A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great (14 page)
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Authors: Marco Canora,Tammy Walker
BOOK: A Good Food Day: Reboot Your Health with Food That Tastes Great
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ROASTED BROCCOLI WITH HAZELNUTS AND
PECORINO
SERVES 4
PECORINO
SERVES 4
Most people typically think of boiling or steaming broccoli, or they have visions of tragic, overcooked broccoli that’s limp and awful, and they avoid it altogether. But I think you don’t know just how great broccoli can be until you roast it. It becomes tender, while retaining some crispness, and caramelizes to the point where the florets’ edges are toasted and crunchy. Toss in hazelnuts, shavings of Pecorino Romano, and a squeeze of lemon, and roasted broccoli becomes addictive. Note to America’s parents and school cafeterias: Roast the broccoli and the kids will eat it! The stems are every bit as flavorful and nutritious as the florets, so I like to cut broccoli into spears with a couple of inches of stem on each.
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1 bunch broccoli
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped hazelnuts
Juice of ½ lemon
Chunk of Pecorino Romano cheese, for serving
1
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
2
Cut the broccoli into chunky florets with a few inches of stalk attached.
Cut the broccoli into chunky florets with a few inches of stalk attached.
3
In a large bowl, toss the broccoli with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Spread the broccoli in a single layer on the baking sheet and roast until the edges of the florets are beginning to brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle the hazelnuts over the top and roast for 5 minutes more.
In a large bowl, toss the broccoli with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Spread the broccoli in a single layer on the baking sheet and roast until the edges of the florets are beginning to brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle the hazelnuts over the top and roast for 5 minutes more.
4
While the florets are still hot, transfer the broccoli and hazelnuts to a serving bowl and toss with the lemon juice, the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and shaved Pecorino.
While the florets are still hot, transfer the broccoli and hazelnuts to a serving bowl and toss with the lemon juice, the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, and shaved Pecorino.
LACTO-FERMENTED
CARROTS AND
GINGER
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
CARROTS AND
GINGER
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
Tart and salty with a zing from ginger, I can’t get enough of this as a condiment for sandwiches, burgers, and anything spicy. When I stop myself from eating it straight out of the jar, I use a cup of it to make a tangy
vinaigrette
for salads. The steps seem long, but the process is pretty straightforward, and naturally occurring good bacteria do most of the work. The key to fermenting success is keeping oxygen exposure to a minimum: The good bacteria hate air, so the carrots and ginger should be fully covered with brine throughout the entire process. Otherwise, mold can develop and spoil the ferment. Faint hissing and popping noises are completely normal, as is the thin, white film that may form on the surface—that’s just the friendly probiotics at work.
▪
vinaigrette
for salads. The steps seem long, but the process is pretty straightforward, and naturally occurring good bacteria do most of the work. The key to fermenting success is keeping oxygen exposure to a minimum: The good bacteria hate air, so the carrots and ginger should be fully covered with brine throughout the entire process. Otherwise, mold can develop and spoil the ferment. Faint hissing and popping noises are completely normal, as is the thin, white film that may form on the surface—that’s just the friendly probiotics at work.
▪
2 pounds carrots, scrubbed and top ends trimmed
¼ pound fresh ginger, peeled
2 tablespoons fine sea salt
1
In a food processor or on a box grater, shred the carrots and ginger. Combine the shredded vegetables and salt in a large bowl. Knead the mixture like dough, pressing and squeezing it for about 3 minutes to release the natural juices from the carrots and create the brine.
In a food processor or on a box grater, shred the carrots and ginger. Combine the shredded vegetables and salt in a large bowl. Knead the mixture like dough, pressing and squeezing it for about 3 minutes to release the natural juices from the carrots and create the brine.
2
Transfer the vegetables and juice to a 2-quart wide-mouth glass jar. Pack the carrots and ginger down into the jar as tightly as possible, using a meat tenderizer or your fist, until the liquid is at least ¼ inch above the carrots. If needed, add a bit of salted water to make sure the vegetables are covered. (There should also be at least 1 inch of space between the top of the liquid and the top of the jar, in case there’s spillover during the ferment.) Using a rubber spatula, brush down any bits of carrot or ginger that are stuck to the sides of the jar.
Transfer the vegetables and juice to a 2-quart wide-mouth glass jar. Pack the carrots and ginger down into the jar as tightly as possible, using a meat tenderizer or your fist, until the liquid is at least ¼ inch above the carrots. If needed, add a bit of salted water to make sure the vegetables are covered. (There should also be at least 1 inch of space between the top of the liquid and the top of the jar, in case there’s spillover during the ferment.) Using a rubber spatula, brush down any bits of carrot or ginger that are stuck to the sides of the jar.
3
Weight down the shredded vegetables in the brine by placing a small circular plastic lid directly on top of them. Place a small saucer over the mouth of the jar. (Using a saucer instead of screwing on the jar’s lid allows the gasses produced by the fermentation process to have a way out.)
Weight down the shredded vegetables in the brine by placing a small circular plastic lid directly on top of them. Place a small saucer over the mouth of the jar. (Using a saucer instead of screwing on the jar’s lid allows the gasses produced by the fermentation process to have a way out.)
4
Set aside at room temperature away from direct sunlight to ferment. Keep an eye on it for the first day, checking to make sure the vegetables are still fully submerged. If they’re peeking above the liquid, add salted water by the tablespoon until the vegetables are submerged again (avoid stirring up the brine since this could introduce air). Ferment for 5 to 10 days—start your daily tasting on day 5. Once the carrots and ginger reach a level of tangy sourness you like, remove the weight from inside the jar, screw on a lid, and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for months in the fridge.
Set aside at room temperature away from direct sunlight to ferment. Keep an eye on it for the first day, checking to make sure the vegetables are still fully submerged. If they’re peeking above the liquid, add salted water by the tablespoon until the vegetables are submerged again (avoid stirring up the brine since this could introduce air). Ferment for 5 to 10 days—start your daily tasting on day 5. Once the carrots and ginger reach a level of tangy sourness you like, remove the weight from inside the jar, screw on a lid, and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for months in the fridge.
THE PROBIOTIC POWER OF FERMENTED FOODS
You’ve heard of probiotics—you can’t watch TV, grocery shop, or otherwise live a day in America without seeing a food, pill, or beverage that promises the benefits of probiotics. Probiotics aid a healthy digestive system by restoring and maintaining a healthy balance of gut flora—the hundreds of different sickness-curing and sickness-causing bacteria that constantly battle it out in your gastrointestinal tract. When probiotics, a form of “good” bacteria, are abundant in your body, it’s harder for harmful bacteria to take over and make you sick. Those good guys can prevent digestive upset (burps, bloating, and worse) and support your overall immune system.
The most natural way to get the benefits of probiotics is through a variety of lacto-fermented foods. Yogurt, the probiotic poster child, is a fermented milk product, and health food joints are pushing a fizzy, fermented tea called kombucha. I happen to love fermented vegetables. I go for sauerkraut and its Asian cousin, kimchi—both are fermented cabbage—and I’m wild about the lacto-fermented ginger carrots from Hawthorne Valley Farm in New York, which inspired
my version here
.
my version here
.
Lacto-fermenting vegetables sounds like it would be a complicated process, and one that involves milk—neither is true. It’s basically vegetables in a salty brine left to sit out at room temperature so that beneficial lactic acid bacteria develop (“lacto” refers to
Lactobacillus
, the official name of the bacteria). Lactic acid is a natural preservative that prevents bad bacteria from invading food. Before refrigeration, traditional cultures relied on fermenting because it was the most practical way to extend their food supply. We now know that this process leads to the jackpot of probiotic benefits, so the incredibly simple and gratifying old-school preparation is gaining in popularity again.
Lactobacillus
, the official name of the bacteria). Lactic acid is a natural preservative that prevents bad bacteria from invading food. Before refrigeration, traditional cultures relied on fermenting because it was the most practical way to extend their food supply. We now know that this process leads to the jackpot of probiotic benefits, so the incredibly simple and gratifying old-school preparation is gaining in popularity again.
LACTO-FERMENTED
NAPA CABBAGE AND ONIONS
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
NAPA CABBAGE AND ONIONS
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
If the term “lacto-fermented” is throwing you off, rest assured you’re familiar with this one: It’s sauerkraut. Cabbage is the most common fermented vegetable and makes a great side dish for cooked meats or a condiment for rich stews. Caraway seeds are the traditional choice for sauerkraut, but you could also use cumin seeds, dill seeds, or celery seeds.
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1 large head Napa cabbage (about 3 pounds), thinly sliced
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fine sea salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
1
Discard any wilted outer leaves of the cabbage. Core and slice the cabbage into quarters, then thinly slice the cabbage and combine it with the onions, salt, and caraway seeds in a large bowl. Massage the mixture, pressing and squeezing it for about 3 minutes, so the salt pulls water out of the cabbage and creates the brine.
Discard any wilted outer leaves of the cabbage. Core and slice the cabbage into quarters, then thinly slice the cabbage and combine it with the onions, salt, and caraway seeds in a large bowl. Massage the mixture, pressing and squeezing it for about 3 minutes, so the salt pulls water out of the cabbage and creates the brine.
2
Pack the vegetables and any liquid released from the cabbage into a 2-quart wide-mouth glass jar. Press the cabbage into the jar with your fist until it’s submerged by about ¼ inch of liquid. (If needed, add a bit of salted water to make sure the vegetables are covered.) Weight the vegetables down in the brine by placing a small plate or circular plastic lid directly on top of the cabbage inside the jar. Cover the mouth of the jar with a small saucer. Set aside at room temperature away from direct sunlight to ferment.
Pack the vegetables and any liquid released from the cabbage into a 2-quart wide-mouth glass jar. Press the cabbage into the jar with your fist until it’s submerged by about ¼ inch of liquid. (If needed, add a bit of salted water to make sure the vegetables are covered.) Weight the vegetables down in the brine by placing a small plate or circular plastic lid directly on top of the cabbage inside the jar. Cover the mouth of the jar with a small saucer. Set aside at room temperature away from direct sunlight to ferment.
3
On the first day, check the ferment periodically to make sure the vegetables are still fully submerged. If they’re poking out of the brine, press down on the plate or lid until the cabbage is submerged again. Add salted water by the tablespoon, if additional liquid is needed.
On the first day, check the ferment periodically to make sure the vegetables are still fully submerged. If they’re poking out of the brine, press down on the plate or lid until the cabbage is submerged again. Add salted water by the tablespoon, if additional liquid is needed.
4
Start tasting the cabbage daily on day 5. Once it tastes sufficiently tangy to you, remove the weight from inside the jar, screw on a lid, and refrigerate. It will keep for months in the fridge.
Start tasting the cabbage daily on day 5. Once it tastes sufficiently tangy to you, remove the weight from inside the jar, screw on a lid, and refrigerate. It will keep for months in the fridge.
CREAM-FREE CREAMED CORN
SERVES 6
SERVES 6
When it’s in season, locally grown sweet corn is as good as gold straight off the cob. But for corn-based comfort food, creamed corn is unbeatable. To max out the corn flavor, skip the heavy cream and use the corn itself to provide creaminess. I puree half the kernels to release their natural sweet starches and use this corn “cream” to thicken a mixture of onions and whole corn kernels. It’s incredibly good.
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Here’s how I remove corn kernels from the cob without them flying around and ending up on the floor: Lay the cob on a cutting board and cut horizontally from the tip to the end, removing about three rows. Rotate the cob so it rests on the flat side, and remove three more rows. Continue rotating and cutting until all the kernels are removed.
10 ears white corn, shucked
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, diced
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons roughly chopped fresh basil
1
Cut the corn kernels from the cobs.
Cut the corn kernels from the cobs.
2
In a large high-sided skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add the corn kernels, another pinch of salt, and ½ cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is almost tender, about 7 minutes.
In a large high-sided skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the onion begins to soften, about 10 minutes. Add the corn kernels, another pinch of salt, and ½ cup water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the corn is almost tender, about 7 minutes.
3
Transfer half of the corn and onion mixture to a blender and process until smooth. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the corn puree. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Transfer half of the corn and onion mixture to a blender and process until smooth. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the corn puree. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
ROSEMARY
SWEET POTATO FRIES
SERVES 4
SWEET POTATO FRIES
SERVES 4
Moments after these fries come out of the oven, we’re plucking them off the pan by the handful. I honestly think they’ve never made it to a plate in our house, even when we double the recipe. Before you jump into this one, banish all notions of classic crispy deep-fried potatoes. Sweet potatoes have a higher water content, so they don’t crisp up the way regular potatoes do, but that’s exactly why I love them as baked fries. Some turn out super crispy all over, some are soft and a bit floppy, and others have the perfect crunchy, dark brown edges with tender centers. It’s the combination of all those irregular textures that makes these so good.
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Sweet potatoes are higher in fiber and lower on the glycemic index than regular potatoes, and their bright orange flesh signals a ton of the antioxidant beta-carotene, which converts to vitamin A in the body. The antioxidant activity in sweet potatoes is highest in the skin, so I don’t peel them.
1 pound sweet potatoes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with foil.
2
Scrub the potatoes and pat them dry. Halve each sweet potato crosswise, then lengthwise into sticks about ¼ inch wide (don’t be a slave to perfection here; roughly the same size is fine). On the baking sheet, toss the sweet potatoes with the olive oil. Add the rosemary and several pinches of salt and pepper and toss again to coat the fries.
Scrub the potatoes and pat them dry. Halve each sweet potato crosswise, then lengthwise into sticks about ¼ inch wide (don’t be a slave to perfection here; roughly the same size is fine). On the baking sheet, toss the sweet potatoes with the olive oil. Add the rosemary and several pinches of salt and pepper and toss again to coat the fries.
3
Bake for 20 minutes, then gently flip the fries with a spatula. (They will be soft and soggy, so be careful not to mangle them as you flip them over.) Rotate the pan and bake for 15 minutes. Stir once then bake for another 10 minutes or until the fries are nicely browned on the edges and tender in the middle. Loosen them carefully from the pan so you don’t rip the foil or the fries.
Bake for 20 minutes, then gently flip the fries with a spatula. (They will be soft and soggy, so be careful not to mangle them as you flip them over.) Rotate the pan and bake for 15 minutes. Stir once then bake for another 10 minutes or until the fries are nicely browned on the edges and tender in the middle. Loosen them carefully from the pan so you don’t rip the foil or the fries.
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