Making Artisan Cheese (3 page)

Other historical references to cheese are scarce until the time of the Greek and Roman Empires. One frequently cited example is from the
Odyssey
(Homer, 1184 BC), where a passage references cheese being made in the cave of the Cyclops. It is often speculated that this cheese is an early form of Feta, the cheese that is so closely associated with Greece.

The Roman Empire is often given credit for having a profound effect on the production and use of cheese as it spread its ideas and technology throughout its conquered lands. Along with amphitheaters and aqueducts, though not nearly as glamorous, it is safe to assume that cheese went where the Romans went. Cheese was so crucial to the Roman diet that the Emperor Diocletian (284–305 AD) set a maximum price for cheese, in an obvious attempt to curtail supply and price problems. A commonly cited mention of cheese was made by the Roman encyclopedist Pliny the Elder (23–89 AD), in his descriptions of the manufacture and uses of cheese.

It is impossible to know exactly what types of cheeses were made during ancient times, but one can certainly speculate. In this Mediterranean area of the world, with its temperate to hot climate, and lack of any natural refrigeration (such as caves), it is safe to assume that most of the cheeses were fresh and meant to be consumed soon after making.

The Middle Ages

Whereas Rome played a crucial role in advancing the widespread popularity of cheeses, so did Christianity—first through the spread of ideas and new food discoveries during the time of the Crusades, and then through actual pilgrimages to the Holy Land. But second, and most important to the art of cheese making, was the development of production technologies and cheese varieties in the monasteries and feudal states of Europe. Although the monastic movement played a significant role in the spread of Christianity, it also acted as a repository for knowledge. The monasteries played a crucial role in the advancement of agriculture and development of agricultural products in Europe: The best examples are wines, beer, and of course, cheese. As monks and nuns traveled throughout the communities from one nunnery or monastery to another, they undoubtedly brought with them the techniques of cheese making. It is interesting to note that there are types of cheese still produced today that were originally developed in monasteries. Some examples include Maroilles (from the Abbey of Maroilles in Avesnes, France), Port du Salut (from the Monastery of Notre Dame du Port du Salut in Laval, France), and Wenslydale (from the Rievaulx Abbey in Yorkshire, England).

During the Middle Ages, the feudal states throughout Europe were similar to the monasteries in that they were essentially closed communities. Lacking an efficient transportation system, residents were forced to rely on their own production of food. Within these states, people acquired specific agriculture-based skills, such as beer making, animal husbandry, and of course, cheese making. Their techniques for preserving milk as cheese were taught to future generations, thus creating regional specialties of cheese made from milk and flavoring indigenous to that particular region. Many of these particularities are found in cheeses today—they are called name-protected cheeses, carrying the designations of AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée) for France, DOP or DOC for Italy (Controlled designation of Origin), and DO (Denomination of Origin) or PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) for Spain.

Name-Protected Cheeses

Cheese has been a part of man’s diet dating back to some of the earliest civilizations. It is interesting to note that some specific cheeses have quite an interesting history of their own. Documented references to Gorgonzola, for example, date back to 879
AD
; Roquefort to 1070
AD
; and Emmental to 50
BC
. Although this is indeed impressive, it created a problem in the industrial age, starting at the turn of the twentieth century when cheese makers would call any blue cheese Gorgonzola because they knew it would sell better.

In an effort to preserve the integrity of foods, including cheese, the Stresa Convention was created in 1951, and ratified by France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Scandinavia, and the Netherlands. It was from this agreement that the appellations were formed. It is interesting to note that the United States was not a signatory to the agreement, which is why cheeses, such as Parmesan, Gorgonzola, and Romano, and wines, such as Champagne, could be produced under those names for many years without rebuke from the European countries. Although this agreement is still observed, there continue to be U.S. producers of the above cheeses and wine.

What’s in a Name?

When you consider the names of particular cheeses, you can often discover the regions of the world where they were developed. In some instances, they are named for a particular geographic region, such as Emmental, which is a valley in Switzerland, or for a town name, as in Brie de Meaux (the town of Meaux is 12
1/2
miles [20 km] outside of Paris).

Other names come from vernacular language. Raclette is derived from the French word
racle
, which means “to scrape.” A round of Raclette was traditionally cut in half and heated in front of a fire. The melted layers of cheese were then scraped onto food, such as boiled potatoes accompanied by cornichons (tiny tart pickles). As for Reblochon, this name is derived from the French word
reblocher
, meaning “to milk again.”

Some cheese names go from the sublime to the ridiculous. Roquefort literally means “strong rock,” in reference to the limestone caves in Calambou, France, where the famous cheese is aged to this very day. The goat cheese Crottin’s name is derived from the word for “horse droppings,” aluding to its unique shape.

Many cheeses of European origin gained their names from the towns where they were first made, such as the creamy, velvet-textured Brie, which was named for the French town of Brie de Meaux.

Colonization

Cheese making came to North America via colonization in the 1600s. The regional differences reflected by the landscapes, animals, and cultures of the immigrants scattered across the continent influenced the kinds of cheeses made in early America. Immigrants were predominately British during the early stages of colonization, particularly in the Northeast United States. Even today, Cheddar remains the cheese
of choice in regards to consumption and production. Both New York State and Vermont are recognized for their production of Cheddars. It is also interesting to note that the first cheese factory in the United States was a Cheddar factory established in New York.

In the upper Midwest, immigrants were predominately German, Swiss, and Scandinavian, and the cheeses that continue to be produced there reflect that heritage. Wisconsin, which is a major cheese-producing state, makes a number of Emmentals. This type of cheese remains a staple for consumers throughout the region.

However, the immigrant cheese experience was not limited to the United States. In Canada, the cheese types reflect the country’s bicultural heritage. Canadian Cheddar is well known, and Quebec produces a number of cheeses that reflect French traditions. Perhaps the best known of these is Oka, a washed-rind cheese that traces its roots to a Canadian monastery from the town with the same name. Oka is often compared to the French Port du Salut. Even in Argentina, where a large influx of Italian immigrants arrived during the 1920s, a cheese culture developed. Two of the major cheeses produced in that country are Reggianito, a take on the Italian Parmigiano Reggiano, and Provoletta, a version of provolone.

Early Cheese Factories in America

It is generally agreed that the first cheese factory established in the United States was in 1851 in Oneida County, New York, by a farmer named Jesse Williams. The “factory” was simply his farm. He had a reputation for making exceptional cheese, so his neighbors would send him their milk so that he could make cheese for them. This first effort was followed by a group of Wisconsin dairy farmers who started a Limburger factory in 1868. Even today the quality of Limburger from Wisconsin is equal to that found in Europe.

The Industrial Revolution

At the turn of the twentieth century, the Industrial Revolution brought a dramatic change to life in the Western world. With the creation of large factories, much of the rural population shifted to cities, having a dramatic effect on many aspects of life—including cheese making.

Until this time, cheese making was always a craft practiced on a small scale in local communities. Large-scale production created a number of problems for the cheese maker, the first one having to do with milk. In the past when cheese makers wanted milk for making
cheese, they simply used milk from their own animals or those of a neighbor. But with the introduction of factories, the demand for milk quickly outstripped the local supply, which forced factories to find additional sources further away from the factory. Consequently, producers began pasteurizing their milk as a necessary sanitary precaution to assure cheese quality and safety for the extended trip from cow to factory. (For more on pasteurizing, see
page 30
.)

Another issue was the loss of regional variations of cheeses. In the pre-industrial age, cheese was a regional food with flavors that reflected the uniqueness of the local environment. As the seasons and grazing conditions changed, so too would the cheese. This was an accepted fact, and it was not seen as a flaw. But in factories, the emphasis was on profitability and consistency, and the quality of cheese suffered. One common complaint about modern cheese is that it is often boring and bland. That is not to say that all industrial cheeses are of poor quality and all small producers are exceptional, but cheeses produced in factories do tend to lack the certain effervescence that is often found in artisan cheeses.

The Rebirth of Artisan Cheese Making

So where do we stand today? Fueled by the communication revolution and the ease of international travel, people are exposed to and have developed a taste for the small artisan cheeses that have always been a part of Europe. Organizations such as the American Cheese Society in the United States and the Specialist Cheese Makers Association in the United Kingdom are helping to foster the development of small-production farmers and to introduce new varieties of cheeses. For the home cheese-making enthusiast, this could not be a better time to learn about cheese making.