood, 117–18, 138, 144, 145, 195, 242, 250

amylase, 39

anago
(saltwater eels), 225, 228–31

anisakis, 143–44, 179, 198

Aoki, Rocky, 295

appetizers,
kaiseki
-style, 76, 77, 79–81

Arai, Taro, 297, 298, 299, 300

Aristotle, 226

aromas, 87, 117, 118

fishy, 144–45

ascending fish, 198

atama
(fish heads), 190, 192, 193

ATP (adenosine triphosphate), 21–22, 117

avocados, 82, 88

B

bacteria, 29, 116, 226

fishy aromas and, 145

inhibiting growth of, 31, 40, 78, 79, 144, 146, 150, 151, 161, 248, 264

in miso production, 14, 16

Baggett, Marisa, 57

bamboo leaves,
nigiri
separated by, 78–79

bamboo rolling mats, 85, 86

beef:

aging, 250

Kobe-style, 122

raw, 149–50

Belushi, John, 46

beriberi, 35

bloodline, 115, 190, 254, 256

blowfish, 86

bluefin tuna, 28, 245, 246–53, 320.

See also
tuna

bone pulling, 155, 184

bonito, 28, 187

bonito flakes, 21–22, 23

botan-ebi
(sweet shrimp), 136–37

boxes of
nigiri
, for takeout or gifts, 65, 78–79

box sushi (
hako-zushi
), 156

bromophenols, 87, 144

brown rice, 34, 35

Buddhism, 16, 23, 36

buri
, 197, 198.
See also
yellowtail

C

California Rice Center, 27, 31, 33

California Rice Commission, 294

California rolls, 85–86, 95

invention of, 81–82

California Sushi Academy (CSA), 50–51, 315

classes at.
See
Lekic, Zoran;
specific topics

first day of session at, 3–9

first women at, 55–58

founding of, 4, 55

graduation formalities at, 302–3

California Sushi Academy (CSA),

graduation requirements at, 6–7

lunch counter worked by students at, 123–24, 131, 139–41, 175–77, 231, 287–88

student body at, 4–6

tests at, 124, 125–27, 164, 166–68, 171, 240, 259–63, 292, 301, 302

carp, 30

Carver, Roy, 162–63

Catalina Offshore Products, 281

cephalopods, 232–38, 242

Chicago, sushi restaurants in, 46, 133, 134

China, 83, 241

original form of sushi in, 29–30

sashimi in, 149

chopsticks, 26, 77, 152, 272, 321, 322

chutoro
(medium fatty tuna), 246, 248, 256

clams, 28, 67, 319

giant or horse (
mirugai
), 240–44

collagen, 116–17, 225, 233

column peel (
katsura-muki
), 8, 150–51, 259–60

comb style, 93

conveyor-belt sushi (
kaiten-zushi
), 54, 57, 58, 63, 79

cooking, 146

collagen and, 116–17

eel, 229–31

flavor development and, 117–18

grilling mackerel, 113, 116, 118–19

kaiseki
-style appetizers, 75–76, 77, 79–81

searing, 148

simmering in broth, 98

tamago yaki
(sweet egg omelet), 124–25

crunchy rolls, 88

crustaceans.
See also
shrimp

flavor development in, 138

as prey for other sea creatures, 143, 182, 187, 236

cucumber rolls (
kappa-maki
), 86–87, 95, 304

cucumbers, cutting, 8, 17

customers.
See also
ordering

educating about sushi, 99–101, 134–35, 193

at sushi bars, etiquette guide for, 317–22

sushi chefs’ interactions with, 12, 27, 48–50, 54, 70, 71, 102–3, 123, 124, 139, 169–71, 312, 313, 322

cytochromes, 194

D

dashi, 21, 22–23, 84, 280

Dean, Howard, 132

Do, Memphis, Tenn., 57

Drew-Baker, Kathleen, 83

E

ebi
or
kuruma-ebi
(cooked shrimp), 136–39

Edo, 161.
See also
Tokyo

sushi in, 64–66, 77–78

Edomae-sushi
, 65–67

eels, 66, 188, 202, 225–31

cooking, 229–31

freshwater (
unagi
), 225, 227–28

mating of, 226, 227

migrations of, 226–27, 228

saltwater (
anago
), 225, 228–31

eel sauce, 230–31

egg omelet, sweet (
tamago yaki
), 124–25

Eigiku, Los Angeles, 46

engawa
(adductor muscle of flatfish), 209, 210

enzymes:

in fish, 28, 29, 145–46, 194, 249–50

in Miora, 39

in mold, 14–15, 22

Europe, sushi restaurants in, 57–58, 63

F

fermented fish paste, 28–29

fillet techniques, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11, 252

fingers, eating sushi with, 26, 65, 321

fish:

circulatory systems of, 114–15, 246

decline in numbers of, 237, 251

evolution of, 114, 116, 180, 201–2, 207–8, 233

filleting, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11, 252

flavor elements in, 117–18

freezing, 179–80, 248–49

gills of, 190, 191, 246, 247

gutting and cleaning, 113–15, 119, 142, 190

Japanese names for parts of, 142

migrations of, 145, 180–81, 182, 194, 226–27, 228

muscles of, 145–46, 193–94, 204, 209, 210, 233, 247, 249–50

neta
as term for, 89–90

preserving, 28–30, 149

purchasing, 107–12

scales of, 154–55, 189, 191, 200–202, 210, 226

three basic categories of, 154

fishy aromas, 144–45

five-piece breakdown (
go-mai oroshi
), 147, 210, 252

flatfish (
hirame
and
karei
), 206–12

adductor muscle of (
engawa
), 209, 210

evolution of, 207–8

filleting, 210–12

Japanese love of, 208–9

flavors, fundamental, 23.
See also umami

Fleischman, Mark, 56–57

flounder, 154, 183, 194, 197, 206.
See also
flatfish

starry, 207, 208

food poisoning, 153, 161

franchise operations, 133

freezing fish, 179–80, 248–49

“fresh kill” sushi, 250

Freud, Sigmund, 226

funa-zushi
(old style of sushi with carp), 30

futo-maki
(big rolls), 27, 95, 159

G

garum
, 29

geishas, 154

Genghis Khan, 30

geoducks (
mirugai
), 240–44

geta
(rectangular stand), 320

Gilbert, Nikki, 57

gills, 190, 191, 246, 247

ginger, pickled, 26, 277, 320, 321

gizzard shad (
kohada
), 66, 154

glass eels, 226, 227

glutamate, 15, 16, 21, 22–23, 84, 117, 118, 242, 250

glycine, 117, 118, 138, 195

glycinin, 15

glycogen, 249–50

go-mai oroshi
(five-piece breakdown), 147, 210, 252

gourd shavings, 67

Great Kanto Earthquake (1923), 66

Greece, ancient, 82, 225

green tea, 53

Griffith, Tracy, 55–57

grilling, 113, 116, 118–19

grocery stores, sushi in, 133, 134

gunkan
(“battleship” sushi), 281

gutting fish, 113–15, 119, 142, 190

H

hako-zushi
(box sushi), 156

halfbeak, 154

halibut.
See
flatfish

hamachi
, 198.
See also
yellowtail

Hama Hermosa, Hermosa Beach, 4, 6, 22, 58, 96, 102–7, 120–22, 169–71, 214–15, 221, 264–74, 294

daily staff meeting at, 42–43

decline and closing of, 43, 50, 101, 121, 239, 281, 294

last night at, 288–91

Monday student lunch counter at, 123–24, 131, 139–41, 175–77, 231, 287–88

rice preparation at, 33, 36–40, 41–42

Hama Venice, Venice Beach, 4, 43, 48–50, 99, 121

Hanaya, Yohei, 65, 77–78

handedness, sashimi arrangements and, 152

hand rolls (
te-maki
), 24

haya-zushi
(“quick sushi”), 31, 64–65

heads of fish (
atama
), 190, 192, 193

health concerns, 26–27, 47

herring, 155

hikari mono
(“shiny things”), 154–55

hirame
.
See
flatfish

horse mackerel, 154

hoso-maki
(thin rolls), 86–87, 95

hydrolyzed vegetable protein, 23, 24

I

ika
(squid), 233, 235–38, 290

Ikeda, Kikunae, 22–23

ikura
(salmon eggs), 278–79, 281

Imaizumi, Teruo, 295

IMP (inosine monophosphate), 22, 23, 84, 117–18, 228, 280

Indica rices, 37

inside-out rolls (
ura-maki
), 81–82, 85–86, 88, 95, 97, 158, 159

International Marine Products, Los

Angeles, 109–11

J

jabara
(“snake’s stomach;” cut of tuna), 247

Jackson, Phil, 4

Japanese culture, preservation of, 100, 134–35, 295

Japanese immigrants, in Los Angeles, 44–46

Japanese Restaurant News
, 134

Japanese tourists, 88

Japonica rices, 37, 294

Johnson, Tim, 295

K

kaiseki
(courtly Japanese cuisine), 76, 77, 79–81

kaiten-zushi
(conveyor-belt sushi), 54, 57, 58, 63, 79

Kamehachi, Chicago, 46

Kanai, Noritoshi, 45, 47, 295

kanpachi
, 200.
See also
yellowtail

Kapika, 34

kappa-maki
(cucumber rolls), 86–87, 95, 304

karei
.
See
flatfish

katsura-muki
(column peel), 8, 150–51, 259–60

Kawafuku, Los Angeles, 45, 46

kelp, 21, 23, 38, 204, 280

“kelp flavor,” 39

Kenefick, Jack and Arbie, 312–14

knives, 7–9, 36, 166

cutting sushi rolls with, 85–86

sharpening, 7, 8–9, 94, 171, 176, 177, 184, 196, 197, 205, 206

kohada
(gizzard shad), 66, 154

konbu
(kelp), 21, 23

Korea, 83, 149

kori-kori
(texture), 208–9

kosher dietary rules, 202, 226

Koshihikari, 38

krill, 143, 182, 183, 189

Kruse, Fie, 42, 57–58, 102, 104, 120–22, 169–70, 214, 315

kuruma-ebi
(cooked shrimp), 136–39

Kyoto, 146, 198

sushi in, 40, 41, 64, 142

L

lactic acid, 15, 29, 31, 264

Lake Biwa, 30

Lancet
, 53

laver, 83–84, 87

Lekic, Zoran, 6–9, 13, 21, 36, 40, 41–42, 59, 75–77, 123, 213, 259, 260, 264, 292, 293, 302, 309, 315

catered events and, 24, 68, 69, 71, 75

cooking techniques and, 75–76, 77, 79–80, 81, 98, 113, 116, 118–19, 124–25

cucumber and radish cutting and, 8, 17, 150–51

departure of, 175, 186, 218, 231, 240, 268, 277, 278, 288

eels and, 228–31

fillet techniques and, 146–48, 203–4, 210–11

fish purchasing and, 107–12

flatfish and, 206–12

gutting, cleaning, and grilling mackerel and, 113–16, 118–19

knife care and, 7–9, 166, 205, 206

mackerel sushi and sashimi and, 142, 144, 153–57

mirugai
(giant clams or geoducks) and, 240–44

nigiri
making and, 24, 89–91, 195

octopus and, 232–35

salmon sushi and sashimi and, 178, 181–85

sashimi presentation and, 151–52

sea bream and, 186–96

shrimp preparation and, 136–39

special rolls and, 157, 158–59, 163