Is There a Nutmeg in the House? (51 page)

gratin of turkey in cream sauce
199

THE GREAT ENGLISH APHRODISIACS
70

green pepper and cinnamon butter
90

GREEN PEPPER BERRIES
88

green peppercorn and cream sauce for fish
93

green vegetable risotto
150

Grey, Diana (née Gwynne; sister of E.D.)
47
,
223

Grey, Johnny
11

Grey de Ruthyn
105
and
see
Kent, Countess of

Grigson, Jane,
The Observer Guide to British Cookery
68–70

Gwynne, H. A. (‘Uncle Taffy’)
301

Hamburg parsley
103

HAND
-
MADE MAYONNAISE
122

Haroutunian, Arto
179
,
258

harricock pye
191

herb mixture, spiced, to spread on baked gammon
96

HERBS
,
FRESH AND DRIED
87

HOME COOKING
67

honey and quince sorbet
291

hors-d’oeuvre
247–8

Howell, James
73

HOW PUBLISHERS LIKE TO HAVE THEIR CAKE AND EAT IT
12

how to make a Florentine
116

HOW VERSATILE IS RISOTTO
?
147

HUNT THE ICE CREAM
265

ice cream
5
,
265–9
,
272–4
almond
277
apricot
275
Elizabeth Raffald’s
271
chocolate
281
coffee
274
ginger
280
lemon
274
and Grand Marnier
278
made in the refrigerator
272–4
mint
280
orange and almond
278
raspberry
275
Hannah Glasse’s
270–71
strawberry and almond
278

ice wells
194

Imam Bayeldi
75

IN PESCOD TIME
…
I WENT TO GATHER STRAWBERRIES
252

intermesses
see
entremets

IS THERE A NUTMEG IN THE HOUSE
?
93

ITALIAN FRUIT MUSTARDS
102

Italian potato pie
79

Italian spice mixture
95

Jarrin, Alfred,
The Italian Confectioner
283
,
284

Jenkinson, Frances,
Ocklye Cookery Book
250–51

Jerusalem artichokes
53

JOHN NOTT
187

Johnstone, Christina Jane (pseud. Mistress Margaret Dods),
The Cook and Housewife’s Manual
152–6

Jouveau, René,
La Cuisine Provençale
58

Juanita (cook to Anthony Denney)
129–30

junket
1
,
37
strawberry
255

KEDGEREE
157

Kent, Elizabeth (Ruthyn) de Grey, Countess of
108–15
A Choice Manuall
111–18
see also
A True Gentlewoman’s Delight

kitchen equipment
7–9
,
62
,
132–4
,
280
see also
basons
;
tian

kitchen gadgets
94
,
130
,
227

KITCHENS AND THEIR COOKS
1

Kyriakou (cook to E.D. in Alexandria)
165–7

lamb boned loin, baked in a crust
177
carré, spiced and baked
176
cutlets, spiced and grilled
185
minced, in Armenian pizza
235
spiced, to stuff apples
179

Lamb, Patrick,
Royal Cookery
188

lamb’s lettuce
46

La Varenne, François-Pierre de,
Le Pastissier François
117

LEAF SALADS
45

leek: cock-a-leekie soup
155

leftovers abuse of
148–9
,
232
use of
79
,
116
,
198–201
,
236

Lehmann, John
12
,
13–14
, 000

Leilah’s yogurt soup
36

lemon and brown sugar cake
261

lemon and celery sauce
81

lemon and garlic sauce or marinade for grilled chicken
204

lemon and Grand Marnier ice cream
278

lemon and orange sorbet
290

lemon and rum sorbet
290

lemon ice cream
274

lentil soup, spiced
33
,
34

LETTER TO GEORGE ELLIOT
151
TO GERALD ASHER
299
TO JACK ANDREWS AND JOHN FLINT
168

lettuce and anchovy salad
162

Levy, Paul
16
and
see
Barr & Levy

Leyel, Hilda,
The Gentle Art of Cookery
4–5

Liebig, Baron Justus von
18–19
,
21

Liebig Company
Practical Cookery Book
20–21
Taking Stock
17–18

Liebig’s Extract of Meat
18–19
,
26

a Ligurian pizza or sardenera
233

Lincolnshire chine of salt pork
69
,
96

a loaf made by the extra slow method
226

lobster with cream sauce and rice
145

loganberry sorbet
292

loin of pork spiced with green pepper
92

Lombardy, cooking of
183

Longland, Priscilla (née Gwynne; sister of E.D.)
163
,
164
,
165

Lorraine
see
Alsace-Lorraine

Loseley
38

Luke, Sir Harry,
The Tenth Muse
153
,
291

‘Lumbard’ foods
104–5

Lune, Pierre de,
Le Cuisinier
286–7

macaronade
141

Macdonald & Co. (Publishers) Ltd
12–14

mace
95
,
258

MacLean, Captain Donald
67–8

THE MADEIRA ERA
293

madeleines
262

madeleinettes
263

Maggi
21–2

MAKING ICE CREAM
272

THE MAKING OF BROTH AND STOCKS
27

marrows
1
fried, with herb sauce
62

Martin pears
106

mascarpone
139

Massialot, François,
The Court and Country Cook
188
,
191
,
194
,
248–50

May, Robert
60
,
109
The Accomplisht Cook
59
,
85
,
86
,
116–17
,
187
,
196
,
265

mayonnaise
122–6

melon and prawn cocktail
162
and prune tart
261

Le Ménagier de Paris
103
,
239

Menon,
La Cuisinière Bourgeoise
254–5

milk, partridge stewed in
208
with mushrooms and celery
209

minestra alla veronese
141

minestra d’erba brusca e di boraggio e cime di finocchio e cime di bieta
62

minestra di finocchio
61

mint ice cream
280

Minton, John
13
, 000

MISTRESS MARGARET DODS
152

monkfish loaf
159

monosodium glutamate
23
,
24

Montaigne, Michel de
105

Morphy, Countess,
Recipes of all Nations
4–5

Morris, Helen,
Portrait of a Chef
213

mostarda
102–5

mostarda di Cremona
106

mostarda d’uva
106

moules à la ravigote
159

mulberry water ice
291

mushrooms with sautéed celery
77

mussels ‘à la ravigote’
159

natillas
279

Nerina, Zia
139

Nollekens, Joseph & Mrs
93–4

Normandy, cooking of
206

Nott, John,
The Cook’s and Confectioner’s Dictionary
187–96

nutmeg
94–5
candied
102

oatcakes
156

oeufs à la germaine et à la romaine
286
,
287

olive oil
75
,
125–6

Olney, Richard
300–301

O’Malley, Lesley
75
,
161
,
207

omelette, Spanish
129

ONE WILLIAM VERRAL
132

onions in ‘piments pour viandes froides’
59
in Roman pizza
234

orange and lemon sorbet
290
sweet–sour pickle, with tomato
83

orange and almond ice cream
278

orange ice cream
279

orange salad
50

ossi buchi Benedetti
181

THE OXO STORY
17

Palladius, Rutilius T. A.
102

pancakes potato
68–9
Scotch
156

panisse
231

parsley salad
49

parsnip and cress cream
31
cream, with green ginger and eggs
79

partridges stewed in milk
208
with mushrooms and celery
209

pastenak and cress cream
31

pears in grape must preserve
106
in mostarda
106

peperonata
58

pepper (Piper Nigrum)
88–90
green: and cinnamon butter
90
and cream, sauce for fish
93
to spice pork loin
92
with pork chops in white wine
91

pepper (sweet) green, in bohémienne
57
red, in ‘piments pour viandes froides’
59

A Perfect School of Instructions for the Officers of the Mouth
187

PERFUMED TOOTHPICKS AND TABLE
-
HOPPING BIRDS
214

Persia, cooking of
65
,
179
,
181
,
285

persimmon sorbet
291

petits fours
262

pheasant, roast
175

piccata
65