Is There a Nutmeg in the House? (52 page)

picnic food
44
,
53
,
75
,
201
,
254

pie fillings
287
kidney and spices
116
prune and apple
59
pilaff/pilau Kyriakou’s
167
Suleiman’s
5

piments pour viandes froides
58

pissaladière
235

pizza Genoese (bacon and fennel seed)
236
Ligurian (tomato and anchovy)
233
Neapolitan (tomato and mozzarella)
234
Provençal (onion and anchovy)
234
,
235

a pizza in the Armenian manner
(meat)
235

a pizza in the Roman way
(onion)
234

POACHED EGGS
127
and
see
164

pomegranate ice cream
288

pomegranate water ice or snow
288

POMEGRANATES PINK
285

pork fillet, marinaded and grilled
204
Lincolnshire chine
69
,
96
loin, spiced with green pepper
92
minced, in Armenian pizza
235

pork chops, spiced and grilled
184

pork chops with wine and green peppercorns
91

potato
67–9
,
70–73
in Spanish omelette
129
Italian pie
79
(pan) cakes
68–9
pie
73
,
79
roast in the style of buttered parsnips
115

pot-au-feu
29

poulet Robert
206

prawn kedgeree
157

prawn and melon cocktail
162

processed cheese
131

a Provençal pissaladière
235

Provence, cooking of
42
,
53
,
56
,
57
,
58
,
84
,
87
,
141
,
170–71
,
234
,
235

prunes and apples, for pie filling
59
and pumpkin tart
260
spiced
257
with sweet-sour cabbage
79

Pryme, Abraham de la,
The Diary
113
,
114

pumpkin and prune tart
260

quagliata
66–7

Quayle, Eric,
Old Cookery Books
266
,
269

A Queen’s Delight
(part of
The Queen’s Closet Opened
)
117
,
252

QUICHE LORRAINE
117
and
see
148

a quickly made loaf
225

quine conserve
240
relish, with candied peel
101
in grape must preserve
106

quince and honey sorbet
292

rabbit, in thickened soup
155

radicchio
46

Raffald, Elizabeth,
The Experienced English Housekeeper
251
,
266
,
271

ragu bolognese
139

raisiné
105

Raleigh, Sir Walter
252–3

raspberry and redcurrant granita
289

raspberry ice cream
275

ratatouille
57
,
58

redcurrant and raspberry granita
279
in raspberry ice cream
275

Reform Club, London – its kitchens
209–10

refrigerator ices
273

RELISHES OF THE RENAISSANCE
97
and
see
108

Renauld, Jules,
Les Hostelains et Taverniers de Nancy
121

Rey, J.,
The Modern Caterer’s Encyclopaedia
290

rice
142–3
,
157
and walnut stuffing for tomatoes
174
cooked moist
144
gratin with courgettes
56

rice and cucumber salad
203

rice (Arborio, Avorio)
143
,
149
Armenian dessert
258
green vegetable risotto
150
vegetable risotto
150

rice
(Arborio)
with cheese sauce
147

rice (Patna)
143
in chicken pilau
143
,
144
in crab or prawn kedgeree
157
in spiced kedgeree
157
with cheese sauce, for lobster
146

Richardin, Edmond,
L’Art du Bien Manger
120

ricotta pudding
259

rillettes d’oie
201

risotto
147–9
green vegetable
150
vegetable and shrimp
149

Rivington, Charles
188
,
195–6

Rivington, Septimus
196

roast capon
174

roast pheasant with chestnut sauce
175

rocket
46
,
47
,
48

Roden, Claudia,
A Book of Middle Eastern Food
181

Rogers, Judy 000

Romoli, Domenico,
La Singolare Dottrina
61

Rose, Giles
187

rosemary
59
,
84–6
,
255–6

Ross, Amanda McKittrick
15

LE ROUGE ET LE NOIR
57

rum and lemon sorbet
290

Rundell, Maria Eliza,
A New System of Domestic Cookery
250
,
265

Ruscelli, Girolamo,
The Secretes of Alexis of Piemont
239
,
241–2

rye bread ice cream
284

saffron
144

St Clouet, de
132
,
134–5

salad of cos lettuce
50

Salaman, Redcliffe N.,
The History and Social Influence of the Potato
68
,
71–3

salatina
46
,
48

salmon boiled
154
loaf
159

salsa
99

salsa alla marinera
140

salted and spiced bread strips or ribbons
227

sapore
99

sauce rémoulade
126–7

scallops with white wine and bacon
159

Scappi, Bartolomeo,
Opera (dell’Arte del Cucinare)
61
,
66
,
98–102
,
214–16
,
300

SCOFF GAFFE
15

Scotch oatcakes
156

Scotch pancakes or drop scones
156

Scotland, cooking of
153–6

Scott, Sir Walter,
St Ronan’s Well
153

Selden, John
109
,
110–11
,
113

Serres, Olivier de,
Le Théâtre d’Agriculture
72

Seville orange cream
256

Seville oranges
65

shrimp and vegetable risotto
149

simple beef broth
28

Smith, R.,
Court Cookery
188–9

smoked haddock in spiced kedgeree
157

smoked haddock soufflé
158

snow cream
85
,
195
,
197–98
,
256

soca
231

sorbet Edwardian
290
lemon and orange
290
lemon and rum
290
loganberry
291
mango
291
persimmon
291
quince and honey
291
strawberry and cream
289

sorrel in minestra with fennel shoots, borage and beet shoots
62

soufflé with smoked haddock
158

Soyer, Alexis
209–14
Culinary Campaign
213
The Gastronomic Regenerator
210
,
211

spaghetti alla bolognese
138

spiced baked carré of lamb
176

a spiced herb mixture to spread on baked gammon
96
,
185

spiced kedgeree
157

spiced lentil soup
33
,
34

spiced prunes
257

spinach and potato tian
55

Stefani, Bartlomeo,
L’Arte di Ben Cucinare
60–67

Stewart, Katie
148
,
149

Stobart, Tom,
Herbs, Spices and Flavourings
217

stock
23–8
,
52–3
,
177

stock cubes
17
,
18
,
23
,
24
,
27
,
31
,
52
,
148

strawberry compote with almond milk
253
cordial
252
cream or junket
255
dessert covered with frothed cream
255

strawberry and almond ice cream
278

strawberry and cream sorbet
289

strawberry granita
288

a strengthening meat
115

sugar cake of lemon and brown sugar
261
confections
240–41
Demerara
261
,
262
refining
242
to caramelise
243

Suleiman (cook to E.D. in Cairo)
5–6
,
168
,
272

sumac
65
,
235

SUMMER GREENERY
39

Suzanne, Alfred,
La Cuisine Anglaise
170

sweet almonds
100

sweet green pepper salad
44

sweet mustard
101

sweet potatoes
71–2
,
74

sweet-sour cabbage
78
with prunes
79

sweet-sour tomato and orange pickle
83

tagliatelle al mascarpone
139

TAKING STOCK
23

tarantella
299–300

‘tart stuff’, coloured
59–60
,
116–17

tart stuff that carries its colour black
59

Taste of Britain campaigns
69

Theuriet, André
120

Thompson, Gladys Scott,
Life in a Noble Household
197
,
238

three-minute tomato sauce
83

tian the dish
42–4
,
53–5
the pot
42
,
53

tian of courgettes
54

tian or gratin of courgettes, tomatoes and eggs
42
,
55

tian with spinach and potatoes
55

tian with tomatoes and courgettes
55

TIANS
53

to boil a capon or chicken in white broth with almonds
115