Culinary Vietnam (19 page)

Salt and pepper

Marinade

2 tablespoons minced shallots

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon juice squeezed from gingerroot

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/4 cup pineapple juice

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon five-spice powder

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1/3 cup Asian basil leaves

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 medium white onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

2 slices peeled gingerroot

1/2 cup chicken broth or water

1 small-to-medium pineapple, peeled, halved lengthwise, and cored (reserve the juice for the marinade and sauce)

2 teaspoons mild vinegar

1/2 cup cilantro leaves

Serves 4 to 6

Likely another French legacy, with a hint of Chinese influence as well, this dish is more popular in the south, where pineapples are plentiful, although I have also seen it in Hue and Hanoi. The tart sweetness of the pineapple plays against the fatty richness of the duck meat. By using the fresh pineapple juice, you will have the tenderizing benefit of the natural enzymes present in the fruit. The pineapple slices are traditionally seared in a pan to caramelize them slightly, but I like cooking them on the char grill whenever possible to add the extra dimension of a subtle smoky flavor. Serve with steamed rice, sautéed potatoes, or rice noodles with fresh herbs, and crisp vegetables or a salad to provide contrast.

1
Season the duck with salt and pepper, and place in a nonreactive pan. Mix all of the marinade ingredients together and add to the duck. Mix well, cover, and refrigerate for at least 3 hours and up to overnight.

2
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy pan and cook the duck pieces slowly until much of the fat is rendered and the skin is browned nicely.
NOTE:
Cook skin-side down mostly to avoid overcooking the meat. Pour off any excess fat and then add the onion and ginger. Stir until the onion has a bit of color, and then add the chicken broth and any reserved pineapple juice. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3
Slice half of the pineapple across into 1/4-inch-thick segments, juice, and strain the other half (yields about 3/4 to 1 cup juice). Brush the pineapple slices with the remaining oil and char-grill or pan-sear to caramelize slightly; set aside. Do not overcook.

4
Add the vinegar and the pineapple slices to the pan and cook 10 to 12 minutes more, or until the duck is tender. Remove from heat, skim off any excess fat, remove the ginger, and stir in the cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.

Grilled Five-Spice Chicken

Ga Nuong Ngu Vi Huong

Marinade

2 tablespoons minced shallot

2 tablespoons minced ginger

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons five-spice powder

1/4 cup chopped Asian basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons lime juice

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2-1/4-to 2-1/2-pound fryer chicken, cut into 8 or 9 pieces

Serves 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

Similar to the method for Five-Spice Pork Chops with the addition of basil in the marinade, chicken requires a bit slower and longer cooking. You could also use boneless chicken breast, but I prefer the bone-in chicken for flavor. Serve this with steamed rice, veggies, and some Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce and/or Salt, Pepper, and Lime Dipping Sauce.

1
Combine all of the marinade ingredients and let sit for a few minutes. Place the chicken pieces in a nonreactive dish and cover them with the marinade, making sure all of the meat has been coated. Cover and marinate for 1 to 3 hours.

NOTE:
If you marinate for more than 1 hour, refrigerate the chops and then remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.

2
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill to medium and cook chicken about 8 to 10 minutes on the first side and 6 to 8 minutes on the second, being careful not to burn. Rest a few minutes before serving.

Steamed Chicken with Mushrooms

Nam Dong Co Tiem Ga

1 inch peeled gingerroot, minced

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon fish sauce or soy sauce

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (optional)

Dash of salt

2 cloves garlic, minced

1-1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast and/or thighs, cut into bite-size pieces

6 ounces shiitake or other firm mushrooms, halved or quartered (about 6 to 8 good-size mushrooms)

2 to 3 scallions, cut diagonally into 1-inch segments

Chopped cilantro or Vietnamese coriander (optional)

Serves 4 as a main dish or 6 to 8 as part of a larger meal

Simple steamed meats and vegetables are often the center point of family meals in Vietnam. Served with a dipping sauce and some rice, this type of meal is easy to prepare with little fuss. This recipe adds a bit of Chinese flavor, and the mushrooms give it more depth. Reconstituted dried mushrooms could substitute for the fresh for an even deeper, concentrated earthy flavor. Pork or beef could also be used with a slight change in the cooking time.

1
Mix the first six ingredients together and then toss with the chicken, mushrooms, and scallions.

2
Place in a heatproof dish or bowl, cover tightly, and place in a covered steamer. Steam for 35 to 40 minutes, turn off the steamer, remove the lid, and wait a few minutes before removing the bowl with the chicken. Carefully uncover the bowl and arrange the chicken, mushrooms, and scallions on a serving platter. Pour the juices over the top and garnish with the cilantro, if desired.

Chicken Hotpot

Lau Ga

2-1/2-pound chicken fryer, cut into 8 or 9 pieces

3 quarts chicken broth

2 stalks lemongrass, lightly crushed and cut into 2-inch sections

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and then sliced into 3 pieces

4 to 5 star anise

5 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly smashed

3 tablespoons fish sauce

1 tablespoon rice or distilled white vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

2 potatoes, or 1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces

2 carrots, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces

6 to 8 medium mushrooms, halved or quartered

2 to 3 tomatoes, quartered

1 white onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

1 red or green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

1 bunch mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chard, or other greens, washed and large stems removed, then cut into 2-inch-wide strips

2 to 3 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stemmed and sliced

1/2 medium pineapple, skinned, cored, and cut into bite-size chunks

8 to 10 cilantro sprigs

Serves 4 to 6 or more as part of a larger meal

Lau is the name for the hotpot dish that is also sometimes called a steamboat. It is set in the middle of the table on a charcoal, gas, or electric burner and is filled with flavorful broth; various meats, seafood, vegetables, and fruits are placed in the almost boiling liquid to cook or finish cooking and add their flavors to the broth. Lau refers to the broth used, but the term has become synonymous with the dish. Lau restaurants are often concentrated in one area, like Phung Hung near the overhead train tracks in old Hanoi, where there are hundreds distinguished by their street numbers only, and alongside Truc Bach Lake. Hotpot is a social event where a number of diners share the same pot and participate in the cooking. Feel free to vary the vegetables listed in this recipe. Lau is often served with some rice to add the broth to, making a soup that finishes the meal. Noodles also make a nice accompaniment to hotpot dishes.

1
Rinse the chicken pieces and place in a pot with cool broth. Bring to a boil for 10 minutes, then remove from the heat and skim off any scum that forms on the top.