Culinary Vietnam (14 page)

Vietnamese Beef Stew with Star Anise and Basil

Bo Kho

1 tablespoon ground annatto seeds (achiote) or mild paprika

2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder, or 1 teaspoon curry powder and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon raw or brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white or black pepper

2 to 2-1/2 pounds boneless beef chuck or beef stew meat, cut into 1-1/2-inch cubes

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chopped shallots or scallions

1/2 cup seeded and finely diced tomatoes, or 1/3 cup tomato puree

3-1/2 cups beef broth, chicken broth, or water

2 tablespoons fish sauce (Vietnamese is preferred)

2 tablespoons soy sauce

6 to 8 (3-inch) pieces lemongrass, lightly crushed; if not available, add 2 tablespoons lime juice at the end of cooking

1 or 2 red serrano or jalapeño chiles, chopped; or 1 to 2 teaspoons hot chile flakes

3 to 4 whole star anise, lightly toasted

1/2 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds

1/2 cup coarsely chopped Asian basil leaves

1/2 cup very thinly sliced onion

1/4 cup whole cilantro leaves

Serves 6

This fairly simple recipe is a great example of Vietnamese comfort food. Often served steaming hot at breakfast along with crusty, freshly baked baguette, Bo Kho also makes a great dinner for a cold winter’s night when served over noodles or steamed jasmine rice. The rich gravy-like broth is satisfying, and the aromatic star anise, basil, cilantro, and lemongrass give it a faintly exotic aroma and that characteristic Vietnamese fresh quality. Sometimes potatoes are added along with the carrots and, in the south, whole eggs are often simmered in the stew during the last few minutes of cooking. This is a one-pot dish that is traditionally cooked in terra-cotta pots, but any heavy skillet, large pot, or Dutch oven that you have will work just fine.

1
Mix the annatto, five-spice powder, sugar, salt, and pepper together; toss with the beef.

2
Heat the oil to very hot in a heavy skillet or pot and brown the meat well. Add the ginger, garlic, and shallots, and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomato and stir-fry for 2 minutes more while stirring.

3
Pour in the broth; add the fish sauce, soy sauce, lemongrass, chiles, and star anise. Bring to a boil and reduce to a high simmer.

4
Cook for 40 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fork-tender. Add the carrots and cook for 15 minutes more, or until tender. The liquid should have a light gravy-like consistency. Taste for salt and add more fish or soy sauce if needed. Remove the lemongrass, if desired, and stir in the basil. Serve topped with onion and cilantro.

Sliced Beef with Asparagus

Thit Bo Mang Tay

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 tablespoon cornstarch

12 ounces beef, chuck, sirloin, or round steak, thinly sliced and cut into bite-size pieces

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and sliced into 3 smaller pieces

2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced

2 teaspoons minced shallots

1 pound asparagus, woody stem ends removed and the remaining tender part cut into 1-inch sections

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

1 tablespoon beef both, chicken broth, or water

Serves 2 as a main dish or 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

A Chinese-style dish with French-introduced asparagus, this is a true fusion food. I had this at a small restaurant in Hue, and it was simply delicious. Some other vegetables like broccoli or green beans could be substituted here. Serve it with jasmine rice or some noodles.

1
Mix the soy sauce, fish sauce, rice wine, sugar, pepper, and cornstarch in a bowl until smooth. Mix in the beef slices until well coated and marinate 15 minutes.

2
Heat the oil in a wok. Add the ginger, garlic, shallots, and asparagus. Stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the asparagus is warmed through and tender with a little color around the edges. Remove from the wok with a slotted spoon and reserve.

3
Add the beef to the pan and spread it around the surface of the wok so that all of the pieces have contact with the oil. Stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the beef is cooked through. Add the reserved asparagus and ginger mixtures, and cook 30 seconds to warm through. Add the oyster sauce and broth, and stir well to coat. Remove from the wok and serve.

The People and Flavors of Ho Chi Minh

Everyone in Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon, as most locals and visitors call it, seems to be in business for themselves. Street vendors hawk food, drink, tourist trinkets, fruits and vegetables, clothes, jewelry, books, music, and electronics. Many homes double as businesses, with the street front access used as a café, restaurant, pharmacy, laundry, travel agency, office, mini mart, copy shop, clothing store, or whatever else they deem may be of interest to others.

The food in Saigon is nothing short of marvelous. It seems that everywhere you turn, there is a food option. Cafes, traditional restaurants, elegant French restaurants, bakeries, and modern “fusion” establishments seem to be on each block. On top of that, there are countless operators on the sidewalks, offering Pho, Banh Xeo, coffee and tea, smoothies (a Saigon specialty), soups, grilled meats, and seafood. Each evening, one street-side eatery has nearly 200 people sitting at small plastic tables and stools on one side of the street, with the kitchen on the other—all on the sidewalk. The fresh seafood that they specialize in is live in a tank just before cooking, and the quality and flavors are astounding. Other restaurant favorites in Ho Chi Minh City are the ones that cater to large groups of Vietnamese locals and seem to be the choice for birthday and other special occasion get-togethers. They seat hundreds and are gaudily arrayed with Chinese artifacts and neon lighting. They often specialize in char-grilled items and frequently have grill-at-the-table dishes on the menu. When dining at these establishments, your nose will be enticed by exotic aromas and your ears assaulted by loud music, the popping of wet towel bags, the strains of “Happy Birthday” sung in English, and the traditional Vietnamese toast of “Mot, Hai, Bac (1, 2, 3)!”