A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (16 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
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MOROCCAN-SPICED
EGGPLANT SOUP
SERVES 6 TO 8
EGGPLANT SOUP
SERVES 6 TO 8
This soup feels decadent because of how silky and luxuriously creamy it is. You’d think it’d been bombed with a ton of oil or cream, but the richness is all in the texture of the eggplant and the addition of almond milk and a little Greek yogurt. I typically use the Italian or globe varieties when I roast, fry, or bread eggplant. Here, I go for the smaller Japanese eggplants, which have fewer, smaller seeds and a sweeter, more delicate flavor. Serving the soup with a spoonful of vinegar-soaked raisins provides some acidity and a pop of texture.
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¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 small yellow onions, chopped
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
2½ teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground ginger
1 teaspoon turmeric
5 large Japanese eggplants, peeled and chopped (about 8 cups)
Fine sea salt
2 cups unsweetened almond milk
½ cup golden raisins
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
¼ cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt plus 2 tablespoons, for serving
½ cup sliced almonds, toasted
1
In a large pot, combine the olive oil and onions, then turn the heat to medium-high. When the onions start to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the cinnamon, cumin, ginger, and turmeric and stir to coat the onions with the spices. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 15 minutes.
In a large pot, combine the olive oil and onions, then turn the heat to medium-high. When the onions start to sizzle, reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the cinnamon, cumin, ginger, and turmeric and stir to coat the onions with the spices. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 15 minutes.
2
Add the eggplants and a couple pinches of salt to the pot and stir to thoroughly combine with the onions. Cover and increase the heat to medium. Cook, stirring every few minutes, until the eggplant is softened and its volume has shrunk in half, about 15 minutes.
Add the eggplants and a couple pinches of salt to the pot and stir to thoroughly combine with the onions. Cover and increase the heat to medium. Cook, stirring every few minutes, until the eggplant is softened and its volume has shrunk in half, about 15 minutes.
3
Add the almond milk and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.
Add the almond milk and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 minutes.
4
While the soup simmers, reconstitute the raisins. In a small bowl, combine the raisins and vinegar. Add enough warm water to cover by about ¼ inch. Set aside.
While the soup simmers, reconstitute the raisins. In a small bowl, combine the raisins and vinegar. Add enough warm water to cover by about ¼ inch. Set aside.
5
Working in batches if necessary, pour the soup into a blender. Add the yogurt and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Ladle into bowls and garnish with the sliced almonds, vinegar-soaked raisins, and dollops of Greek yogurt.
Working in batches if necessary, pour the soup into a blender. Add the yogurt and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Ladle into bowls and garnish with the sliced almonds, vinegar-soaked raisins, and dollops of Greek yogurt.
Japanese Sweet Potato and Cauliflower Frittata
JAPANESE SWEET POTATO AND CAULIFLOWER
FRITTATA
SERVES 6 TO 8
FRITTATA
SERVES 6 TO 8
Frittatas allow you to turn a pile of vegetables into a really filling meal, so this is a great dish to have in your bag of tricks. (This is an extra-large frittata, but trust me—you want leftovers. Frittata cold out of the fridge is just as good as hot out of the pan.) I like the vegetables to dominate more than the egg, and this particularly hearty version gets its flavor from pan-roasting cauliflower and Japanese sweet potatoes until they’re soft and caramelized. As far as technique, I find that the conventional route of starting a frittata on the stovetop and finishing it in the oven is a total sham. Either it comes out overcooked and dense, or the top doesn’t brown. I cook a frittata start-to-finish on the stove, so it gets nicely browned on both sides. It’s a little trickier (and some would say more stressful) because you have to flip it and slip it back into the pan, but that extra effort is rewarded with a more flavorful, lighter frittata. If you’re nervous about it, do the flip over the sink. Once you ace this technique, you can improvise the filling based on the vegetables you have around.
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Japanese sweet potatoes are burgundy-skinned beauties with off-white flesh that tastes more like a chestnut than a sweet potato. I prefer the drier flesh of the Japanese variety here, but you can swap in regular sweet potatoes.
7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 small head cauliflower, cut into small florets (about 3 cups)
2 Japanese sweet potatoes, halved lengthwise and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices (about 3 cups)
1 medium white onion, sliced (about 1½ cups)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 large eggs
¼ cup whole milk
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over high heat until it starts to smoke. Combine the cauliflower and sweet potatoes in a tightly packed layer to fill the bottom of the pan. Scatter the onion on top and cook for 1 minute without stirring.
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over high heat until it starts to smoke. Combine the cauliflower and sweet potatoes in a tightly packed layer to fill the bottom of the pan. Scatter the onion on top and cook for 1 minute without stirring.
2
Reduce the heat to medium-high. Add 2 big pinches of salt and a few grinds of pepper and cook for 3 minutes. Stir the vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are nicely browned, about 7 minutes. If the pan seems dry, add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring a couple of times, until the vegetables have softened, about 15 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium-high. Add 2 big pinches of salt and a few grinds of pepper and cook for 3 minutes. Stir the vegetables and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are nicely browned, about 7 minutes. If the pan seems dry, add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring a couple of times, until the vegetables have softened, about 15 minutes.
3
While the filling cooks, make the base. In a bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, Parmesan, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
While the filling cooks, make the base. In a bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, Parmesan, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.
4
Uncover the skillet and add salt and pepper to taste. Move the vegetables around so they fill the pan in an even layer. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil around the perimeter of the pan. Crank the heat to high.
Uncover the skillet and add salt and pepper to taste. Move the vegetables around so they fill the pan in an even layer. Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil around the perimeter of the pan. Crank the heat to high.
5
Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables. After 1 minute, reduce the heat to medium. As the egg starts to set, use a spatula to pull the edges away from the rim of the pan and poke holes across the center, letting raw egg fill in around the cooked vegetables. Adjust the heat, if needed, so the eggs are lightly bubbling. Continue to gently lift the edges of the frittata and tilt the pan, so uncooked egg seeps underneath. Cook until there’s almost no runny egg, 5 to 6 minutes.
Pour the egg mixture over the vegetables. After 1 minute, reduce the heat to medium. As the egg starts to set, use a spatula to pull the edges away from the rim of the pan and poke holes across the center, letting raw egg fill in around the cooked vegetables. Adjust the heat, if needed, so the eggs are lightly bubbling. Continue to gently lift the edges of the frittata and tilt the pan, so uncooked egg seeps underneath. Cook until there’s almost no runny egg, 5 to 6 minutes.
6
Prepare to flip by running a spatula around the edges, loosening the egg from the pan. To make sure it is not sticking, give the pan a shake. The frittata should move as a whole. (If it sticks, remove the pan from the heat and let it set for 3 minutes, then use the spatula to loosen the frittata from the pan.)
Prepare to flip by running a spatula around the edges, loosening the egg from the pan. To make sure it is not sticking, give the pan a shake. The frittata should move as a whole. (If it sticks, remove the pan from the heat and let it set for 3 minutes, then use the spatula to loosen the frittata from the pan.)
7
Put a large plate over the skillet and turn the frittata over onto the plate. Slide the frittata back into the pan and cook the other side over medium heat for 2 minutes. Run the spatula around the edge again and flip the frittata onto a serving plate. Let it rest for 5 minutes. Cut and serve warm or at room temperature.
Put a large plate over the skillet and turn the frittata over onto the plate. Slide the frittata back into the pan and cook the other side over medium heat for 2 minutes. Run the spatula around the edge again and flip the frittata onto a serving plate. Let it rest for 5 minutes. Cut and serve warm or at room temperature.
MY MOM IS FROM TUSCANY, LAND
of the “bean-eaters” in Italy, so I grew up eating loads of beans. Cannellini, chickpeas, and borlotti (cranberry beans) are key players in just about every classic Tuscan meal, so I naturally lean toward these. Good thing too, since eating the occasional bowl of warm, just-cooked beans or ribollita was one of the few things I actually did right in my old diet. Beans pack a punch of fiber, and they’re a great nonmeat source of protein. Factor in that they’re affordable, readily available, and versatile, and you’ve got one of the most perfect foods.
of the “bean-eaters” in Italy, so I grew up eating loads of beans. Cannellini, chickpeas, and borlotti (cranberry beans) are key players in just about every classic Tuscan meal, so I naturally lean toward these. Good thing too, since eating the occasional bowl of warm, just-cooked beans or ribollita was one of the few things I actually did right in my old diet. Beans pack a punch of fiber, and they’re a great nonmeat source of protein. Factor in that they’re affordable, readily available, and versatile, and you’ve got one of the most perfect foods.
They’ve gone from making an occasional appearance to being a full-time kitchen staple. My wife, Amanda, makes a pot of beans most Sundays, changing up the bean of choice each time, and we turn them into various dishes—salads, soups, dips, you name it. I treat them as more than simple fillers—their creamy texture, robust flavor, and richness are often the focus of my meals. A pot of lentils leads to a soul-warming
Lentil Soup with Tomato and Tuscan Kale
, chickpeas become a
main-course salad
punched up with white anchovies and pickled onions, and velvety cannellini beans get an
ucceletto
treatment of tomatoes and Tuscan herbs.
Lentil Soup with Tomato and Tuscan Kale
, chickpeas become a
main-course salad
punched up with white anchovies and pickled onions, and velvety cannellini beans get an
ucceletto
treatment of tomatoes and Tuscan herbs.
Many of the recipes here make a large quantity. My thinking on beans and bean soups is that if you’re going to make them, make a big batch. Unlike meat or fish, very little extra effort is needed to make a bean recipe that serves 8 instead of 4. Also, beans are great freezer food. Generally, I find that the simple process of
cooking dried beans results in far better flavor and denser texture than canned beans because you control the salt and cooking time. Canned beans are typically overcooked to the point of falling apart, and that thick, goopy canned bean slime is nasty. Any time you use store-bought beans, buy the low-sodium or no-salt-added varieties, drain, and thoroughly rinse the beans before cooking. Getting on the dried bean bandwagon calls for conquering any intimidation or confusion, so here are my tips to turning out a killer pot of beans:
cooking dried beans results in far better flavor and denser texture than canned beans because you control the salt and cooking time. Canned beans are typically overcooked to the point of falling apart, and that thick, goopy canned bean slime is nasty. Any time you use store-bought beans, buy the low-sodium or no-salt-added varieties, drain, and thoroughly rinse the beans before cooking. Getting on the dried bean bandwagon calls for conquering any intimidation or confusion, so here are my tips to turning out a killer pot of beans:
1
Start with fresh, good-quality dried beans. The fresher they are, the faster and more evenly they cook. It’s almost impossible to identify a fresh dried bean, so it’s helpful to look into the habits of the brand or supplier of beans you buy. I like Rancho Gordo because they grow and dry their beans in small quantities and include an expiration date.
Start with fresh, good-quality dried beans. The fresher they are, the faster and more evenly they cook. It’s almost impossible to identify a fresh dried bean, so it’s helpful to look into the habits of the brand or supplier of beans you buy. I like Rancho Gordo because they grow and dry their beans in small quantities and include an expiration date.
2
When soaking beans overnight, be sure to cover the beans with water so there are several inches of liquid above the beans. If some beans are sticking out above the waterline the next day, it’s a sign that not enough water was added, and there’s no way the beans are going to cook evenly.
When soaking beans overnight, be sure to cover the beans with water so there are several inches of liquid above the beans. If some beans are sticking out above the waterline the next day, it’s a sign that not enough water was added, and there’s no way the beans are going to cook evenly.
3
Cook beans in a heavy pot covered by an inch or so of water. Heavy pots diffuse heat better so your beans will cook more evenly.
Cook beans in a heavy pot covered by an inch or so of water. Heavy pots diffuse heat better so your beans will cook more evenly.
4
Think of the liquid you cook beans in as a blank canvas. Water and stock work equally well. If you want to flavor the liquid, throw in half an onion or some garlic cloves, chopped carrot or celery.
Think of the liquid you cook beans in as a blank canvas. Water and stock work equally well. If you want to flavor the liquid, throw in half an onion or some garlic cloves, chopped carrot or celery.
5
The big debate is when to salt the beans. I used to do it when the beans were almost done cooking, but now I soak the dried beans in salted water. As the beans absorb the liquid, they take in the salt. This method gives you a superior pot of evenly salted, flavorful beans with soft skins.
The big debate is when to salt the beans. I used to do it when the beans were almost done cooking, but now I soak the dried beans in salted water. As the beans absorb the liquid, they take in the salt. This method gives you a superior pot of evenly salted, flavorful beans with soft skins.
6
Store cooked leftover beans in some of their cooking liquid—enough to barely cover them. This prevents the skins from drying out and cracking. Also, several recipes here call for some of the bean cooking liquid, which acts as a flavorful thickener.
Store cooked leftover beans in some of their cooking liquid—enough to barely cover them. This prevents the skins from drying out and cracking. Also, several recipes here call for some of the bean cooking liquid, which acts as a flavorful thickener.
Whenever I cook a pot of beans, I always have a bowl as soon as they’re done. There’s nothing like a bowl of just-cooked chickpeas dressed while they’re hot with really good olive oil, sea salt, and freshly cracked black pepper. I highly recommend trying this with any bean or lentil you make. Bean nirvana.
POT OF BEANS
MAKES 6 CUPS
MAKES 6 CUPS
Making homemade beans is hardly laborious; it just requires a little foresight. Some say it’s unnecessary, but I find soaking dried beans before cooking them is essential to a shorter cooking time (not to mention easing beans’ notoriously noisy side effect). An overnight soak is ideal, but the quick-soak method noted here is good in a pinch. The time it takes to cook a pot of beans can take anywhere from 45 minutes to upwards of 2 hours depending on the type, size, and age of the bean you’re cooking (chickpeas in particular take a while). The method will always be the same, though, so you can use this recipe for any variety of dried bean. I just happen to use cannellini beans the most, in no small part because of
Ucceletto Beans
and
Ribollita
.
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Ucceletto Beans
and
Ribollita
.
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My quick-soak method: Add the beans to a large pot and cover them with water by 4 inches. Salt the water, cover the pot, and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as it reaches a boil, remove from the heat and let sit for 1 hour covered. Drain and rinse.
1 pound dried cannellini beans (or any dried bean)
Fine sea salt
1 head garlic
1 bunch fresh sage
Extra virgin olive oil (optional)
Freshly cracked black pepper (optional)
1
Add the beans to a large bowl and cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Add enough salt so the water tastes like the sea. Let sit overnight (at least 12 hours) at room temperature.
Add the beans to a large bowl and cover them with water by at least 4 inches. Add enough salt so the water tastes like the sea. Let sit overnight (at least 12 hours) at room temperature.
2
The next day, drain the beans, put them in a very large pot, and add enough water to cover them by about 2 inches. Remove any loose, papery outer layers from the head of garlic and cut off about ¼ inch of the stem end to expose the cloves. Add the head of garlic and the sage to the pot.
The next day, drain the beans, put them in a very large pot, and add enough water to cover them by about 2 inches. Remove any loose, papery outer layers from the head of garlic and cut off about ¼ inch of the stem end to expose the cloves. Add the head of garlic and the sage to the pot.
3
Cook the beans gently over medium heat, adjusting the temperature so the water bubbles just occasionally. When the beans soften, but are not quite tender, give them a taste. If more salt is needed, add it now so the beans will finish cooking in properly seasoned liquid. Continue cooking until they are soft and creamy. The time will vary, but I start checking them after 30 minutes and generally find that they’re done somewhere between 45 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes.
Cook the beans gently over medium heat, adjusting the temperature so the water bubbles just occasionally. When the beans soften, but are not quite tender, give them a taste. If more salt is needed, add it now so the beans will finish cooking in properly seasoned liquid. Continue cooking until they are soft and creamy. The time will vary, but I start checking them after 30 minutes and generally find that they’re done somewhere between 45 minutes and 1 hour 30 minutes.
4
Serve the beans warm with olive oil and black pepper. Or cool the beans, put them in a glass storage container, and add enough of their cooking liquid to fully submerge them. Store them in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Serve the beans warm with olive oil and black pepper. Or cool the beans, put them in a glass storage container, and add enough of their cooking liquid to fully submerge them. Store them in the refrigerator for up to a week.
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