Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (17 page)

4
Turn the face to either side to make sure the color is well blended.

GEL BRONZER APPLICATION

This formula is sheer and can correct foundation if necessary, but it is a bit harder to blend than others. It works well on men.

1
Choose the color to enhance your natural shade.

Begin at the apple of your cheeks.

2
Gently apply bronzer to the cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin. Apply lightly. You can always add more.

3
Apply bronzer lightly to the areas around the lips, forehead, neck, and ears.

4
Blend with a clean hand. Add more bronzer if necessary.

Tip

Bronzers as Correctors

Some women have more color on their face and chest and less on their neck. Use bronzer to warm up the paler skin on the neck. For those with very red areas, sunspots, or rosacea, bronzers can be used to even out the skin tone.

Self-Tanner

Use self-tanners to add color to any area of the body including the face. It’s an easy way to mask cellulite and veins on the legs. On the face, self-tanner can brighten up a tired complexion. It can be difficult to decide which product to use so it’s important to test in a hidden spot before applying all over.

Self-Tanner Application

Prepare the skin.
Always apply self-tanner to clean, smooth, makeup-free skin. It is best to exfoliate first if there are any rough patches. Knees, elbows, and heels are often areas with coarse, dry skin.

Apply a light, even layer.
Wait for the color to develop, and then apply a light second coat for a deeper tan. It is easier to build color than to fix mistakes.

Do not forget to apply the product
to the neck and ears for a natural-looking result.

Wash your hands immediately
after using self-tanner. The product will stain palms and the skin between the fingers.

Wait ten minutes
after applying self-tanner to the face before applying any other makeup or getting dressed.

Most self-tanners take an hour or more
to develop into a “tan,” so plan ahead.

Troubleshooting: Dark or Streaky Self-Tanning Results

Fade overly dark color by exfoliating the skin in the shower with a washcloth or loofah. Then, thoroughly clean the skin with cold cream or baby oil. Some self-tanners can be removed with lemon juice. Fix streaks by applying an additional light coat of self-tanner on the lightest parts of the skin.

BLUSH

Blush is used to create a healthy, pretty look. Blush can also be used to create the dramatic contouring sometimes seen in fashion shows and the theater.

Pick a skin-type-appropriate formula that you find easy to use. Different formulas can be used, depending on the desired finish or time of year. For the most natural look, match the blush color to that of the cheeks when flushed from exercise. You can also pinch the cheeks and look at the tone; match that color. By holding several shades of blush next to the cheek, you will see which add a lift and can eliminate those that are too dull or orange. The right shade will add a pretty brightness to the face without looking obvious.

Technique: Pop of Color

Using two shades of blush, apply your natural color and then add a pop of a brighter color on top. The natural shade looks great at first, but often fades easily. The brighter shade alone is often great for evening, but too much of a contrast for every day. This layering technique offers natural brightness. When using a bronzer, skip natural color and layer the pop color on top. Using a natural shade on top of bronzer makes the cheeks look dirty.

Blush Formulas

POWDER
is the easiest formula to use. It blends easily and works on all skin types.

GEL
delivers sheer color, but blending is a bit more difficult. It works well for smooth skin.

CREAM
goes on smoothly and leaves a dewy finish, which is great for dry skin.

CREAM/POWDER
goes on as cream and dries to a long-lasting powder finish. It is best for normal skin.

CHUBBY PENCILS
are very portable and easy to blend. They are best for normal to dry skin.

CHEEK TINTS
are similar to gels. They go on sheer for a stained look and can be difficult to blend. Tints work only for smooth skin.

POT ROUGE
provides blendable color for normal to dry skin types. These products are usually creamy in texture and packaged in pots. They provide a sheer stain on the cheeks and medium coverage on the lips.

POWDER BLUSH APPLICATION

Powder is the easiest blush formula to use. Make sure your brush is totally clean, or it will affect your color choice.

1
Smile and apply the product to the apple of the cheeks.

2
Blend toward the hairline, then down to soften the edges.

3
Blend thoroughly, keeping the most product on the highest part of the cheekbones.

4
Step back and consider the results. Turn your head to each side. Your face should look absolutely natural and balanced. A powder puff or fingers can be used to soften and correct a heavy application.

Tip

Never use blush on the eyelids as it is too red and will make the eyes look sore and tired.